Boilers... Hot water... What are best options

Boiler room

3 floors 17 rads.
I wanted to see the larger picture of that. Looks like a system that will never be lacking, here the radiators at the end of the chain up or even downstairs will not get above lukewarm unless turning down the radiators closest to the boiler

Are you thinking of installing Solar PV (electric) panels at some point?
If so a cylinder is a good idea, as you can have an immersion and a solar diverter that diverts electricity thats not being used and would be exported to the grid into the tank to make hot water for free.
Works well for us, I wouldn't be without a cylinder for this reason alone.

I was just thinking similar, Solar panel prices have dropped to fractions of the old cost
 
The only thing we haven't set up properly yet is for the HW to renew after midnight. I think it should only take something like 11-13 mins to heat up the tank from empty/cold. But we work funny hours and if the mrs has a bath nearer midnight. I have to be quick in the shower or it runs cold before i'm finished. Thats only becasue the HW shuts down at around 11pm. Thats just the way it was setup and we havent changed it. Not got round to it as we were going to fir Honeywell Evohome and I hate doing things twice.

2 years on STILL not got round to doing it.. I'll do a renovation thread at some point.
 
We've had two plumbers over now, not really sure where we stand.

Plumber one suggested removing cold water tank and expansion, replacing with unvented cylinder and pressurising the heating along with it. Also making sure we have a two way valve so we can have hot water and heating at same time.

Plumber two said pressure was fine on hot water, and recommended larger cold water storage and larger tank. In addition can fit a pump for the hot water feed for bathroom. However to fit a pump you need equal pressure from hot and cold feeds? So would put a new pipe run from the cold water tank in loft.

Two very different solutions to the same problem... The upside is I'll make them move the entire hot water tank, allowing me to make a brand new bathroom on ground floor, so that should cost offset the entire switchover.

What would you guys do?
 
After going from a combi to a cylinder. I would now always go with a cylinder.

How big is your house? How many people live there?
 
After going from a combi to a cylinder. I would now always go with a cylinder.

How big is your house? How many people live there?

It's a 4 bedroom townhouse, only me and partner live there but renovating it with the view of resale at a family.

Combi is a no go if we have two bathrooms due to hot water delivery. Pretty sure we need to keep the system boiler, it's only a two year old valiant with a 6m+ flue which would have cost a fortune!

Really is just a question of should we go with pressurised or make our existing tank and cylinder larger.

In my head it's less work to ditch the tanks and switch than it is to take out a tank, fit a new tank and run pipework down 3 floors!
 
Got a guy lined up now, going with an unvented UVGOLD2 180l, moving the tank to new location about 1.5m from where it currently is (which enables a full second bathroom to be installed), new feed in 22mm from mains (probably about 5m+ run through garage wall/ceiling downstairs), removing our old water tank/exp from loft and sorting out our kitchen gas piping.

All in is charging 2.4k, which I think is incredibly reasonable. Have checked him out on checkatrade etc, seems to be well regarded.
 
Boiler room


You need to check your flow via an unrestricted outlet. Taps can vary massively. This is our system. Complete re pipe etc. 3 floors 17 rads.

You wont need two boilers (unless its a big house) We also have secondary H/W circulation. this pumps hot water past all the hot water taps so as soon as we turn the hot water we get a second of warm water before its hot. Even at the far end of the house. This, I believe is more efficient in a big house or even a busy house, than having to draw off cooled hot water to get new hot water.

I cant really tell any difference in temp on the hot from the closest to the furthest so probably not that much of a temp diff between outlet and return.

that's a really nice install but oyu want to get them back to sort out the pressure relief discharges on that unvented tank as there are no tundishes fitted
 
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