Desk Project Log

The edge of the groove will be weaker without the bit at each end joining the two sides together.
The tenon may be slightly stronger but is more difficult to cut perfectly and could be less aesthetically pleasing as a result.
These tenons look covered in your design so it will not matter anyway and is purely a personal preference
 
Following this project with great interest, I don't want to build a desk myself but would love to get into carpentry!
Do you have a list of tools you're using for this project?
 
Deep said:
Following this project with great interest, I don't want to build a desk myself but would love to get into carpentry!
Do you have a list of tools you're using for this project?
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Titan pillar drill. Not essential, but it is handy for driilling straight. I have a cordless Makita drill/screwdriver which I use occasionally as well. There's a 9mm drill bit in there right now for helping with the 9mm mortises. You can also see a marking square and tape measure to the left for measuring and marking and (trying to) keep things square.



Makita mitre saw. Probably essential I'd say, for cutting every piece to the right length quickly and accurately. I can't cut straight by hand to save my life, and even if I could it would be a lot of work. If I was to buy a new one, I'd probably look for one with a sliding arm, so you can cut wider pieces than the blade alone would allow.



Evolution table saw. The newest and biggest tool I own. Haven't used it extensively, but I don't think I'd have been able to cut the tenons without it. Probably essential for any quantity of "real" woodworking.



Makita router/trimmer. Essential. I don't own a full-size router, but this has done everything I really need up to now. Very handy gadget. Use it for cutting grooves, mortises, and a variety of edge profiles, though I tend to stick with a simple 1/4" round-over on most things I make.

And then a variety of hand tools for smaller or more intricate tasks - metal ruler, marking square, tape-measure, hack-saw, chisels, files, etc. Some essential, some not - depends on what you need to do.

On the software side, I spend ages fiddling in Sketchup before cutting anything! I keep meaning to learn something like Fusion360, but haven't got around to it yet.
 
Nice project! A custom (albeit much more basic) desk is something I'd love to do if given the time, space and tools.

Good updates, though that Christmas deadline is fast approaching :eek: Will you be carving the turkey on the table saw I wonder... :D
 
petridish said:
Nice project! A custom (albeit much more basic) desk is something I'd love to do if given the time, space and tools.

Good updates, though that Christmas deadline is fast approaching :eek: Will you be carving the turkey on the table saw I wonder... :D
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Ah, maybe a bit of miscommunication! I never intended to have it finished for Christmas, and indeed, it's not going to be. I do have to pack all the wood and tools away (somewhere!) so the room can be reclaimed for the Christmas dinner though!
 
nightwish said:
Ah, maybe a bit of miscommunication! I never intended to have it finished for Christmas, and indeed, it's not going to be. I do have to pack all the wood and tools away (somewhere!) so the room can be reclaimed for the Christmas dinner though!
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Ah I see! The true meaning of Christmas, relocating the usual mess until the family are all gone then moving it back again. At least that's what it is in my house
 
So, didn't really intend to drop this project for a whole year, but somehow, kids, work and life in general got in the way. Picking it up again now though.

I've got all the web frames glued up. 8 altogether. I'm pretty happy with 6 of them, but 2 could be better. They just got skewed a little bit, probably due to naff joinery. I think they'll probably be OK, but will try a test fit once the other pedestal components are complete and if I'm still not happy, I'll have to order a few spare parts and remake them.



Onto the pedestal sides now. Here's an exploded view:



And here's all the parts cut to length:

 
Looking good, is this being painted? Personally and this is just my preference I'd have put a slight chamfer on the stile and tenon shoulder as a small detail
 
darreny said:
Looking good, is this being painted?
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Thanks. Nope, I like the look of the wood. The frame is just pine and plywood, but the top and drawer fronts are oak, and I think it's a shame to cover up nice wood with paint (although an all-black frame with the oak top and drawer fronts could look pretty bad-ass!)

Gonna use this Osmo stuff instead. Never used it before, but a lot of the YouTubers recommend it. It's not cheap, so I hope it's worth it!



For the frame: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0058BC1T4
For the top: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00J5MK7EI

darreny said:
Personally and this is just my preference I'd have put a slight chamfer on the stile and tenon shoulder as a small detail
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Interesting idea. Like this you mean?



It would be easy enough to do, but I think I like the plain look, though it may not be to everyone's tastes. Will consider it before assembly.
 
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This is another impressive first desk project. I want to re-do my desk/hobby area with something more solid than an Ikea £25 top and legs (although it has survived over ten years so far.

I only have an alcove with two good wall and a bit of chimney breast but intend to make a budget desk (1220x650mm) from a double layer of 18mm ply. I can get both pieces and the top and sides of an Alex style drawer unit from one sheet and then use 12mm ply for the actual drawers.

The desktop can be supported on wall battens on the left side and back, with the right side being on the drawer unit. My PC will get moved off the desk and onto a floor pedestal on the left (it stays very cool there even in a heatwave). I want to have a 800 monitor shelf so I can tuck the keyboard amd mouse out the way for hobby use and still have my daylight lamp attached to the desk, unless it will work attached to a full width shelf.

I have a drill and driver, dewalt mains circular saw (needs a fine cut blade), jigsaw, 1/4" Trend router and chisels. Most of it bought just before wood prices went mental alright lockdown :p.

Hope you get this finished to the quality you want and will be following with interest.
 
Watching.

Not to be safety Sam but I can see you are running the table saw without a blade guard or riving knife. I appreciate you cant use them with some cuts but PLEASE watch a load of videos about table saw safety if you dont have experience working with one.

It is SO EASY to cause a kickback and 192829101 ways to lose a finger. Even seasoned pros can mess up when not paying attention. Even what seems like the simplest and safest cut could be dangerous. For examples....running a piece wider than it is long through the blade against the fence......kickback central!

As an example:
009.jpg


You shouldn't run this cut against the fence. You can place a stop block on the fence just before the blade to set your cut position but the piece shouldn't touch the fence or stop block when you run it though.

Like this:

 
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Sin_Chase said:
Watching.

Not to be safety Sam but I can see you are running the table saw without a blade guard or riving knife. I appreciate you cant use them with some cuts but PLEASE watch a load of videos about table saw safety if you dont have experience working with one.

It is SO EASY to cause a kickback and 192829101 ways to lose a finger. Even seasoned pros can mess up when not paying attention. Even what seems like the simplest and safest cut could be dangerous. For examples....running a piece wider than it is long through the blade against the fence......kickback central!

As an example:
009.jpg


You shouldn't run this cut against the fence. You can place a stop block on the fence just before the blade to set your cut position but the piece shouldn't touch the fence or stop block when you run it though.

Like this:

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It's fine to run a piece like in the picture as it's guided by a mitre gauge. The issue is when someone tries to cut the right hand end of that wood with the left hand against the fence.
 
darreny said:
Are you doweling the doors?
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By doors, I assume you mean drawers? There are no doors on the project. If so, then maybe! Either that or this method of interlocking panels, which I quite like the look of, but would be a bit more work. I'd need a fancy jig for dovetails, which I haven't got (yet).

Sin_Chase said:
Watching.

Not to be safety Sam but...
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Appreciate the thought, but I'm aware. As I mentioned earlier, I'm cutting tenons with the riving knife and guard removed. This is a.) fine as it's not a through-cut, so no loose chunk of wood to go flying away, and b.) impossible to cut tenons otherwise, as the riving knife gets in the way. I'll put them back on for any through cuts.
 
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darreny said:
It's fine to run a piece like in the picture as it's guided by a mitre gauge. The issue is when someone tries to cut the right hand end of that wood with the left hand against the fence.
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I own Evolution tools and they are great bang for buck, I also know thier tolerances are not the greatest however. Even with the mitre gauge if that workpiece binds up the blade (Which it is liable to with the fence causing an obstruction) it will rip the entire piece up and possibly the gauge/clamp with it.

Mitre gauges are quick and easy but also pretty crappy. It's why most people tend ot build sleds for these kinds of cuts.

I cant quite see from Nightwish's picture but is that Mitre Gauge in a captive slot?

Kickbacks are not limited to through-cuts and loose off-cuts. The saw will easily, and happily, kickback the entire workpiece. The risk may be lessended with certain cuts but for the sake of using a stop block (and other methods) you can make a cut much safer with no real impact on performance or accuracy. I can see you are clamping your piece into the mitre gauge so it would work just fine with a stop block.

Anyway, it seems you have done your research and your own risk is your own to manage. Just wanted to check in to make sure as many people unbox a table saw and crack on. It is, arguably, one of the easiest tools to cause serious injury on and certainly one I give the most respect in my shed!
 
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Sin_Chase said:
I cant quite see from Nightwish's picture but is that Mitre Gauge in a captive slot?
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It is.

Sin_Chase said:
Anyway, it seems you have done your research and your own risk is your own to manage. Just wanted to check in to make sure as many people unbox a table saw and crack on. It is, arguably, one of the easiest tools to cause serious injury on and certainly one I give the most respect in my shed!
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Yep, definately worth raising regardless. Doesn't hurt to be reminded of these things from time to time. Complacency can be as dangerous as ignorance. I'm rather attached to my fingers, and I'd like to keep it that way!
 
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