I've got a mid-range De-Walt contractor table saw also with a couple of upgrades but if I was to ever repalce it I think I would go with a SawStop. Much more spendy but the older I get the more I am concious of my mortality and risk!
I can control the router much better with a secondary fence screwed to the base:
All parts for the pedestal sides grooved:
Mostly uneventful, but this knot popped out. Lesson learned - don't try to do joinery work that close to a big knot. No real harm done though - I'll put it on the inside of one of the back stiles, and no-one but me will ever know!
Lots of mortices. 2 each for the 8 legs/stiles and 1 each for the 4 top and bottom rails of the sides. 20 altogether. These are deeper than my router would go, so I drilled out as much as I could with the pillar drill and then used a chisel to clear out the rest. Harder work than just using the router for everything, that's for sure! Gives me new respect for the time and effort it would take to do everything by hand, like they did in the olden days!
As a reminder, here's how it should all fit together:
The main mortise-and-tenon joints will be reinforced with pegs/dowels going through both pieces, if that's what you mean? Probably unecessary for strength TBH, but I'll use oak pegs, which should contrast nicely with the pine which is used for all the frame parts.
I'd recommend clamping some waste on the back when knocking the dowel thru to avoid blowout. If you want to take it a step further you could offset the holes so it pulled the joint tight when driving the dowel in. Called draw boring
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