Computer died after moving house - now problems with NZXT

I'm looking for something between 450w and 550w - trying to hit the max on the efficiency curve.
Obviously you would like modular PSU for avoiding unused cables.
And then high quality capacitors are other thing.
I'm sure you don't want another PSU using cheap enough Chinese lottery parts instead of quality parts.

For 450W there's BitFenix and then price jumps
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/bitf...plus-gold-modular-power-supply-ca-229-bx.html
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/seas...plus-gold-modular-power-supply-ca-019-ss.html

For 550W BitFenix Whisper would best priced followed by EVGA Supernova and XFX XTR
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/bitf...plus-gold-modular-power-supply-ca-22a-bx.html
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/evga...plus-gold-modular-power-supply-ca-023-ea.html
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/xfx-...old-fully-modular-power-supply-ca-026-xf.html

Unlike Seasonic G Corsair TX has more than minimum cables as fixed so you might want to skip it for completely avoiding unneeded cables in that small case.
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=261


Above 80+ Gold efficiency there aren't much of smaller wattage PSUs.

Actually higher wattage Seasonic Titanium PSUs would beat these 80+ Golds in efficiency at low loads.
While Seasonic started looking also at low load effiency long ago 80+ Titanium is actually first efficiency marking setting requirement for below 20% load.
Still there's something ludicrous in 750/850W PSUs doing nearing 10% better efficiency at 40W load than 450W 80+ Gold PSU.
https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Seasonic/Prime_750/6.html
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/seasonic-prime-850w-titanium-psu,4761-5.html
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/seasonic-g-series-450w-power-supply,4256-5.html
 
Could be the H100i was actually faulty and leaked ?

If I were you I'd buy a PSU tester they only cost about £10 I got mine from the blue shirts and its been invaluable testing suspect PSU's and also used it for water testing a custom loop.

If it turns out its not the PSU you've only spent a tenner plus I can guarantee it will come in handy in the future !
 
Could be the H100i was actually faulty and leaked ?

If I were you I'd buy a PSU tester they only cost about £10 I got mine from the blue shirts and its been invaluable testing suspect PSU's and also used it for water testing a custom loop.

If it turns out its not the PSU you've only spent a tenner plus I can guarantee it will come in handy in the future !

I did check the H100i but seems clear of leaks. Didn't see any liquid marks or anything inside either.

I'll have a look at the PSU tester, but seeing as the two other components that could be the cause are new, it seems more likely it's the PSU
 
I had a similar problem with the wife's comp. The computer switched on, lights and fans were working but it wouldn't get into the bios, I just got a blank screen.

After a lot of testing this and that it turned out to be the memory. I have DDR2 set in dual channel and it was a single stick that went belly up.
 
Thread update: I've bought a EVGA 550W Supernova G3, instead of testing the PSU first. This is due to the small amount of time I actually have to test and then buy a PSU. I've also bought a Dark Rock Pro 3 as my primary cooler, for lower noise etc.

I'm next back on Wednesday, so I'll be able to test then
 
Just a random thought, but it may also be worth double checking the power button connector to your MOBO and to the Power Button itself. I don't believe your MOBO has an on board power on button to test with?
When I built my rig in a NZXT case, I pulled a cable a little too tight from the case control panel to connect it to my MOBO.
Maybe nothing, but may be worth double checking...
 
Just a random thought, but it may also be worth double checking the power button connector to your MOBO and to the Power Button itself. I don't believe your MOBO has an on board power on button to test with?
When I built my rig in a NZXT case, I pulled a cable a little too tight from the case control panel to connect it to my MOBO.
Maybe nothing, but may be worth double checking...
You're spot on. I changed power supply, and nothing.

I did some investigating, and it turns out that the screwdriver I was using to short the pins has a non conductive coating, which makes sense as it's a tiny multi bit one used for small electronics (think ifixit)

I used a different screw driver and boom, fans kicked in.

After some testing of the power button, it seems there's a problem with it - if I press it on a certain point and at the right angle, it'll work.

I've had nothing but problems with this case - first the manual was half finished, missing all the key info out.

Then the LED lighting doesn't work.

Not a great experience after having such a good one with the H440 :/

I'm going to keep the EVGA as it gives me an extra 7 years of warranty.

The BeQuiet cooler was a nightmare to install! The manual was poor, but damn it's quiet!

In all, a nightmare. I recommend using different tools to short the pins, as you may have a similar problem with the coating.
 
Wow, what a nightmare.

Symptons like this have a hundred different fixes.

Glad you got it fixed.

For example.

Now, if my rig is powered off for more than 24 hours, I have to reset CMOS before it will show any sign of power. Literally, no LED's on mobo or anythnig till CMOS is reset.

Random.
 
Ah we have all been there :-( Unfortunately there are times when you just have to throw money at a PC until you stumble over the problem. Point is though that you got some upgrades along the way which gives the cloud a silver lining. I am just glad it's all sorted now. :D
 
So, for the last couple of weeks I've been trying to get hold of NZXT and can't for the life of me get them to respond. I start online chats and everything, and just get told that a ticket is being processed, but when checking my account, it's not there.

Amazon just tell me to send the case back to them, which is one heck of a faff.
 
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