Brake pads disappeared after about 200 miles

Craig321

Craig321

Craig321

Soldato
Joined
2 May 2004
Posts
19,950
Recently got some Goldfren S33 sintered and after about 200 miles they're gone, so much so that I was down to the metal on the way home today and more than likely ruined my rear disc - it's really rough now, not sure I'd want to run a new set of pads on there.

The goldfrens were from a reputable seller on eBay, cost about £15 which is the going rate, so don't think they were fakes, but you never can be sure I guess.

Any ideas what might have caused this? Bad fitting on my part? Is there anything I should be doing i.e bleeding the rear brake or having it looked at professionally?

Gutted as now this is going to cost me at least £80, discs aren't cheap :(

Also can anyone recommend some sintered pads and a new rear disc for a Honda Hornet F4 please? Don't really want to go Goldfren after this, even if it was my fault or something else that caused it.

Thanks.
 
There is no way genuine brake pads are going to disintegrate after only 200 miles, not unless your riding around with your brake jammed on, which ide hope you would've noticed.
 
That's just scarey, I'd investigate the source & report them before somebody gets ****** up.
I'd strip the rear caliper down as well just to be sure.
 
VoG said:
There is no way genuine brake pads are going to disintegrate after only 200 miles, not unless your riding around with your brake jammed on, which ide hope you would've noticed.
Click to expand...

Nope, nothing unusual when riding. Normal slight brake hissing noise when wheeling it about which has always been there on this bike (and most other bikes in my experience). Would have definitely noticed it when wheeling it about if it had been jammed on enough to cause this sort of wear, and of course when riding.

The bike has actually been better than ever in terms of power and smoothness since changing the chain and sprockets, so definitely not been riding around with them stuck on!
4T5 said:
That's just scarey, I'd investigate the source & report them before somebody gets ****** up.
I'd strip the rear caliper down as well just to be sure.
Click to expand...
What does stripping them involve? Anything difficult, or anything that needs special tools? It's not something I've done before.

I will be looking into them on eBay. They were one of these sellers with 10s of thousands of feedback and 99%+ so thought I would have been safe!
 
were they from m&p ???

ive been using goldfren now for about 6 or 7 years,on both my bikes and ive never had them wear out that fast

the ones in my zx6r atm are over a year old and I ride everyday/year round

ive always bought mine off m&p, nobody else

if you can find a cheap engineering firm you could get your rear disc skimmed,to take all the grooves out
 
Last edited:
Possibly either stuck piston or stuck sliders, though on many bikes you take the rear calliper off the sliders to replace the brake pads so you would have noticed this.

When you put the new pads in, did you pull back the dust cover and clean the piston thoroughly before pushing the piston back in? If there is a heavy build up of corrosion on the outside (due to a holed/leaking dust seal) then pushing the piston back without doing this can cause them to partially seize.
 
to tell if your rear brake is sticking on,ride around for few minutes then touch the disc,it should be very slightly warm but if its hot to touch then the pads are dragging (its normal for them to ever so slightly drag on the disc but not excessively so)

(if its really bad you'll feel it slowing you while riding around)
 
wazza300 said:
were they from m&p ???

ive been using goldfren now for about 6 or 7 years,on both my bikes and ive never had them wear out that fast

the ones in my zx6r atm are over a year old and I ride everyday/year round

ive always bought mine off m&p, nobody else

if you can find a cheap engineering firm you could get your rear disc skimmed,to take all the grooves out
Click to expand...

They weren't unfortunately, they were from an eBay seller with 100,000+ feedback so thought they would be ok.

ShakenNstirred said:
as said they cant be legit pads
is the pad is still on the backing plate
had it warn away or the pad broke off the metal backing?
Click to expand...

Completely worn away on both sides, no pads left at all. No sign of them braking off.

Dogbreath said:
Possibly either stuck piston or stuck sliders, though on many bikes you take the rear calliper off the sliders to replace the brake pads so you would have noticed this.

When you put the new pads in, did you pull back the dust cover and clean the piston thoroughly before pushing the piston back in? If there is a heavy build up of corrosion on the outside (due to a holed/leaking dust seal) then pushing the piston back without doing this can cause them to partially seize.
Click to expand...

I thoroughly cleaned around the piston and that area, then pushed them back in. Surely if they were sticking I would have noticed and they also would have felt terrible? They felt good up until the point when they weren't there anymore!

wazza300 said:
to tell if your rear brake is sticking on,ride around for few minutes then touch the disc,it should be very slightly warm but if its hot to touch then the pads are dragging (its normal for them to ever so slightly drag on the disc but not excessively so)

(if its really bad you'll feel it slowing you while riding around)
Click to expand...

Yup, that's the first thing I checked after the first ride with them, disc was slightly warm as you describe and everything felt good. If they were dragging excessively I definitely would have heard when wheeling it about as well.
 
how badly scored is the disc? if its mild then new pads will wear it off

if I were you id try another pair but from m&p this time and see how long they last,they are verygood pads imo,i wouldn't suggest them otherwise

chances are they were fake ones or they wouldn't have worn so fast,

I rate them as long lasting/as good stopping power as the ebc sintered pads

EDIT: ill grab a pic of my rear pads when I get chance 2morro,you'll see how much meat is left on them,put them in just before mot time which was around march I think
 
Last edited:
wazza300 said:
how badly scored is the disc? if its mild then new pads will wear it off

if I were you id try another pair but from m&p this time and see how long they last,they are verygood pads imo,i wouldn't suggest them otherwise

chances are they were fake ones or they wouldn't have worn so fast,

I rate them as long lasting/as good stopping power as the ebc sintered pads

EDIT: ill grab a pic of my rear pads when I get chance 2morro,you'll see how much meat is left on them,put them in just before mot time which was around march I think
Click to expand...

It's pretty bad, fingernail catching type stuff. I'll get a pic tomorrow but it doesn't look great.
 
Last edited:
Craig321 said:
I thoroughly cleaned around the piston and that area, then pushed them back in. Surely if they were sticking I would have noticed and they also would have felt terrible? They felt good up until the point when they weren't there anymore!
Click to expand...

Unless they were completely seized they wouldn't have felt much different, you don't get a lot of feedback from the rear brake anyway.

Did the pads move freely within the calipers? Poorly machined pads or a build up of corrosion within the caliper body can cause the pads to bind even if the piston is free.

The other thing that can cause binding brakes is if the master cylinder isn't returning fluid back into the reservoir, due to i.e. corrosion within the MC, partly seized rear brake pedal pivot or linkage, something bent.

Also, sounds stupid, but you haven't just started using a new pair of boots have you?
 
Dogbreath said:
Unless they were completely seized they wouldn't have felt much different, you don't get a lot of feedback from the rear brake anyway.

Did the pads move freely within the calipers? Poorly machined pads or a build up of corrosion within the caliper body can cause the pads to bind even if the piston is free.

The other thing that can cause binding brakes is if the master cylinder isn't returning fluid back into the reservoir, due to i.e. corrosion within the MC, partly seized rear brake pedal pivot or linkage, something bent.

Also, sounds stupid, but you haven't just started using a new pair of boots have you?
Click to expand...

Thanks, will check out all that just to make sure before putting the new pads and disc on.

Nope, no new boots. Only changed the rear brake pad as my previous organics were down to their limit after about 2 years.

I think I'll take the calliper apart today and try figure out what's going on, if anything. Don't want to spend £80+ just to have the same problem! I guess I'd need to bleed the brakes etc as well?

Thanks.
 
1415537083_img_20141109_112010.jpg


1415537107_img_20141109_112023.jpg


1415537122_img_20141109_112033.jpg


Callipers are off, piston is out and busy cleaning now.

Is there anything else I should be replacing while the thing is off and the piston is out? Washers maybe? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-CB-...pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item5aefc56af8

Not too sure where new washers like that would go as the caliper can't really come apart anymore.
 
Last edited:
theres a dust seal at the top of the piston bore,then the next one down is the actual seal

you might get away with taking them out carefully and cleaning them with brake fluid,and clean out the grooves where they sit with a small flat bladed screwdriver,take care not to scratch or score the caliper though

then replace them and the piston/bleed brake

your disc looks alright to me tbh

4ue2ck.jpg


i1cmwx.jpg


heres mine
 
Last edited:
Cheers. I guess I'm just a bit worried about how deep the grooves are now on mine compared to yours for example. I guess new pads will wear that layer off quite quickly though.
 
Yh I wouldn't be worried but if you wanna change it you can,same for new caliper seals,id only change them if you know your rear brake is sticking on
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom