BROKEN RADIATOR ?? !!!

CONSOLE_BUTCHER · 28 Apr 2017 at 17:53

Just got round to doing the finall set up on my pc before having to test the loop and found this on one of my rads , will this cause any leaks ? Its basically a dent in the fins on the rad like its been hit with something.

Will this be ok to use dispite the visual of it ?

BriT · 28 Apr 2017 at 18:06

The fins don't carry water so no it shouldn't leak. Just fill the rad with distilled water check just to be sure.

Akagi · 28 Apr 2017 at 18:07

Just visual, will be fine. If you are worried give it a leak test as said above

You could probably straighten them out a bit for aesthetic purposes and brush some black paint on too. I did that when mine got dinged.

bimbleuk · 28 Apr 2017 at 18:15

No problem at all. They are paper thin and very easy to deform. Just get a small flat screw driver and straighten them as much as poss. just be gentle. Turbulence is good for heat transfer!

CONSOLE_BUTCHER · 28 Apr 2017 at 18:31

I just tested it with some distilled water and tipped it upside down for about 20 seconds, nothing happened thank cluck.

Although when i looked at the water i wiped off of the stops , it had a slight orange colour to it . But if you guys reckon it good i,ll just have to test it when i finish.

Aberfala · 28 Apr 2017 at 18:36

Should be OK as it looks like it's just the fins but make sure you give it a good test.

If it was me I'd connect it into a working loop but outside the PC and run it for a few days so it heats up and cools down like normal use just in case the metal expanding and contracting shows up any problems.

CONSOLE_BUTCHER · 28 Apr 2017 at 18:48

After i bent the fins back as best i could just now, i couldnt spot any other damage to the rad and with the way they bent back into place so easily i doubt there would be any further damage.

I cant put it into another system because this will be the only one i have, im going to do the standard 24 hour loop test that has to be done, see where that takes it.

mickyflinn · 28 Apr 2017 at 19:49

I concur, its just bent fins and while it doesnt look nice will cause no leakage.

CONSOLE_BUTCHER · 28 Apr 2017 at 19:54

Now i have ran into another problem , the mounting screws for the cpu block are too long

mickyflinn · 28 Apr 2017 at 20:00

Any chance of a picture ?

CONSOLE_BUTCHER · 28 Apr 2017 at 20:05

Gonna have to use spacers that where included on the front and back where the backplate goes

CONSOLE_BUTCHER · 28 Apr 2017 at 20:16

Think i might need a new backplate and screws to go with ... hope it doesnt meen buying a new block.

BriT · 28 Apr 2017 at 20:28

What block is it?

CONSOLE_BUTCHER · 28 Apr 2017 at 20:30

Raystorm , i have had to use the plastic spacers included with the block to put room between the backplate and on the front of the board. Its gonna have to be a replacement backplate and screws.

Smffy · 2 May 2017 at 10:49

CONSOLE_BUTCHER said:
Raystorm , i have had to use the plastic spacers included with the block to put room between the backplate and on the front of the board. Its gonna have to be a replacement backplate and screws.

If you bought the right block it's usually got two sets of screws and sometimes multiple plates...

Looking at your various posts, generally you need to slow down a bit and research before you buy. Reading the instructions carefully is also advisable if you're not overly confident with WC.

Check the box for the shorter mounts.

CONSOLE_BUTCHER · 2 May 2017 at 10:55

Smffy said:
If you bought the right block it's usually got two sets of screws and sometimes multiple plates...

Looking at your various posts, generally you need to slow down a bit and research before you buy. Reading the instructions carefully is also advisable if you're not overly confident with WC.

Check the box for the shorter mounts.

I had checked the other screw set and they where to wide. The other plate had holes for a different socket.

Since my last post in the thread i have bought a replacement mounting kit , im still new to watercooling but im confident enough to do it . The things i have mentioned in the thread are what i guess is part of the learning curve.

Smffy · 2 May 2017 at 11:12

Unless you got the wrong socket block it should have mounts that fit - they shouldn't be too long as they screw through the board... Not having a go just by way of advice it's complicated so go slow and it won't cost you so much cash for errors/returns.

CONSOLE_BUTCHER · 2 May 2017 at 11:17

Smffy said:
Unless you got the wrong socket block it should have mounts that fit - they shouldn't be too long as they screw through the board... Not having a go just by way of advice it's complicated so go slow and it won't cost you so much cash for errors/returns.

Its the right block, the same as the one in my previous build that was done by OCUK , that was socket 1150. I understand what it is your saying though. I will admit im inexperianced but i have done similar things before. Im sure there will still be a lot of constructive critasism in the future.

Smffy · 2 May 2017 at 11:39

Ok, my raystorm screws were pretty tight fit so try them in the bracket off the board with some pliers to tighten (cloth over to avoid damage) if you feel like it... or just hang tight.

CONSOLE_BUTCHER · 4 May 2017 at 17:24

Smffy said:
Ok, my raystorm screws were pretty tight fit so try them in the bracket off the board with some pliers to tighten (cloth over to avoid damage) if you feel like it... or just hang tight.

Just got all the tubing done, about to test for leaks. Bought some needle nose pliers to put the new mount in with.