- Joined
- 30 Aug 2009
- Posts
- 613
All parts ARE working fine, There is just the issue of getting proper water flow.The RAD will be mounted once i get a proper water cycle going.
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It wasnt using/not using the jumper that caused my problem, it was thinking "heh, I'll be fine for a week until those hoseclips turn up" that was my problemYears ago now anyhow. I'm on my third watercooled build now, and all three are still going strong.
If you're happy that the pump is pushing water round, and that everything is properly done up, no kinks etc, it could be trapped air in the radiators / waterblocks.
Do up the cap on the reservoir, and with the pump running, give the whole rig a gentle rocking back and forwards for a while. You're trying to dislodge air bubbles, not get coins out of grandma's moneybox. Should be able to hear any trapped air gurgling around. Bit like too eating too much chilli.
When you're happy that the loop is continuous - water from the pump is going thru every block, going thru the radiators and is turning up back at the reservoir, then you should do the leaktesting - wrap the connectors on every block with kitchen roll and leave the loop running - check it overnight or tomorrow, and make sure all those pieces of kitchen roll are still dry.
Theres more experienced people than me who'll probably be along to help later. Fingers crossed for you.
I get the feeling that extrememachine is a typical bloke that doesn't read instruction books![]()

The two 360's are at the top, right? I'd guess that is it a trapped air problem.
Again - unplug ALL other power connectors - including all of those ones going to your graphics cards, and hard drives, and motherboard.
http://i.imgur.com/nq3Zr95.jpg
To get rid of the air, take one of the plugs out of the top of the reservoir, and run the pump (without ANYTHING else still plugged in) and gently rock the case around.
The level of coolant in the reservoir should then drop, as the air is removed.
Make sure the top cap of the res is screwed on and tip the case in whatever direction that would allow mavity to let the air bubbles flow naturally out of the rad.
Use the pump to assist with this and make sure it's getting fed by the res!
I was fortunate that in my last build, my top rad was exposed and had multiple ports (Alphacool) that allowed for simple bleeding.
Well, my offer still stands and I can bring a spare D5 with me to eliminate the possibility of your pump being dodgy![]()
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Doubt it.
Having had a look at the pics you posted earlier, I'm thinking that you should try ditching the 120 rad. It'll make no difference anyway, even when you do mount it somewhere.
Have the pump going directly to the cards and see how the flow is then.
It's an EK supremacy and looking at the pic I think it's actually plumbed in backwards (won't cause a leak, just hurt flow a bit).
pump is plumed backwards, CPU block is backwards, and i feel the CPU sould be before the GPU's in the loop he heat put out bu the GPUs will hinder the CPU's overclockability