Build problems, mainly with graphics card

closeratio · 4 Nov 2007 at 22:01

yantorsen said:
to allow the bios to let you change fsb, volts etc, you have to press ctrl + F1 on the main bios screen menu.

Ahh well i didn't know that. I mean I can change the voltages without pressin control+F1, but I noticed extra RAM setting when you pressed control+F1. I'll see what I can do with that. I cleared the CMOS and it made no difference, I might update the BIOS soon, but I'm gonna try everythin else first. Thanks for your help anyway.

yantorsen · 4 Nov 2007 at 22:10

closeratio said:
Ahh well i didn't know that. I mean I can change the voltages without pressin control+F1, but I noticed extra RAM setting when you pressed control+F1. I'll see what I can do with that. I cleared the CMOS and it made no difference, I might update the BIOS soon, but I'm gonna try everythin else first. Thanks for your help anyway.

probly wise, after you reset the cmos, and you turned the PC on after, did it come up with a different message? it should have.

closeratio · 4 Nov 2007 at 22:37

Erm... no it didn't. A few of the settings changed for example it showed the big colourful gigabyte screen when I told it not to). But my previous setting were still there. And I didn't get a message.

However I did, after pressing control+F1, manage to get it to boot with manually controlled voltages. It's just when I ran cpu-z it was giving it stock, even though I specifically told the BIOS to give it 1.3. Somethin tells me that BIOS update will do me good lol

yantorsen · 4 Nov 2007 at 22:44

closeratio said:
Erm... no it didn't. A few of the settings changed for example it showed the big colourful gigabyte screen when I told it not to). But my previous setting were still there. And I didn't get a message.

However I did, after pressing control+F1, manage to get it to boot with manually controlled voltages. It's just when I ran cpu-z it was giving it stock, even though I specifically told the BIOS to give it 1.3. Somethin tells me that BIOS update will do me good lol

cpu-z doesn't tell you volts, and how long did you short the CMOS for?

closeratio · 4 Nov 2007 at 23:20

Ahhh right. CPU-z must have been just showing stock volts. Do you know know of any program that can tell me the volts of pretty much everythin i can change?

And you know I didn't short them for that long... a second or two at the most. I plugged it out as well, but I'm not sure if that makes a difference or not. Do you think I should short them for longer? and dya think it's worth takin the battery out too?

yantorsen · 4 Nov 2007 at 23:22

closeratio said:
Ahhh right. CPU-z must have been just showing stock volts. Do you know know of any program that can tell me the volts of pretty much everythin i can change?

And you know I didn't short them for that long... a second or two at the most. I plugged it out as well, but I'm not sure if that makes a difference or not. Do you think I should short them for longer? and dya think it's worth takin the battery out too?

just leave the battery in, make sure power is DISCONNECTED, and short the CMOS for atleast FIVE seconds.

and I don't know of any volt measuring software, but what the BIOS says usually goes.

and what are you using to short the CMOS, obviously it need to be conductive.

closeratio · 4 Nov 2007 at 23:24

Right ok then. I'll bear that in mind and I'll try it now. Thing is when I did get it to boot at 3Ghz with manual volts, it failed Orthos almost straight away. I fear I might have to give it a bit more juice.

oh and I went on corsair's website and it says my RAM's designed to run at 2.4 Volts! That's a bit of a lot ain't it! I mean yeah they've got heatsiinks but still. Seems a bit scary to have to go into the BIOS and select the +0.6V in red lol. I miight leave it at 0.5V or somethin. I don't wanna break them lol. Link to that page here. Do you think I should put this much voltage through them?

yantorsen · 4 Nov 2007 at 23:28

closeratio said:
Right ok then. I'll bear that in mind and I'll try it now. Thing is when I did get it to boot at 3Ghz with manual volts, it failed Orthos almost straight away. I fear I might have to give it a bit more juice.

oh and I went on corsair's website and it says my RAM's designed to run at 2.4 Volts! That's a bit of a lot ain't it! I mean yeah they've got heatsiinks but still. Seems a bit scary to have to go into the BIOS and select the +0.6V in red lol. I miight leave it at 0.5V or somethin. I don't wanna break them lol

what vocore was it running at? and what temps were you getting whilst running orthos? which orthos test did you do?

and if you're sure you have the right model on the corsair website it should be right, just make sure there's good airflow over the dimms.

is your ram the 1250mhz stuff?!?!

closeratio · 4 Nov 2007 at 23:30

erm as far as i can remember it was just under or exactly 1.3volts. I could give it just a touch more (or less maybe?). Erm temps were getting towards the 47C range under load. I bet they would settle at about 50 if I left it to run. And I did the small FFT test (the one that apparently only stresses the CPU).

And I'm pretty sure. I might run them just slightly less than that to be safe.

Lol and I don't think so. It says so there but that's not what it said when I bought it from the retailer. Maybe that's O'ced or somethin. When you go on the place where I got it form, it says they can run at 1.8V. Maybe you put the extra volts through them when you clock them

yantorsen · 4 Nov 2007 at 23:34

closeratio said:
erm as far as i can remember it was just under or exactly 1.3volts. I could give it just a touch more (or less maybe?). Erm temps were getting towards the 47C range under load. I bet they would settle at about 50 if I left it to run. And I did the small FFT test (the one that apparently only stresses the CPU).

And I'm pretty sure. I might run them just slightly less than that to be safe.

Lol and I don't think so. It says so there but that's not what it said when I bought it from the retailer. Maybe that's O'ced or somethin. When you go on the place where I got it form, it says they can run at 1.8V. Maybe you put the extra volts through them when you clock them

i think the ram you've linked is not the same as yours, there's more than one dominator model by corsair you know??

run the blend test on orthos

closeratio · 4 Nov 2007 at 23:37

Ahhh no I've found them now. Proper Link. Lol thought that was a bit odd. And right I'll run that test. It'll take me a while to reply seen as I'm gonna be clearin the CMOS and messin in the BIOS.

Oh and I didn't have to take my Gfx card out; it's only a single-slot cooler

yantorsen · 4 Nov 2007 at 23:41

closeratio said:
Ahhh no I've found them now. Proper Link. Lol thought that was a bit odd. And right I'll run that test. It'll take me a while to reply seen as I'm gonna be clearin the CMOS and messin in the BIOS.

Oh and I didn't have to take my Gfx card out; it's only a single-slot cooler

fair enough.

and you should only be running that ram at 1.8v

closeratio · 5 Nov 2007 at 00:02

lol right ok then. I will do. I was gonna start messin then but i'm downloadin the Bioshock demo (purely for its 'wowww... these graphics are awwwessommmeee' value

), and if I shut my comp down, I'd have to start downloadin it again. I'll do as you said though Yanto. And thanks again for your help.

yantorsen · 5 Nov 2007 at 00:03

no problem mate.

the crysis and UT3 demos are out now btw. and COD4

closeratio · 5 Nov 2007 at 00:07

Yeha played and completed the crysis demo, probably one of the best games I've ever played (purely because of the graphics lol), it's quite a big step form a 6200 to an 8800 lol. Played the COD4 one as well, that ain't half bad as well. Will def been gettin those two.

I'll put UT3 onto my list as well

Oh and I'll be using one of those thin silver screwdrivers to short it. Example image here. From what I can tell it's bare metal, you think that's conductive enough?

yantorsen · 5 Nov 2007 at 00:12

closeratio said:
Yeha played and completed the crysis demo, probably one of the best games I've ever played (purely because of the graphics lol), it's quite a big step form a 6200 to an 8800 lol. Played the COD4 one as well, that ain't half bad as well. Will def been gettin those two.

I'll put UT3 onto my list as well

Oh and I'll be using one of those thin silver screwdrivers to short it. Example image here. From what I can tell it's bare metal, you think that's conductive enough?

should be I just used a screw driver.

and I've just recently upgraded from a athlon xp, 9550 system lol.

closeratio · 5 Nov 2007 at 00:45

Lol bet that was a shock when you started playin games again

Anyway, I did the CMOS thing again, no message to say I did, but it chaged a lot of stuff when I went back into the BIOS again (set the True FSB to 100 (???)) And when I tried to set the voltages to manual again, it automatically set them back to stock. Now the problem's not with clocking it, it's with the fact that it's not allowing me to manually change the voltages.

Anyway, I set the FSB to 300 (effectively 3Ghz on the CPU), and set the voltage control to auto (so it would actually boot with the 3Ghz speed). Seemed ok, and so I ran Orthos and Coretemp on the blend test, I was get temps of about 52, and after about 3 mins it blue screened on me. Now I think this is because the auto voltage control isn't givin it enough voltage.

It didn't show any errors in orthos before it blue-screened, but the fact that it did blue screened tells me it's unstable.

Hey Yanto, does your mobo let you change the voltages manually and then allow you to boot without any problems? (with the voltages you set)

yantorsen · 5 Nov 2007 at 00:47

closeratio said:
Hey Yanto, does your mobo let you change the voltages manually and then allow you to boot without any problems? (with the voltages you set)

yep it does, you have to press ctrl+F1, then change Voltage control from automatic to manual, change the voltage to what you want and then press F10.

and are you sure you made good contact with the CMOS pins? you sure you got the right pins? and what material is your screw driver?

closeratio · 5 Nov 2007 at 00:55

yantorsen said:
yep it does, you have to press ctrl+F1, then change Voltage control from automatic to manual, change the voltage to what you want and then press F10.

and are you sure you made good contact with the CMOS pins? you sure you got the right pins? and what material is your screw driver?

Right I'll try again. I'm determined to get it to 3ghz stable lol. It's the main reason I got this CPU.

And if that fails I'll tek the gfx card out and make sure I properly short out the pins. I think I've got the right pins, they're kinda to the right and up of the battery. And my screwdriver just seems to be made out of normal metal. Steel I'm guessing, maybe stainless.

I'm not getting a message saying I've cleared it, but other things have changed without me making them. If ou reset the CMOS, do you lose all your saved Overclocks? Because mine seem to be staying

yantorsen · 5 Nov 2007 at 00:59

closeratio said:
Right I'll try again. I'm determined to get it to 3ghz stable lol. It's the main reason I got this CPU.

And if that fails I'll tek the gfx card out and make sure I properly short out the pins. I think I've got the right pins, they're kinda to the right and up of the battery. And my screwdriver just seems to be made out of normal metal. Steel I'm guessing, maybe stainless.

I'm not getting a message saying I've cleared it, but other things have changed without me making them. If ou reset the CMOS, do you lose all your saved Overclocks? Because mine seem to be staying

yes you should lose everything. And you should get a message telling you it's been reset too.

and yes the pins are to the right and up on the battery. just make sure it's permanent conact, for a good five seconds atleast, and the screw driver isn't touching anything else. and remember to disconect the power.