Car Stopped Functioning Whilst Rolling, Anyone Know Why?

I’ve heard of this issue being related to battery/alternator. But there’s a likely chance the car has stored some faults, get them read.
 
I have had this before in the past, usually battery terminals or alternator ones needing a visit with a spanner.
And yes the brakes are working correctly, no engine running = no assistance and harder pedal - i would have thought this mentioned to you in your driving lessons....
 
BUDFORCE said:
Why the hell do car manufacturers do this, or are even allowed to do this?

The fact that if your engine/electrics on a car fail it can affect your brakes is insane.
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As a mechanic since the early 80's. I am horrified at the failure modes that are possible on modern vehicles.

I have posted on this matter before.

Recently I had a customer with a VW Passat that experienced an EPS failure.

This happened suddenly and completly without warning. She was very lucky not to have been killed (Not to have killed somebody else)

Really!

I may be getting on in years but I have always done manual work so my upper body stregth is considerabe.

My Arms are larger than my GF's legs, (something she finds rather thrilling actually ;) :D) She has a knee support thing when we go out cycling and I cant get it past my wrists! I have oil and antifreeze delivered in 200L drums which I have to roll to where I want them and then up end them. Oil is easy enough but Antifreeze is a little Bitch. Upending a drum of Antifreeze is a 250Lb+ dead lift!. I only mention this because...


With the EPS non-functional, I found this car undrivable. Had the EPS decided to die while she was negotiating a corner or a roundabout, there is no question in my mind that she would have completely lost control of the car. Hell, I would have done!

This is SIMPLY NOT ACCEPTABLE and I, like you, cannot understand why it is allowed under construction and use legislation!
 
Sorry took long to reply... had a busy work week.

EDIT: Decided to test the battery today. Initially looked fine until I took it out to clean the terminals (steel wool) and put it back together...


Check the last half of video where car just struggles to start.

Pics of battery when I took it out:

2OSomol.jpg

z6xUP4O.jpg


Any opinions on this? Thanks.
 
You should only be measuring 14 and a bit volts across the posts while charging and around 13 volts when not. The battery doesn't look to be suffering but I'd be inclined to check it with another meter if you've got one.
 
Looks like your multi meter readings could be way out...
Have you got another multi meter to test with ?

Or test that multi meter on another car to check it is reading correctly..;)
 
bledd said:
Loose or corroded battery terminal or a dodgy ground somewhere.
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I'm going with this. When I first got my Corrado one of the clamps on the leads to the battery was loose and wouldn't tighten. It worked it's way loose at some point and I had the same symptoms until I tightened it back on.
 
At 20 seconds it looks like the footage jumps, and the camera moves. I don't hear you try to start the car again until 22/23 seconds, where it sounds fairly normal. A battery will always drop significantly when cranking but 6/7v is a bit low.
 
bledd said:
Over 15v is very bad for your battery.
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I was thinking that as the readings really jumped out, aren't they meant to max out at about 14v for a 12v battery under charge? I've never seen more than about 14 on any of the various types of 12v battery I've checked*.

I would think either the multimeter is reading very wrong, or there is something up with the battery for a reading of 16-19v from a nominal 12v battery, I'm not massively experienced with car batteries but 50% over the nominal voltage would be ringing a an alarm for any battery.

Blind guess, could it be the alternator/voltage regular putting out too much, and wouldn't that affect some of the engine sensors?



*Various lead acid and gel types usually for mobility scooters (which are usually just smaller version), but a few cars as well.
 
Last edited:
1: You need a new multimeter.
2: Its not the battery.
3: I suspect this was a fluke, or you were simply in a gear too high when it happened and the car stalled, which is a very real possibility given your limited knowledge on cars as indicated by your lack of knowledge on how power assisted steering and brakes work, or that a check engine light means your engine has stalled (sorry if that came across as condescending, just trying to eliminate the logical first).
4: When people start telling you to check vacuum lines because your car stalled once, ignore them.


When the car starts, does it run ok?
 
Before you go any further, replace the battery in that multi-meter. You won't get any sense out of it with the battery warning showing (not on a cheapy one anyway).
 
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