Soldato
I think its as good as its going to get without changing the block or adding more radiator. If you are desperate for temps CLU would knock off a few degrees but its a bit messy and hard to clean.
could you give me some more Info on the bus ?You have plenty of safe overclocking room. I would let it not go past 60 degrees under normal use for extended periods of time. This is not 60 degrees under prime but under a few hours of gaming, if that's what you do with your rig.
1.45 would be enough voltage for you to hit a substantial overclock, while keeping sensible temps i would imagine. Turn off turbo and auto voltage though. Auto usually overestimates the voltage you need and turbo may clock your CPU speed past stable limits after you set an overclock. I use to run my 8150 set up at 1.5V 24/7 without issue, though that chip was golden (bash BD all you want but this specific chip beat the vast majority of the PDs i have clocked and i have clocked many!).
If you are after a modest quick clock, try x22 multiplier at 1.4V. If that is stable, drop the voltage and see how low you can go before the chip disagrees. If it is not stable, bump the voltage. I have seen some people get away with 1.35 for x22 and some needing 1.44, its mostly chip and cooling dependent. Pray to the silicon god!
If you want to hit higher clocks and are willing to spend time clocking, i would start off with the bus rather than multiplier. Turn memory down to its lowest multiplier to minimize memory errors while finding your clock. Turn turbo, CnQ and simialr features off and set voltage to manual. Then start upping the bus bit by bit, upping voltage when you need it and stability testing using gaming if your a gamer. It would surprise me to see a 8320, which is sufficiently cooled, to not be able to hit 4.7Ghz at the least by using this method. When the bus clocking is done, you can turn emmory multiplier up to the nearest frequency it is rated at. If you start to get memory errors, send a voltage bump tot he CPU/nb or turn the memory down a notch to see if it helps. After that is all done and you still want more clocks, play with the multiplier adjusting bus up and down, all the best clocks on fx chips are usually done by changing both multi and bus whether it is going up or going down.
Thanks Guys,
I've re done everything now, check the block, sorted the fittings, set everything as default in bios, emptied and refilled the loop, added new thermal paste.
running CPUID HWMonitor to check temps im getting starting temp of 32c
Ive now re run prime95 and getting a temp of 45c better then before but im assuming it should be better.
Might just be an optical illusion, but the tubing at the top looks quite kinked. That will obviously cause problems with the flow, although not to the extent it would massively increase temps I wouldn't think.
I will double check, if there is a kink how do i remove it ?
Either longer tubing, or angled fittings.
Or if you don't want to redo your loop again: http://www.overclockers.co.uk/search_results.php?keywords=smartcoil&_=1399578454848
Tbh though, you're using quite an old waterblock, which is most likely why your temps are around that of some of the newer CLCs. Each generation block improved temps by a few degrees.. Add up all of the generations behind you are and the difference is quite substantial.
That is normal, voltage drops under load. Use LLC or just increase the manual voltage to even it out. Dont use the same as auto, as it is normally too high.
If you read some of the guides, you can familiarize yourself more with the settings.