Damp

Electroshadow said:
is there a smaller version of the drimaster for 1 room?
i have utility room with an adjacent toilet and for some reason the two outside walls of the toilet seem to be solid brick (only wall on the house to be like that). and in the winter the amount of condensation on the walls needs mopping from the floor in the mornings! im fed up of having to constantly wash the 2 wallsof mold in the winters.
i have no other condensation problems in the house just the one room which is annoying.
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Just use a fan which is exactly what a drimaster is. It blows air into your house to create positive pressure.

Or a dehumidifier which will take the moisture out of the air.
 
Doobedoo said:
Or a dehumidifier which will take the moisture out of the air.
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yes - not sure what the price differential is, but trying a dehumidifier first, without the expense of a drimaster install, might be expediant.
dehumidifier would have more resaleable value,if you did want to, later, go drimaster
 
We had cavity wall insulation installed under the government system a while back thinking it would save a few quid and keep the home warmer. Worst thing we did really. Whilst it defiantly keeps the place warmer the place is like a Tupperware box and moisture can't escape resulting in damp patches in colder spots. As a result, we had to get a dehumidifier which the running costs of that wipe out any savings we "supposedly" make on the heating.
 
Yes, relations had the cavity wall insulation , its not too bad, but, they close all the trickle vents in winter too.

Getting a humidity meter can help get some objective data too - earlier posts - room ones, are cheap, but I guess not the probe ones.
 
We have some condensation issues on windows etc that I wanted to remedy, the Drimaster looked good from another thread I saw it on here, however when looking into it further, the filters used are only G3 rated, which means all those lovely loft insulation particulates that can cause you all manner of lung cancers will pass right through and be circulated around your house. I don't want my children breathing this over the next few decades really, I know what damage it causes. This put me off entirely from purchasing it, so back to square one, guessing dehumidifier of some description.
 
jpaul said:
yes - not sure what the price differential is, but trying a dehumidifier first, without the expense of a drimaster install, might be expediant.
dehumidifier would have more resaleable value,if you did want to, later, go drimaster
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You'll need a desiccant type which will be more effective in colder temps or if your bathroom is warm, then something like a meaco platinum that we have will cost less to run.
 
Lord-Jaffa said:
We have some condensation issues on windows etc that I wanted to remedy, the Drimaster looked good from another thread I saw it on here, however when looking into it further, the filters used are only G3 rated, which means all those lovely loft insulation particulates that can cause you all manner of lung cancers will pass right through and be circulated around your house. I don't want my children breathing this over the next few decades really, I know what damage it causes. This put me off entirely from purchasing it, so back to square one, guessing dehumidifier of some description.
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Replace loft insulation for sheep's wool? or rig up some kind of hepa filter box.
 
Doobedoo said:
Replace loft insulation for sheep's wool? or rig up some kind of hepa filter box.
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I suppose some kind of hepa filter box would be possible, no way I'm earth im removing all that loft insulation! For the price of the unit I'd have expected a better filter though, especially when considering where the air is being circulated from.
 
Admiral Huddy said:
We had cavity wall insulation installed under the government system a while back thinking it would save a few quid and keep the home warmer. Worst thing we did really. Whilst it defiantly keeps the place warmer the place is like a Tupperware box and moisture can't escape resulting in damp patches in colder spots. As a result, we had to get a dehumidifier which the running costs of that wipe out any savings we "supposedly" make on the heating.
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This is because you've likely bridged the cavity. The whole point in a cavity wall is to keep the wet (outer) wall away from the dry (inner) wall. The moisture can now transfer across as they've filled it. If you look at the wall ties you'll see they twist to allow moisture to drip off the centre rather than run along to the inner wall.

I'd call them back, there are plenty of people suing the government/installers. A very quick google: https://www.slatergordon.co.uk/medi...-wall-insulation-problems-what-are-my-rights/
 
Lord-Jaffa said:
I suppose some kind of hepa filter box would be possible, no way I'm earth im removing all that loft insulation! For the price of the unit I'd have expected a better filter though, especially when considering where the air is being circulated from.
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I guess they don't consider it to be much of an issue. I can't see it being an issue either unless you regularly disturb your insulation. If you were that bothered about air quality you would have a sealed house and a proper ventilation system fitted, not going to be cheap though.
 
quick google - drimaster (or, is it, a reseller) side-step the question

https://www.drimaster-piv-condensation-system.co.uk/faqs-qustions-answers-piv-drimaster/
All lofts constructed pre and slightly after (while stocks lasted) 1980 are asbestos riddled (comes from soffits and other fire retardant materials used being rubbed as houses vibrate and move, grinding these up, even concrete roof tiles) not to mention fiberglass, so my question is, what certificate is there making the filters on these units safe? And how are they changed safely once blocked with said asbestos particulates? And finally how often must they be changed? No one seems to have information on this, is it the elephant in the room? Is it not believed to be an issue? (it is)? Is love to buy one but need more info, can you help?

If you have asbestos or potential of, or you think you have, then get an expert in and do not DIY. Obvious really. Personally if there was any risk of asbestos I’d have that sorted before considering PIV – and I would not consider PIV in the situation you describe regardless of spec! Mice can make holes. So, if you think you have asbestos – get an expert surveyour in.
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equally cannot see exactly what the flow rate it ... they just specify 0.16W/litre for the power consumption ... how much suck does it have, for the exposed fibreglass in the loft.
 
SeatIbiza said:
This is because you've likely bridged the cavity. The whole point in a cavity wall is to keep the wet (outer) wall away from the dry (inner) wall. The moisture can now transfer across as they've filled it. If you look at the wall ties you'll see they twist to allow moisture to drip off the centre rather than run along to the inner wall.

I'd call them back, there are plenty of people suing the government/installers. A very quick google: https://www.slatergordon.co.uk/medi...-wall-insulation-problems-what-are-my-rights/
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I’m so glad you said this. I regularly have to bite my tongue when people bleat on about how well insulated their cavity brick houses are having filled (and ruined) the cavity. Also when they have had the undersides of their lofts insulated with sprayed foam - lol this stuff restricts air flow and causes interstitial condensation which then causes rot.

Houses need to breath to stay dry.

It’s not fair on the public all these insulation schemes and gimmicks
 
fastwunz said:
I’m so glad you said this. I regularly have to bite my tongue when people bleat on about how well insulated their cavity brick houses are having filled (and ruined) the cavity. Also when they have had the undersides of their lofts insulated with sprayed foam - lol this stuff restricts air flow and causes interstitial condensation which then causes rot.

Houses need to breath to stay dry.

It’s not fair on the public all these insulation schemes and gimmicks
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Blame the EU...it's the stupid EPC nonsense that has led to this. I've never come across a more made up load of crap, the people doing them have no real knowledge of buildings. It will be interesting when they ban gas boilers as to an EPC surveyor gas = good rating! I've also known EPCs done by online sources that have never even been to the property...
 
jpaul said:
equally cannot see exactly what the flow rate it ... they just specify 0.16W/litre for the power consumption ... how much suck does it have, for the exposed fibreglass in the loft.
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That's listed in the installation instructions:

Speed - Litres/second
1 10
2 20
3 30
4 40
5 50
6 60
 
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