camera for night sky
- Thread starter Glaucus
- Start date
Ta, its been shipped so should have it Thursday hopefully.
In the mean time I purchased PhotoPlus magazine. I know now what all these random numbers mean and its got several guides I want to use, long exposure of water falls, combining two photos for skyline and ground. HDR image combining.
One thing it doesn't say is what version of PhotoShop is used to combine all these images, as there's so many these days. Going by adobe website. Lightfoot 5 seems the most likely candidate, is that right?
Also I need a remote. Will any do, can some do more than others?
In the mean time I purchased PhotoPlus magazine. I know now what all these random numbers mean and its got several guides I want to use, long exposure of water falls, combining two photos for skyline and ground. HDR image combining.
One thing it doesn't say is what version of PhotoShop is used to combine all these images, as there's so many these days. Going by adobe website. Lightfoot 5 seems the most likely candidate, is that right?
Also I need a remote. Will any do, can some do more than others?
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Got my hands on it
Now need to learn how to use it.
Also need the smallest lightest bag for it any ideas? Likely to get two more lenses.
A prime wide angle and a prime 500mm would something like this be ok for moon shots?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/500mm-F6-...=UK_Lenses_Filters_Lenses&hash=item51b9f7b195
Or something else?
And any reasonable and sub £100 2x teleconvetters to boost it up?
But need to get a bag and a remote, those are the priorities.
Now need to learn how to use it.
Also need the smallest lightest bag for it any ideas? Likely to get two more lenses.
A prime wide angle and a prime 500mm would something like this be ok for moon shots?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/500mm-F6-...=UK_Lenses_Filters_Lenses&hash=item51b9f7b195
Or something else?
And any reasonable and sub £100 2x teleconvetters to boost it up?
But need to get a bag and a remote, those are the priorities.
I use a Crumpler Jackpack for a small light bag, fits quite a lot in considering it's size and the quality is good as usual from a Crumpler.
Bags I tend to find are more personal preference though, so it might be worth having a look at a few and see what you like the look of.
Bags I tend to find are more personal preference though, so it might be worth having a look at a few and see what you like the look of.
Is there any decent shops to go have a look at, which have a decent range?
The thing is the camera is going to be used mainly on ultrahigh hiking. So needs to fir in rucksack with all my camping kit, food etc.
How about a remote, are there certain remotes that you can change settings and thus making sure the camera doesn't move so you can combine images easily.
The thing is the camera is going to be used mainly on ultrahigh hiking. So needs to fir in rucksack with all my camping kit, food etc.
How about a remote, are there certain remotes that you can change settings and thus making sure the camera doesn't move so you can combine images easily.
I have the Samyang 500mm f8, and to be honest never use it. Huge lack of contrast, it's a nightmare to focus and tends to drift with temperature change (although all lenses do to a certain extent). It's a mirror lens so you can't stop down the aperture to improve sharpness like you can with a refracting lens. I got much better moon images from my Tamron 18-270mm superzoom even after heavily cropping the images. Can't see that the f6.3 version will be much better, and I'm not sure catadioptric lenses will work well with a teleconverter.
500mm sounds like a lot, but even on my 1200mm scope and a crop sensor camera I had to crop moon images down a bit...
On nikon 18-55s, infinity is just all the way in one direction, dont think that the canon one is different for this lens.
With regards to teleconverters - not sure it would be worth it. 2x does degrade the image somewhat and reduces your aperture by two stops. I use one with my 70-200 f2.8 as that only reduces it to f5.6 and so is still useable, but on anything smaller than this, not worth it
With regards to teleconverters - not sure it would be worth it. 2x does degrade the image somewhat and reduces your aperture by two stops. I use one with my 70-200 f2.8 as that only reduces it to f5.6 and so is still useable, but on anything smaller than this, not worth it
Any idea which way?
Going to go for a walk in a bit and hopefully Clifton suspension bridge will look good at dusk. There's also a few tracks with trees over the top which may or may not look good. An abandoned round stone building. So will basically have a play. Then get some mean critiques as they're bond to be rubbish.
Going to go for a walk in a bit and hopefully Clifton suspension bridge will look good at dusk. There's also a few tracks with trees over the top which may or may not look good. An abandoned round stone building. So will basically have a play. Then get some mean critiques as they're bond to be rubbish.
I think its the one where the lens is least long if you understand what I mean? I think on the nikon its clockwise if youre holding the camera as if taking a picture, though havent held one since the d700 came out. Easy way to check is to autofocus on something close, note which way the end of the lens turns and turn it the other way 
Just to give you a bit on the 2x etc.
When you add 2x you require 4x the light, 4x requires 16x etc. So you'll find either more aperture to stay or faster lens but going for wide field (but no point in adding a teleconverter!).
I have a 2x and 5x televue for the scope, taking the 670mm f6.38 to it's max. I've stacked both the 2x&5x to image the sun at f63 at 6700mm focal length but usually it's 1-2x for DSO, 5x (~f32) for planets and solar.
The blog standard 17-55mm EOS lens is not quite there - it has some CA and focusing is difficult (this is compared to APO scopes) - this is where LiveView helps buckets.
For night shots - really anything over f8 is too slow for AP unless you're going planet hunting or solar. f6 is good and f4 is far far better.
When you add 2x you require 4x the light, 4x requires 16x etc. So you'll find either more aperture to stay or faster lens but going for wide field (but no point in adding a teleconverter!).
I have a 2x and 5x televue for the scope, taking the 670mm f6.38 to it's max. I've stacked both the 2x&5x to image the sun at f63 at 6700mm focal length but usually it's 1-2x for DSO, 5x (~f32) for planets and solar.
The blog standard 17-55mm EOS lens is not quite there - it has some CA and focusing is difficult (this is compared to APO scopes) - this is where LiveView helps buckets.
For night shots - really anything over f8 is too slow for AP unless you're going planet hunting or solar. f6 is good and f4 is far far better.
Nice start 
Would definitely invest in a tripod if you're thinking about taking photos at night, makes all the difference. Image stabilisation works to an extent but can only extend shutter speeds by a couple of stops. I was always taught not to try to take a photo with a shutter speed greater than the focal length, e.g. 50mm, shutter speed less than 1/50seconds. Will post up a photo I took in Angelsey tomorrow if i can work out how...
Most important thing is to keep experimenting to see how you enjoy taking photos!
Also, most important question: What are those kite circles in the first pic???
Would definitely invest in a tripod if you're thinking about taking photos at night, makes all the difference. Image stabilisation works to an extent but can only extend shutter speeds by a couple of stops. I was always taught not to try to take a photo with a shutter speed greater than the focal length, e.g. 50mm, shutter speed less than 1/50seconds. Will post up a photo I took in Angelsey tomorrow if i can work out how... Most important thing is to keep experimenting to see how you enjoy taking photos!
Also, most important question: What are those kite circles in the first pic???