Changing engine oil - pump it out, or let it drain?

OK so metal ramsp are yesterdays story - first link I picked, with his, in pole position - non-slip ramp heralded as the pro.
https://www.carbibles.com/best-car-ramps-guide/
just 1/10 a steel ramp.

Somewhat as Nasher said those steel ramps look more flimsy than ones from 20years ago ... they have cut the steel density from the ramp, with some addtional support under the flat section, wheras older designs were uniformly stong - wasted metal.

EX neighbour had an extension with left-over 18"x10" hardwood beams, I cut some sections to use as additional under car safety ... wood doesn't fail catastrophically/quickly like steel

- No one mentioned the wooden chocks - did they ? ... in case you forget which wheels have the handbrake, or leave it in neutral.
 
I use these rusty old metal ramps with little extensions, and chock a wheel at the opposite end of the car. Haven't died yet... They seem very strong and sturdy, I've used them hundreds of times, and they must already be quite old...

MW6b8S9.jpg

The upright supports are angle steel, quite thick, butted and welded into angle steel on the bottom, and welded to the bottom of angle steel at the top, no way its going anywhere...

Those red ramps earlier in the thread worry me though with the little bars on the sides which seem to be welded (poorly) onto the sides of the ramp... Pretty crap!
 
yes - they're the real deal. ...
I'm wondering too, if the newer ones, intetnionally have more structural elements/welds , to allow for them being inferior .. it still works if one weld goes
 
I use these rusty old metal ramps with little extensions, and chock a wheel at the opposite end of the car. Haven't died yet... They seem very strong and sturdy, I've used them hundreds of times, and they must already be quite old...


The upright supports are angle steel, quite thick, butted and welded into angle steel on the bottom, and welded to the bottom of angle steel at the top, no way its going anywhere...

Those red ramps earlier in the thread worry me though with the little bars on the sides which seem to be welded (poorly) onto the sides of the ramp... Pretty crap!

Yes, whoever designed it didn't think about what happens if the welds let go. The struts will just ping off.

And also a hydraulic lift built in to them. You'd need axle stands to use that safely, which kinda defeats the point.

An accident is extremely rare, but it only needs to happen once :/
 
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Yes, whoever designed it didn't think about what happens if the welds let go. The struts will just ping off.

And also a hydraulic lift built in to them. You'd need axle stands to use that safely, which kinda defeats the point.

An accident is extremely rare, but it only needs to happen once :/

Yes indeed. Also apologies for being rude to you earlier in the thread (if you noticed) I totally misread what you said... :p :o
 
And also a hydraulic lift built in to them.
It's not really that, is it though ? ..that would be a horrible and unsafe multi purpose - a jack of all trades. ..
it is just vertical uncompressable steel sections taking the load directly.
 
well i hope i havent posted too late, i usually jack up and remove sump plug for oil changes, but have been interested in the pump out option, so as im getting on a bit and both cars i drive in the household have there filters easily accesable in the engine bay decided i would look again.
was very taken with the micks garage one but thought i would look at ebay.... so micks 34 pounds or ebay for what looks like the same unit 123990334642 (item number ) just over 9 pounds delivered.
not saying its the same but certainly looking at the specs seems to be will check it out if it turns up either friday or tuesday next week.


by the way going back to ramps i made a pair out of angle iron in my last year of apprenticeship crumbs 40+ years ago and they were really strong until son lent them out to a friend while i was in hospital and never been seen again, grrrrrr.....................
 
In the marine world (due to sealed sumps), Pela manual pumps and similar are used, but I wouldn’t be in a hurry to go that route it if your sump has a drain plug - checking the magnet on the plug for trace metals etc. is generally something I want to do, also any buildup is easier to drain via sump while hot than try and suck out. In most cars I can think of with sealed sumps (smarts for example), owners consider it an upgrade to fit a conventional sump.
 
Obviously don't listen to Nasher...


To allay any confusion with this topic and with H&S at stake - Nasher is free to use blocks of wood and get killed but i would hope everyone else invests in some decent 2T ramps like these from Arebos - got them shipped from Germany a few months back, around 70GBP ea

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/9uUAAOSw-OFa7Fd0/s-l1600.jpg
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/~bkAAOSwQO9a7Fd4/s-l1600.jpg
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/MloAAOSwIs5a7FeE/s-l1600.jpg
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71n4SGhifxL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

**Do Not Hotlink Images **

Exactly, I caught my local Toyota dealer putting the wrong grade oil in my Hybrid as it affects the mpg, I had to do a viscosity test to prove it and they still denied it, tossers

I know someone who took a Subaru outback for an auto transmission fluid change - a few days later the owner noticed sluggish behaviour and eventually the transmission died -- the garage used the wrong fluid = car wrote off
 
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I'm going to defend wood http://www.appalachianwood.org/utilization.htm


WOOD UTILIZATION


Pound for pound, wood is stronger than steel. Unlike steel, it is also resilient. This combination of strength and resiliency gives wood the ability to absorb the shock of heavy loads providing a greater margin of safety than many other materials.


got them shipped from Germany a few months back, around 70GBP ea
no way on earth I'd be raising my car on that hydraulic section, with the close up the state of the welds , and lack of stability if the car got pushed sideways, especially if you had one on both sides

thh bottle jack might have a ce stamp, but the rest of the structure ? it was made in Germany, not by acme ?

edit: https://giant-wheelbarrow.en.made-i...nual-Steel-Car-Hydraulic-Ramp-Ramps-Lift.html
seems they have a 12 month warranty... can't see ce requirements
 
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I'm going to defend wood http://www.appalachianwood.org/utilization.htm






no way on earth I'd be raising my car on that hydraulic section, with the close up the state of the welds , and lack of stability if the car got pushed sideways, especially if you had one on both sides

thh bottle jack might have a ce stamp, but the rest of the structure ? it was made in Germany, not by acme ?

whatever! just get cracking on with plywood - its fine

BTW - The entire red ramp is TUV Sud certified - i guess you never heard of them but they are a compliance authority in Germany, I guess if your fantasy scenario occurred then TUV would have much to answer for...

like this plank, which had no chance against my Subaru

https://i.imgur.com/ACwLNoM.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/HTmHiuH.jpg
 
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Do you work for the company who makes those crap ramps or something? Jeez. Give it a rest! :p

I'm sure they are strong enough to be safe and pass certification, but they are still poorly made and designed with what appears to be very little understanding of how to make something inherently strong.

I doubt that bit of 2x4 would have cracked like that just from a vehicle sitting stationary atop it, it probably happened as you drove onto or off of it, or perhaps you tried to use it as a ramp?

Downward force (the mass of a car affected by gravity ;)) on a solid block of wood is not going to crush it.
 
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To allay any confusion with this topic and with H&S at stake - Nasher is free to use blocks of wood and get killed but i would hope everyone else invests in some decent 2T ramps like these from Arebos - got them shipped from Germany a few months back, around 70GBP ea

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/9uUAAOSw-OFa7Fd0/s-l1600.jpg
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/~bkAAOSwQO9a7Fd4/s-l1600.jpg
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/MloAAOSwIs5a7FeE/s-l1600.jpg
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71n4SGhifxL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

**Do Not Hotlink Images **



I know someone who took a Subaru outback for an auto transmission fluid change - a few days later the owner noticed sluggish behaviour and eventually the transmission died -- the garage used the wrong fluid = car wrote off

Shipped from Germany but made in China lol. There is only one place making these and its in China. How do you know its really TUV approved, because they said so?

That welding is no way up to the German standard.

Ebay is full of stuff with fake certificates and "CE" stickers.
 
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