changing idle flunctuation

PiKe · 11 Jul 2007 at 13:59

Either way it's wrong and you can't blame the car for it.

I was taught to use the handbrake to hold the car whilst setting bite point, just adapt, you go to the dealer with this problem and they'd just laugh at you.

TomTomTom · 11 Jul 2007 at 14:03

ci_newman said:
Yes, also known as slipping the clutch

it's very minor since you're at idle rpm and only long enough to move your foot from brake to gas. Besides we're not talking about spinning it as in "smoking it" or anything even close to it. You spin it probably more when you quick-foot it on an incline (also reversing a split second of backward momentum).

There is zero extra revving... very smooth.

Just try it... maybe takes a few tries to really get consistent. There's a rather narrow sweet spot on the clutch that holds it just right.

TomTomTom · 11 Jul 2007 at 14:07

PiKe said:
Either way it's wrong and you can't blame the car for it.

I was taught to use the handbrake to hold the car whilst setting bite point, just adapt, you go to the dealer with this problem and they'd just laugh at you.

I understand that the car might not be perfect for this because of the rpm fluctuation and that the rpm drops so very low suddenly. When however the rpm is steady, it works a treat with the Mazda 6... really

I'll just drop the habit and do only quick-foot and hand brake from now on with this car... it's not right for it unlike other cars I've driven.

TomTomTom · 11 Jul 2007 at 14:50

MTA99 said:
I really don't see the advantage of this technique. How can it be any quicker than using the handbrake, throttle and clutch simultaneously?

Once you're proficient at finding the sweet spot where the clutch holds it, it's just an easy and very smooth thing to do... don't know what else to say about it.

The world of manuals can live without it though... quick-footing and hand brake are a piece of cake as well. It's just another way to do it

Edit: but not to be done on steep hills where you would rather use hand brake. Only where you would otherwise quick-foot; advantage: not even a split second of backward momentum.

"andy" · 11 Jul 2007 at 15:37

for christs sake just use your handbrake

what your doing is not going to do your clutch much good at all

cant imagine a new clutch on your car will be cheap either

oh and yes i do do what your describing every now and again but my cars an absolute shed

NathanE · 11 Jul 2007 at 15:43

Simple solution is to not ride the clutch on such a knife edge. Give it a bit more gas so that the slightest error or fluctuation in RPM isn't going stall it...

Phal · 11 Jul 2007 at 16:02

lol

he isnt riding the clutch... he isnt causing extra damage and ZOMG *** WORLD WONT END!

Come to junction... stop with foot brake and stay on foot brake!

Then when you want to go, let the clutch out till you feel it bite... then you can take your foot off the brake and put it on the accelerator without rolling back and pull away quickly and safely ( providing you car has enough power/torque not to just stall >.< )

To the OP - get another car

lol

PiKe · 11 Jul 2007 at 16:05

It's laziness.

Phal · 11 Jul 2007 at 16:26

PiKe said:
It's laziness.

Yes it is! But then again arent we all constantly looking for ways to make our lives easier?

Hell, even cars are just another brilliant idea to make our lives easier

or at least thats how they started!

**sidenote** why is T E H starred out :| like this - ***

Fireskull · 11 Jul 2007 at 16:39

Phal said:
Yes it is! But then again arent we all constantly looking for ways to make our lives easier?

Hell, even cars are just another brilliant idea to make our lives easier or at least thats how they started!

**sidenote** why is T E H starred out :| like this - ***

ocuk dont like leet speak

TomTomTom · 11 Jul 2007 at 16:43

NathanE said:
Simple solution is to not ride the clutch on such a knife edge. Give it a bit more gas so that the slightest error or fluctuation in RPM isn't going stall it...

the whole point of this is to hold the car long enough to move foot from brake to gas, so that's kind of irrelevant.

not addressed specifically to NathanE:
I can understand the skepticism if you've never heard of doing this, but it's really not any more wear on your clutch than a quick-foot hill start where you counter that split second of backward momentum... think about it (and no, I don't over-rev when I do the latter)

Try it a few times to get moderately proficient at it, then decide whether it's "excessive wear" on the clutch. If you "see", hear and feel for yourself how it goes (when done right and not on an excessive hill), I can't see how you can conclude that it's excessive wear.

Phal · 11 Jul 2007 at 16:43

aww

I tend to use it for sarcastic comments :/ Its a pretty common typo too

Fireskull · 11 Jul 2007 at 16:46

Phal said:
aww I tend to use it for sarcastic comments :/ Its a pretty common typo too

Lol yea OCUK dont like typos or bad speeling either

TomTomTom · 11 Jul 2007 at 16:48

Phal said:
lol

he isnt riding the clutch... he isnt causing extra damage and ZOMG *** WORLD WONT END!

yeah it's totally fine for the car...

Phal said:
Come to junction... stop with foot brake and stay on foot brake!

Then when you want to go, let the clutch out till you feel it bite... then you can take your foot off the brake and put it on the accelerator without rolling back and pull away quickly and safely ( providing you car has enough power/torque not to just stall >.< )

exactly how it's done (only to clarify that you're not rolling back at all as you're switching to the gas pedal). A diesel would be a little more forgiving because it won't stall as easily if you're off the mark, but any reasonable power/weight ratio car will do it

Phal said:
To the OP - get another car lol

I'm happy with the car

I don't mind doing hill starts the other ways. Just was curious to what extent the idle rpm stuff can be tweaked... like if it can be forced to not fluctuate at all (it's +/-300 rpm fluctuations that cause the issue)