Could my mobo be dying?

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6 Aug 2011
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Hi guys

Bit of an odd one I cant get my head around. If anyone could help I'd greatly appreciate it.

PC has been working fine up until yesterday.

First issue. Yesterday

Downloading an update on steam, got to the end of the update and it said disk write error.

Moved said game to C: drive instead of the other drive I have for games, updates fine.

Shutdown fine no issues

Second issue. Today

Same problem, different game wouldn't update due to a disk error.

Installed crystaldisk to check drives are all healthy, they are.

Uninstalled Steam to try and reinstall and see if that fixes problem.

After shutting down and restarting, my WiFi adapter is saying in device manager "This device cannot start. (Code 10)"

After multiple restarts I've noticed on startup it's taking an extremely long time to get through the post screen and boot into windows and when it does, it's almost like windows is stuttering, the sound is jumping and only partially playing. It stays the same when you move the volume slider. Sort of fades and stutters in and out.

I've tried restoring back to the 24th of this month, long before I had any issues with no luck.

I've just recently managed to get into the BIOS but it's laggy, extremely laggy, I'm talking like I move the mouse and it moves on screen 10-15 seconds later?

Anybody seen anything like this before?

Specs are below.

Ryzen 9 7900x
Nvidea 3080
32gb ddr5 6000mhz
Gigabyte aorus x670 elite ax
 
I'd probably reseat the CPU just in case there's a contact issue with any of the pads. If you have a large heatsink on your CPU, the weight of this may cause problems too, especially if the heatsink has been improperly installed so it causes issues - again with the CPU pads and motherboard contacts. Of course, maybe the Ryzen 9 doesn't suffer these problems like some Intel CPUs do, but it's something to consider.

While you've got the case open, reseat the RAM too, blowing into the slots to ensure no dust or dirt is on the contacts. You might as well reseat the M.2 drives too, again try blowing into the slots.

The next thing I would do is to reset the BIOS to defaults then see if it needs updating. The same for your drives, ensure they have the latest firmware installed.

Finally maybe try the BIOS with only drive at a time installed, maybe one of them is causing the issue. Do the same with each RAM stick.
 
I'm unsure about anything being seated wrong as the pcs established and has been working without fault for over a year and a half. The cpu also has an AIO so nothing to heavy being held up.

I've just tried clearing CMOS and it hasn't made a difference.

I now can't even boot into windows. It's doing the whole automatic repair malarkey and blue screening....

Going from bad to worse at this point.
 
Fair enough. Things do seem to be pointing to one of the drives. I'd be tempted to grab what files you need from the drive, wipe it, then reinstall Windows.
 
Downloading an update on steam, got to the end of the update and it said disk write error.

Moved said game to C: drive instead of the other drive I have for games, updates fine.
What is the model of your drives?

Installed crystaldisk to check drives are all healthy, they are.
Health report doesn't always respond to the smart data, it depends.
 
What is the model of your drives?


Health report doesn't always respond to the smart data, it depends.
I have a Corsair Force MP510 500gb nvme as a boot drive, a Samsung 980 pro 1tb for games and an extremely old 2tb HDD that was completely empty that I was transferring some tv shows to from another PC I use as a server earlier today before it all went wacky.

Currently I'm edging towards PSU as the PC is now completely dead. No LEDs or anything, tried multiple kettle plugs and sockets and it's completely kaput.
 
What's the make and model of the PSU and how old is it? Most decent PSUs will last at least 5 years, usually up to 10 or more.

Edit:

The above link looks decent at telling you how to test your PSU and what voltages you need to look out for on the multimeter.
 
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Corsair RM850, bought on 28th September 2020...

Literally had four years to the day.

the original rm series, i had a few of them, one i sold here developed a issue was rma'd and replaced, if your system is not powering on at all i would say somethings gone wrong with your unit, do you have a spare kettle cable to try just in case it will powerup?
 
the original rm series, i had a few of them, one i sold here developed a issue was rma'd and replaced, if your system is not powering on at all i would say somethings gone wrong with your unit, do you have a spare kettle cable to try just in case it will powerup?
I have tried a new kettle plug, and directly from a socket rather than my extension lead.

Looking up requirements aswell, looks like I'm right on the edge with 850 watt, if under full load I've been constantly taking it to the edge of its capability i think it would fail quicker than normal.
 
I have tried a new kettle plug, and directly from a socket rather than my extension lead.

Looking up requirements aswell, looks like I'm right on the edge with 850 watt, if under full load I've been constantly taking it to the edge of its capability i think it would fail quicker than normal.

850w is within spec for your build, even if you stress the cpu and gpu to 100% you'll be around 490w (asuming you run a FE gpu) with fans and drives you wont be much more than mid 550w max, but again if the pc wont power up even after trying a new cable and via the wall socket points to a psu problem.

which 3080 in particular do you have a FE or a aib with 3x8pins?
 
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850w is within spec for your build, even if you stress the cpu and gpu to 100% you'll be around 490w (asuming you run a FE gpu) with fans and drives you wont be much more than mid 550w max, but again if the pc wont power up even after trying a new cable and via the wall socket points to a psu problem.

which 3080 in particular do you have a FE or a aib with 3x8pins?
A terrible Gigabyte eagle 3080, 2x8pins
 
A terrible Gigabyte eagle 3080, 2x8pins

Ah right a stock 3080 with 2x8 pins will pull upto 320w max, if you overclock it and raise the power limits you can push upto 375w, even then the 850w psu is still ok, but you would be getting close but nothing to worry. At 320w though you would have nothing to worry about.
 
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I'm gonna play around with it some more in the morning, I want to check there's no fuse or something I've popped when I've been ******* with it, I just think it's strange that it was at least booting and then as soon as I unplug, clear CMOS and remove one stick of ram it completely died.

Thanks all for your help, I'll check back in tomorrow after I've poked it with a large stick.
 
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