DIY repairs cleaning etc

I had a stick drifter and couldn't believe the amount of 'carbon' dust that had come out of the joystick module and was trapped under the joystick topper. The white one in the image was the drifter.

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Currently sitting Infront of one of my index controllers, it's in at least 10 pieces, the trigger had cracked and would stick in the pressed function. This is the first fix on this controller and the other has had 2 repairs already (grip and stick drift). Loathed to replace them with the frame due, but they have had over 1,000 hours of use.. fingers crossed it will go back together and last till then.
 
Bad news, the trigger support snapped in half, even after glueing back together. Found a reinforcement 3D print file for the index triggers on maker world, printing now.. fingers crossed I can salvage the trigger. Grrrrr weak supports
 
Good news, surgery complete and the patient survived... Trigger seems more firm than it was when new. Bit of a mission to fix the trigger, had to disassemble the head and body and split the casing on the under head shroud with a Dremel. If it was easier I would do the other controller... But it's not.
 
It's about time they started to design these controllers with repairability in mind. At least the Steam Frame's controllers are using hall-effect sticks. It's about time everyone else stopped using these flawed stick designs, or at least made them easy to swap out.
Also the batteries in these devices need to be easily replaceable without having to dismantle the whole controller.
 
It's a bit quiet in work at the moment, so a little project is needed.


Fix update. Initially, after plugging it in there was no sign of life from the headset. No charging LED or flat battery image on the screen. After several hours on charge there was still nothing happening. Time for a bit of 'Quest Blip Charging'. After several cycles, the red charge light came on for a couple of seconds and went off every time the wall socket to the power brick was switched on. Continued with the blip charging until the red light turned orange and then kept it on charge until it change to green.
Both lenses had slight scuff marks from a previous user wearing glasses. Polywatch to the rescue, and the lenses came up like new. Both the hands controllers worked but the right controller had a red charge dot when viewed in the headset, unlike the four green dots seen on the left controller, even though both batteries were fully charged. The right controller battery contact was slightly corroded and a quick clean with a rubber on the end of a pencil cleaned it up.
The right hand controller outer plastic tracking ring had a large crack on one side and a smaller crack on the other. There are some very good unmantle videos on youtube, but jesus! the rings are fiddly to tear down. Superglue was used on the cracks from the inside of the ring and then strips of cleaning cloth were applied over the cracks. It's industrial cleaning cloth on a roll and is impossible to rip or tear by hand. More superglue is applied to the strips to reinforce the cracked area. Fortunately, the cloth/glue combo is still IR transparent or translucent as the controller still tracks without issue.

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Awesome work! How exactly do you do the blip charging?

Has it now successfully charged/depleted a few times? What's the life like?
 
Awesome work! How exactly do you do the blip charging?

Has it now successfully charged/depleted a few times? What's the life like?

Thanks. Some blip charging info here.


I'm getting nearly two hours out of the headset but not intensive gaming. I don't know if previous discharge cycles count or how long it's been below the BMS minimum charge point. Hopefully more charge/discharge cycles will keep it healthy.
 
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