Damp

Tea Drinker
Don
Joined
13 Apr 2010
Posts
18,419
Location
Sunny Sussex
I've read it takes 6 weeks to dry out the house.

Now. How does it work exactly? Its just pumping air into the house. Do I need to leave a window open, leave them closed? What's the deal?

Your house won't be sealed enough to need to need to open a window. It'll find it's way out, plug and play as such. It's better for security as well you won't need to leave windows open in the warmer months.
 
Associate
Joined
5 Mar 2019
Posts
69
If you don't have any mechanical ventilation then add a drimaster before anything.

I bet you have plastic windows in a house designed for timber and no ventilation. If its Victorian it probably had open fires which produce a flow and heat the fabric now probably blocked off.

I have a 1922 Detached, solid brick, condensation aplenty, it would be pooling on the windows and ledge, fusty smell throughout. Fitted a Drimaster Heat early November and it has completely solved all of the issues, air feels fresh, zero condensation anywhere. 100% recommend, I was sceptical but it is absolutely fantastic.

In addition to this make sure pointing is sound, brick faces havent burst and mastic seals around windows are intact, make sure gutters etc. arent blocked.
 
Soldato
OP
Joined
22 Nov 2010
Posts
5,713
I have a 1922 Detached, solid brick, condensation aplenty, it would be pooling on the windows and ledge, fusty smell throughout. Fitted a Drimaster Heat early November and it has completely solved all of the issues, air feels fresh, zero condensation anywhere. 100% recommend, I was sceptical but it is absolutely fantastic.

In addition to this make sure pointing is sound, brick faces havent burst and mastic seals around windows are intact, make sure gutters etc. arent blocked.

cheers thats reassuring to know. i dont expect it to 100% cure all issues but the mrs is convinced the windows need replacing. before i go down that route this seems like a great thing to reduce it a lot.

we tend to get damp walls/mould in 3 places.

1. main bedroom chimney, the back wall inside the builders opening. (when its raining really hard i do hear drips in the chimney though - has been capped)

2. the 2nd reception room corner of the building. this could be guttering related, ground isnt high outside here and no pooling of water or anything.

3. the 3rd bedroom wall. guttering seems fine, roof seems fine (original roof all over which could probably do with replacing but thats something ill do when i get the loft converted) . this room is my least favourite room in the house. super cold in the winter, super hot in the summer. sloped roof (not insulated corretly) basically has rolls of insulation in the plastic still.

has no loft access but when renovating i removed a light switch so could see up in the area partially.
 
Associate
Joined
5 Mar 2019
Posts
69
cheers thats reassuring to know. i dont expect it to 100% cure all issues but the mrs is convinced the windows need replacing. before i go down that route this seems like a great thing to reduce it a lot.

we tend to get damp walls/mould in 3 places.

1. main bedroom chimney, the back wall inside the builders opening. (when its raining really hard i do hear drips in the chimney though - has been capped)

2. the 2nd reception room corner of the building. this could be guttering related, ground isnt high outside here and no pooling of water or anything.

3. the 3rd bedroom wall. guttering seems fine, roof seems fine (original roof all over which could probably do with replacing but thats something ill do when i get the loft converted) . this room is my least favourite room in the house. super cold in the winter, super hot in the summer. sloped roof (not insulated corretly) basically has rolls of insulation in the plastic still.

has no loft access but when renovating i removed a light switch so could see up in the area partially.

Regarding the chimney, is it ventilated on each floor where the fireplaces would have been? And if its capped, is the cap vented? Or literally capped with a slab? If so this can cause issue.

External wall corners are particularly bad, we had issues with mold behind furniture on external walls - Drimasters solved this (mold still needed to be cleaned, but it hasnt returned).

Regarding your 3rd bedroom - if its an old house, it should be a naturally vented roof, loft insulation should be above the rafters only and not stuffed into the eaves/soffit to allow ventilation.

As said check your gutters, roof flashings etc. Just because a roof is 'old' it shouldnt make a difference if it isnt leaking, ours is on the original tiles and is watertight.

As said though 100% recommend the Drimaster, I was sceptical and it is expensive, but well worth it. If you are even remotely competant you can install it. Wiring isnt that difficult either, it can be taken off a lighting circuit with a junction box. I would also go for the 'Heat' model as this takes the chill off the air coming in.
 
Soldato
OP
Joined
22 Nov 2010
Posts
5,713
Regarding the chimney, is it ventilated on each floor where the fireplaces would have been? And if its capped, is the cap vented? Or literally capped with a slab? If so this can cause issue.

External wall corners are particularly bad, we had issues with mold behind furniture on external walls - Drimasters solved this (mold still needed to be cleaned, but it hasnt returned).

Regarding your 3rd bedroom - if its an old house, it should be a naturally vented roof, loft insulation should be above the rafters only and not stuffed into the eaves/soffit to allow ventilation.

As said check your gutters, roof flashings etc. Just because a roof is 'old' it shouldnt make a difference if it isnt leaking, ours is on the original tiles and is watertight.

As said though 100% recommend the Drimaster, I was sceptical and it is expensive, but well worth it. If you are even remotely competant you can install it. Wiring isnt that difficult either, it can be taken off a lighting circuit with a junction box. I would also go for the 'Heat' model as this takes the chill off the air coming in.

ive found the heat model with hall control for £391 so not particularly expensive in the grand scheme of things, if it improves the dampness and some mould then its paying for itself in health benefits alone.

the 3rd bedroom is the one i need to concentrate on the most. my 2 daughters share a room currently but its going to be sooner rather than later that they'll want their own space and im not comfortable them sleeping in a room with reoccurring mould.

have been tempted to just paint the wall with bathroom paint but then thats just masking the issue rather than solving. have also though about forming a wall inside the existing one with a cavity and then insulating but then again this is covering the issue and the mould would still form behind.

azXvpVK

roof https://imgur.com/gallery/azXvpVK
 
Associate
Joined
5 Mar 2019
Posts
69
ive found the heat model with hall control for £391 so not particularly expensive in the grand scheme of things, if it improves the dampness and some mould then its paying for itself in health benefits alone.

the 3rd bedroom is the one i need to concentrate on the most. my 2 daughters share a room currently but its going to be sooner rather than later that they'll want their own space and im not comfortable them sleeping in a room with reoccurring mould.

have been tempted to just paint the wall with bathroom paint but then thats just masking the issue rather than solving. have also though about forming a wall inside the existing one with a cavity and then insulating but then again this is covering the issue and the mould would still form behind.

azXvpVK

roof https://imgur.com/gallery/azXvpVK

Try the Drimaster, get some mold cleaner, clean the walls and repaint, I think you will be pleasantly surprised in a few weeks.
 
Permabanned
Joined
24 Jul 2016
Posts
7,412
Location
South West
I purchased the standard non heating model as I wasn’t very keen on a continuous 400w power draw. Must admit the hallway gets a bit chilly during the winter months but I can put up with that.

We have no obvious signs of mould ever since I’ve fitted a combination bathroom and kitchen extractor fans and the drimaster/dehumidifier. Compared to the previous occupants I think we now have a healthy mould free house.

Easy to fit as well. Hardest part is electrical connection if don’t have a supply in your loft.
 
Soldato
Joined
1 Mar 2010
Posts
21,926
indeed the older thread was sceptical over the benefit of the heating model, the potential loft 'smell' (ours is full of boxes/stuff too), also, rests my concern.
 
Associate
Joined
5 Mar 2019
Posts
69
indeed the older thread was sceptical over the benefit of the heating model, the potential loft 'smell' (ours is full of boxes/stuff too), also, rests my concern.

No odor at all, the heat cannot be retrofitted but can be turned off, so I think it was worthwhile.
 
Associate
Joined
12 Dec 2006
Posts
1,382
is there a smaller version of the drimaster for 1 room?
i have utility room with an adjacent toilet and for some reason the two outside walls of the toilet seem to be solid brick (only wall on the house to be like that). and in the winter the amount of condensation on the walls needs mopping from the floor in the mornings! im fed up of having to constantly wash the 2 wallsof mold in the winters.
i have no other condensation problems in the house just the one room which is annoying.
 
Soldato
Joined
14 Mar 2005
Posts
16,821
Location
Here and There...
Repointing is often a good idea on a vitorian house as when the pointing fails you inevitably get damp comming into the property, I would also recomend externally sealing the walls after you've pointed using using StormDry (http://www.stormdry.com/products/masonry-protection-cream) it's not cheap but is brilliant stuff last longer than traditional brick sealers and is breathable. Made a noticeable difference in our house particularly on the walls facing the prevailing wind.
 
Back
Top Bottom