A neat solution to the controller battery disconnecting/no power problem. If you fit longer batteries, the positive terminal spring plunger can be pushed in beyond the height of the castellated insulator ring. If the battery is rotated either during insertion or removal the positive terminal spring plunger lugs can sit on top of the insulator ring castellations and stop it providing a constant positive pressure to the pos battery terminal.
DIY repairs cleaning etc
- Thread starter Unseul
- Start date
The q2 that's sold now? Stupid low price! Could definitely have been a fun project!
Yeah, I got lucky. Should be with me by the weekend.
This was doing the meta logo thing and then going straight to a black/grey screen on boot. Sounds like a duff proximity sensor. Swapped out the inner face shield/proximity sensor for my known working one and still no cheroot. Hmmm, further dismantlage reveals a damaged ribbon cable latch connector on the mobo which will need replacing. The headset's working, and I was able to update it successfully to V77 using the update tool. I also have a spare left controller for it which was a previous cheap stick drift fixer upper.
#fiddly
Last edited:
My left Quest Pro controller has developed stick drift. 
These were ones I exchanged at Argos after the previous set developed drift, but they don't do them any more.
I'll see if I can get the extended warranty to cover them.
I'm a bit loathed myself to repair it - I'm useless at these sorts of fiddly repairs.
These were ones I exchanged at Argos after the previous set developed drift, but they don't do them any more.I'll see if I can get the extended warranty to cover them.
I'm a bit loathed myself to repair it - I'm useless at these sorts of fiddly repairs.
My left Quest Pro controller has developed stick drift.
I'll see if I can get the extended warranty to cover them.
I'm a bit loathed myself to repair it - I'm useless at these sorts of fiddly repairs.
Potentiometer cleaning spray. From what I remember of the breakdown video, getting the face off is about the same as the other controller types, that would be enough to have a good spray, and hopefully clear out the debris (whilst also adding lubricant for the future).
Soldato
- Joined
- 14 Jun 2004
- Posts
- 8,263
i know looking at the video i'd break 2 clips and damage 3 ribbon cables..
on a good day..
more for completness : Quest 3 controller teardown
on a good day..
more for completness : Quest 3 controller teardown
Last edited:
It doesn't look like too tricky a repair but I'm just not confident about taking the controllers apart without breaking something. I wish there was a repair service for these.
Still, if I can't get an extended warranty replacement I might have to attempt it, or might be able to find someone at work who is skilled in these sorts of repairs.
The lubricating cleaner seems to cost about £10-12 once you factor in postage.
Still, if I can't get an extended warranty replacement I might have to attempt it, or might be able to find someone at work who is skilled in these sorts of repairs.
The lubricating cleaner seems to cost about £10-12 once you factor in postage.
Get a can of compressed air. It fixed the stick drift on my Quest 2 controllers. Didn't have to open the controllers or anything. YMMV of course but, it's worth trying at least.
I actually have a mains powered air duster. Might be worth a try.
Not sure what kind of powered air duster you have, but it might not have a small enough nozzle to work. I have an air powered duster as well, that I use for cleaning out computers and stuff, but it didn't work on the controllers because I had no attachment small enough.
If you can remove the cover plate from the sticky stuff and pull off the joystick topper you'll have way more access to the inner body of the joystick module. If you blast air at the controller when it's upside down, you'll have more chance of removing the carbon particles from the module instead of just moving them round.