changing idle flunctuation
- Thread starter TomTomTom
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Soldato
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TomTomTom said:
As some else has already said, whats wrong with using the handbrake?
1) Handbrake on (should be on anyway)
2) Stick it in first.
3) Rev a bit.
4) Drop the handbrake, while the clutch comes up and the accelerator goes down.
5) Produce satisfying wheelspin, followed by movement.
TomTomTom said:
I was taught to use handbrake on any incline, to stop any rollback, and so you're not chewing your clutch.
Soldato
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TomTomTom said:Well this is a surprise to me. It's what they teach in driving school and like I;ve repeated it's what I've always done. And for anyone else catching up, again yes I know about hand-brake on extreme hills.
Anyway, thanks everyone
What?!
What happened to using the handbrake on a hill, then finding the biting point WITH a bit throttle and then pulling off that way? They dont teach you to get the biting point without the throttle...
I wasn't expecting debate nor the jokes about my clutch control (which is just fine... arg).
Anyway, I guess in the UK people only use hand brake on any hill. Good enough.
But those who don't have really underpowered cars... just try it before you knock it. It's pretty neat and it doesn't eat the clutch any more than moving off, probably less if you don't hold position for too long. Go to a reasonable incline and try it. With foot on brake, raise clutch until you feel a slight shudder... don't raise clutch too much. Then release brake ... if the hill is not excessive, the car will hold. Less cumbersome than using hand brake every time. I didn't make this up, it's what I and many others have been taught.
Cheers
Anyway, I guess in the UK people only use hand brake on any hill. Good enough.
But those who don't have really underpowered cars... just try it before you knock it. It's pretty neat and it doesn't eat the clutch any more than moving off, probably less if you don't hold position for too long. Go to a reasonable incline and try it. With foot on brake, raise clutch until you feel a slight shudder... don't raise clutch too much. Then release brake ... if the hill is not excessive, the car will hold. Less cumbersome than using hand brake every time. I didn't make this up, it's what I and many others have been taught.
Cheers
Soldato
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Fair enough if you've got a huge engine-d car or a diesel, but you've got a 2.0 Mazda.
Most people don't actually use the handbrake on a hill-start anyway - off the brake and straight onto throttle/clutch and the biting point will get you underway quite happily.
And TBH if you went to a garage about this I think you'd get a few smirks.
Most people don't actually use the handbrake on a hill-start anyway - off the brake and straight onto throttle/clutch and the biting point will get you underway quite happily.
And TBH if you went to a garage about this I think you'd get a few smirks.
it has no problem doing it when the rpm's haven't dropped by the 300 rpm amount. And other non-diesel cars I've driven have also done it just fine.alexthecheese said:
I know that. I do that too.alexthecheese said:
Thanks for the warning, but I've never heard of this technique being a no-no. Different strokes in the UK.alexthecheese said:
I really don't see the advantage of this technique. How can it be any quicker than using the handbrake, throttle and clutch simultaneously? Even being lazy and not using the handbrake it has to be a pretty steep hill for you to roll back any significant distance just by jumping off the (foot) brake onto the throttle and letting the clutch out - although isn't the smoothest of techniques.
In which part of the world do they teach this crazy method?!?
In which part of the world do they teach this crazy method?!?
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probably totally different on a car but a lot of bikes just have a dial that you turn to upp the idle revs Well I fail to understand how doing this wears the clutch more than regular moving off or for that matter doing a hill start with the quick-footed method. If you've never done it yourself, you're probably imagining something brutal... it's very quiet, uneventful and smooth when you do it.
Anyway thanks. Maybe the Mazda 6 just isn't a good car for doing that with. Oh well. I'll just get out of the habit if the rpm drops can't be "dialed-out" of the system.
Anyway thanks. Maybe the Mazda 6 just isn't a good car for doing that with. Oh well. I'll just get out of the habit if the rpm drops can't be "dialed-out" of the system.
Soldato
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TomTomTom said:
Tried it on the way to work this morning.....and bugger me....it actually works, as long as I bring up the clutch slowly.
Just found a steep sloped side-street, stopped at the bottom, stuck the car in first and lifted slowly, it make a little grumble when the clutch was 1/2 way up, but then went on to creep all the way up to the top, without me touching the accellerator pedal. Slowly admittedly, but it did do it.
Le_Petit_Lapin said:Tried it on the way to work this morning.....and bugger me....it actually works, as long as I bring up the clutch slowly.
Yeah i know, i do it when i have to and its really no big deal! Can't feel it putting any undue strain on the car.
As volospian said, it's only to hold the car while you move your right foot from the brake to the gas. Once you're on the gas it'll feel a little different from your usual moving off since your clutch is already part way up... you might chug a little the first time you try it.Le_Petit_Lapin said:Tried it on the way to work this morning.....and bugger me....it actually works, as long as I bring up the clutch slowly.
Just found a steep sloped side-street, stopped at the bottom, stuck the car in first and lifted slowly, it make a little grumble when the clutch was 1/2 way up, but then went on to creep all the way up to the top, without me touching the accellerator pedal. Slowly admittedly, but it did do it.
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