Could Low Battery Cause This Glow Plug Fault?

If you can swap it over without coding, then you're wasting money on the garage.
I guess my concern is, we don't know it's the battery 100%. I charged it for 8+ hours yesterday, plus nothing else has really indicated the battery has struggled other than one warning after I turned it over for about 10 seconds without it starting (even then, it turned over quickly the whole time). I released, tried again and it started instantly and I never saw the warning again. I think I'd be happier with them checking everything over. On a Skoda forum, someone had these errors and it was a little comms box in the engine.
 
This video is for Octavia, I presume the procedure is similar for Superb, if not, I'm sure someone has shared how to check this on the Superb on Skoda forums.

For VCDS you'll need VAG COM HEX V2 Interface (One from China/Ali will be ok).
 
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I dunno if it still works like it used to, been a long time since I drove a diesel, but you used to be able to turn the key around so the ignition is on, but then not actually start it for maybe 10/15 seconds. The idea is the glow plugs would warm up first before you cranked it.

I'm guessing that isn't a thing anymore on modern diesels?
 
I dunno if it still works like it used to, been a long time since I drove a diesel, but you used to be able to turn the key around so the ignition is on, but then not actually start it for maybe 10/15 seconds. The idea is the glow plugs would warm up first before you cranked it.

I'm guessing that isn't a thing anymore on modern diesels?

That's how I learned to drive too, turn ignition on, wait for little coil light to go out, then start. That said, the amount of people I saw getting in their cars and simply cranking until it started was quite hilarious. Oddly they often had to change batteries and starter motors, no correlation I'm sure.
 
Even in my 1.9TDI I don't have to do that anymore and that's tech from the 90's. lol

I do wait for the fuel pump to prime up before I crank the car tho...
 
I don't think 8 hours is all that long in terms of car battery charging IMO... Certainly if I've let my battery run flat then I give it 24+ to ensure the charger can actually get it full and do a conditioning cycle. And that's with a 5 amp CTEK. Weaker chargers I'd want to leave as long as possible.

For state of charge business... I like to use a multimeter and read the actual battery voltage! Much more informative than "The charger light went green".

I had an AGM in my old Smart that died after not driving it in a sub-zero Christmas break. Reconditioned it on the CTEK and it bounced back fine. I went to replace it the next winter just in case, and discovered it was the factory OEM battery - 13 years old :eek:
 
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