DIY repairs cleaning etc

@Unseul I've dismantled a Q2 controller as it had intermittent power issues depending on the length of the AA batteries fitted. My energiser rechargables are 2mm taller than energiser non rechargeables.... who knew.
Anyway, I have the negative terminal battery plunger spring extracted from the battery compartment, but the positive terminal is surrounded by a white floating insulator ring which goes into a tiny compartment at the other end of the battery compartment. Do you have a controller in bits to see how to release the pos terminal?

I'll try and take a look tomorrow or Monday.

If you look on YouTube there's a channel called fix my oculus, I think. They have a load of videos, check the shorts as well, they have a lot of stuff.
 
I'll try and take a look tomorrow or Monday.

If you look on YouTube there's a channel called fix my oculus, I think. They have a load of videos, check the shorts as well, they have a lot of stuff.

Thanks, I saw the fix-my-oculus videos but they all seem to stop before battery compartment PCB removal. It looks like the pos plunger is held in by latches but they're inside then tiny end compartment. I'll try and get some images on the USB microscope.
 
Bit of a amateur repair, but have you tried padding it with some kitchen foil?

Yeah, my brother's been doing that. So while it's in bits I'll-re tension the large negative terminal spring and re-solder the joints and it should be good to go. It seems they made the pos terminal disassembly impossible without destroying it. Half tempted to replace the joysticks with hall effect sticks while it's in dry dock.
 
Yeah, my brother's been doing that. So while it's in bits I'll-re tension the large negative terminal spring and re-solder the joints and it should be good to go. It seems they made the pos terminal disassembly impossible without destroying it. Half tempted to replace the joysticks with hall effect sticks while it's in dry dock.

Yeah, I can't see anyway to take it apart. Looks like the terminal is attached through the white bit directly onto the connection. I couldn't manipulate it clear. There's a possibility that you can push the the metal through enough to slip under the plastic ring, but I'm not confident and couldn't do it myself. There's a hint of a clip on the back of the ring too, but again I'm not sure.

I can post photos of what I got to, but by the sounds of it, it's no better than what you'd found anyway.
 
Yeah, I can't see anyway to take it apart. Looks like the terminal is attached through the white bit directly onto the connection. I couldn't manipulate it clear. There's a possibility that you can push the the metal through enough to slip under the plastic ring, but I'm not confident and couldn't do it myself. There's a hint of a clip on the back of the ring too, but again I'm not sure.

I can post photos of what I got to, but by the sounds of it, it's no better than what you'd found anyway.

Thanks for taking a look and confirming. I'm getting good and constant continuity between the pos terminal and the board, so I'm hoping stretching the neg terminal spring and reassembling should do the trick with different sized batteries. It seems to be a common problem. The vid shows the issue @ 2:00

 
After fixing the meta boot loop of death - https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/t...owners-thread.18902383/page-284#post-37507697
The headset was now stuck in headlock mode and kept going into standby. It seems this is a camera issue, and although they all looked good I got a replacement for £7.50 So I've got a 1 in 4 chance of picking the duff camera first time. Bingo! Now I just need some cheap controllers to complete the setup.

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Without controllers, the setup process stops at pairing. You can still link the headset to the mobile app and connect the headset to your wifi via the app. Games/apps can also be downloaded to the headset including the browser. The browser can then be launched from the mobile app and and viewed in the headset. Using the head cursor in the headset, you can click on the browser 'manage settings' which takes you to the main settings screen. From there you can enable hand tracking and any other settings you want. Apps and games can be launched from the app menu including PCVR. If you do get kicked back out to the controller setup screen again. Just launch the browser again and click on manage settings again using your VR hands. This headset is currently on V59
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Without controllers, the setup process stops at pairing. You can still link the headset to the mobile app and connect the headset to your wifi via the app. Games/apps can also be downloaded to the headset including the browser. The browser can then be launched from the mobile app and and viewed in the headset. Using the head cursor in the headset, you can click on the browser 'manage settings' which takes you to the main settings screen. From there you can enable hand tracking and any other settings you want. Apps and games can be launched from the app menu including PCVR. If you do get kicked back out to the controller setup screen again. Just launch the browser again and click on manage settings again using your VR hands. This headset is currently on V59
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Nice that you can work around not having controllers! Good to know. Probably a good scenario to own a pair of quest pro controllers, since they work with different headset gens.

How easy was the camera replacement?
 
Nice that you can work around not having controllers! Good to know. Probably a good scenario to own a pair of quest pro controllers, since they work with different headset gens.

How easy was the camera replacement?

looking at the meta forums, the pro controllers are not working with any headsets after the recent updates
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The camera replacement was mostly loads of screws to remove the inner and outer faceplate. There's also a single screw bracket holding the camera down, and 2 screws for the camera module itself. Note there's thermal paste under the camera. Screw fiddly but quite easy. It's easier if the camera is smashed so you know which one to change.
 
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