Circulation problem

It wasnt using/not using the jumper that caused my problem, it was thinking "heh, I'll be fine for a week until those hoseclips turn up" that was my problem :D Years ago now anyhow. I'm on my third watercooled build now, and all three are still going strong.

If you're happy that the pump is pushing water round, and that everything is properly done up, no kinks etc, it could be trapped air in the radiators / waterblocks.

Do up the cap on the reservoir, and with the pump running, give the whole rig a gentle rocking back and forwards for a while. You're trying to dislodge air bubbles, not get coins out of grandma's moneybox. Should be able to hear any trapped air gurgling around. Bit like too eating too much chilli.

When you're happy that the loop is continuous - water from the pump is going thru every block, going thru the radiators and is turning up back at the reservoir, then you should do the leaktesting - wrap the connectors on every block with kitchen roll and leave the loop running - check it overnight or tomorrow, and make sure all those pieces of kitchen roll are still dry.

Theres more experienced people than me who'll probably be along to help later. Fingers crossed for you.

Rocking the case gve some motion.Saw water flowing through the cpu block.
Looks like blockage/trapped air.
 
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Again - unplug ALL other power connectors - including all of those ones going to your graphics cards, and hard drives, and motherboard.

http://i.imgur.com/nq3Zr95.jpg

To get rid of the air, take one of the plugs out of the top of the reservoir, and run the pump (without ANYTHING else still plugged in) and gently rock the case around.

The level of coolant in the reservoir should then drop, as the air is removed.

I will completely remove the top plug run pump and rock again.

Didnt do anything it seems.
 
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Make sure the top cap of the res is screwed on and tip the case in whatever direction that would allow mavity to let the air bubbles flow naturally out of the rad.
Use the pump to assist with this and make sure it's getting fed by the res!
I was fortunate that in my last build, my top rad was exposed and had multiple ports (Alphacool) that allowed for simple bleeding.

I have tried this both with and without the res plug, it barely did anything.
How long did this process take you?
 
I am in London.Thnx but want to perservere this by myself.
The rocking didnt do anything, the pump isnt really pushing the water strong enough.
When I switch the power on the pump gives a quick jolt and rumbles for half a second, there must be a way to get this pump in full power if it is not.

Is it compulsory to have the res tubing like this:?skip to 40s)

 
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Well, my offer still stands and I can bring a spare D5 with me to eliminate the possibility of your pump being dodgy :)

d5? This is my second pump both the aqua stream advanced work its just I thought the previous one was faulty because of no water flow.
waste of nearly 100 quid.

Took out a molex extension cable and a bit not much of water went on top of the titan b pcb, its dry now but is it serious?The water must have been resting there, yikes.
 
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Doubt it.

Having had a look at the pics you posted earlier, I'm thinking that you should try ditching the 120 rad. It'll make no difference anyway, even when you do mount it somewhere.
Have the pump going directly to the cards and see how the flow is then.

Drain it all gain? Will 2x 360 be enough for 3 titan blacks and 4960x?
 
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Spoke to somone at aquastream in uk , and stated the orientation of the cpu block affects the pump/flow of the water.
please read this too.

Came across this on the web:

"Ok, so after almost pulling the whole loop out and testing each component, it would appear it is the Phobya CPU Water Block.

The res/pump combo is fine and pumps massive amounts of water, which is reassuring. So I hooked it up to the 240 rad and it blew straight through it, no obstruction no trickle, it was a torrent.

I then hooked up the res/pump to the 360 rad and same thing.

I then tested the CPU water block and boom! It was a trickle, it went hard to start off with and then it almost came to a standstill. The Phobya CPU water block comes with absolutely NO instructions. On their website is absolutely nothing! It says a lot about a company that can't even supply a simple set of instructions with their product, or at least supply the info on their website.

The diagram on the CPU water block itself indicated that the inlet was the arrow pointing into the water block and the outlet was the arrow pointing out of the water block.... WRONG! The inlet and outlet are completely different to what you would think. The arrow pointing in is the outlet and the arrow pointing out is the inlet.... go figure.

When I hooked the loop up in the appropriate configuration the liquid started blasting through there.... SUCCESS!

So I then put the whole loop back together and it has been going hard since. It is working those bubble and air pockets out quite nicely.

I just wanted to thank you guys for your assistance. Dave and BC you have helped me a great deal and I really appreciate it. Thanks again. I finally get to enjoy my PC at last.

So just to reconfirm, the actual post title of "How to clear air out of water loop?" is really incorrect of me. It should have been "My water flow rate is a trickle, how to fix?" That would have been more accurate, but I just wasn't aware that the flow rate and air pockets were two different problems. Something that I know very well now."

From my pictures is it orientated wrong?
 
Actually just got back to the PC after a break, the swap of the cpu in/outlet didnt change anything.
Still pondering what it could be.

All liquid flows through the cycle UNTIL the tubes get filled with liquid then it does nothing.
After switching on the power the pump gives an initial jolt and pushes water for half a second, anyway to give this thing more power?
Anyone have the advanced/ultra version of this pump??
 
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