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Yeah, realised I needed a newer OS if I'm going to use the SSD as a boot drive. So today, while I was getting Windows 8.1 I've also ordered another 1TB HDD and a fan controller.

What was supposed to be an upgrade is turning into a new PC...

I understand that feeling! I got a new case, PSU, some adapters and an OS. At this rate I'd be as well looking into buying some new storage as well! However, I'll save that until January when I can actually afford to. Can't wait to get it all up and running, my first gen i7 was getting really long in the tooth.
 
I can confirm , downloaded latest Win 10 installer and used my old win 7 key to install a fresh copy , works a treat but did also put the drivers from gigabyte site on the same usb stick and use them during install :cool:

So you didn't have to upgrade to windows 10 first? I thought I was going to have to upgrade my current setup to windows 10 first then, build the new set up and install Windows 10 but maybe not?
 
well what a pain in the ass that was but finally all up and running. having a watercooling loop just makes everything ten times harder im getting rid of this loop when the next gen graphics cards come out way to much hassle, i actually feel like selling my titan x and getting a 980ti.

getting the m.2 to work was a nightmare to because i didn't make a copy of windows 10 before i deleted windows 7, so i had to reinstall win 7 to make a win 10 bootable usb drive.

thanks for the help guys as i probably would have still been sitting here trying to get win 7 to recognise the m.2

now just to download my games again and do a bit of cable tidying
 
getting the m.2 to work was a nightmare to because i didn't make a copy of windows 10 before i deleted windows 7, so i had to reinstall win 7 to make a win 10 bootable usb drive.

thanks for the help guys as i probably would have still been sitting here trying to get win 7 to recognise the m.2

Great job getting it working, it took me 3 installs to work it out. Did your 7 key activate with 10 ok, seems I'm the only one it didn't work for. I thought it was the retail version maybe it was OEM and that's why.
 
It very much depends on what update version of Windows 10 you are trying to install from.

If you go to https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/software-download/windows10 and use the 'Download tool' to create a latest version DVD or USB install, then it should accept any genuine Win 7 or 8 Activation key... or so I am led to believe :)

(It is only in the last week or so that the latest Windows 10 version 1511 Build 10586 has become available, also known as TH2 )
 
guys I'm having issues with my NVME drive, tried the usual update bios etc etc. It's writes are horrendously slow and sometimes windows is very slow. is there any settings I should change for windows 10 or I might have missed something in bios?
 
guys I'm having issues with my NVME drive, tried the usual update bios etc etc. It's writes are horrendously slow and sometimes windows is very slow. is there any settings I should change for windows 10 or I might have missed something in bios?

I've not tried the drive out yet and I'm not in the least bit knowledgeable on it. However, for those that know it may help to specify whether you are using it with the adapter or not. Also how it's set with the BIOS and if you've downloaded any drivers.

Finally, what is horrendously slow?
 
It very much depends on what update version of Windows 10 you are trying to install from.

If you go to https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/software-download/windows10 and use the 'Download tool' to create a latest version DVD or USB install, then it should accept any genuine Win 7 or 8 Activation key... or so I am led to believe :)

(It is only in the last week or so that the latest Windows 10 version 1511 Build 10586 has become available, also known as TH2 )

Sweet, been waiting for this, kept meaning to see if this had dropped.
 
I too had a lot of problems with Windows 10 using the Windows 7 key. I think the key to this is to use the Microsoft Media Creation Tool, and make sure you select the "Create installation for another PC" option.

Even more fun I had the M2 SSD and another SSD in my PC when I booted it up from the USB. Windows decided to install to the standard SSD as there was no way from within the Windows install setup to know which of two 512GB drives was which :(

I suspect my ISP won't be that happy with me downloading all my games again. That will fill those drives :eek:

Does anyone else get the occasional sound (say once every two or three minutes) from their PC as if the cooler is passing an air bubble through the pump?
 
guys I'm having issues with my NVME drive, tried the usual update bios etc etc. It's writes are horrendously slow and sometimes windows is very slow. is there any settings I should change for windows 10 or I might have missed something in bios?

Have you loaded all the chipset drivers? Maybe that could be the reason
 
Worth noting that there are a lot of updated drivers on the gigabyte site, compared to the CD-ROM that's included with the motherboard.

There is a BIOS update available too which claims a couple of fixes for some drive stuff, albeit it states that it is a beta :confused:
 
hi guys
loving my pc so far :) however I do have a quick question I forgot to ask. on the motherboard there is an external Pcie power socket, which is apparently for when doing SLI. Now I am hoping this is not needed if you only want to do 2 way sli (which is my plan next year). if it is needed then someone at gigabyte must have been having a moment when designing the mobo, because how on earth can you plug anything in as the psu gets in the way.

has anyone else come accross this? and if so was it an error, and if so how did you plug in?

thanks

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb230/bigmike20vt/WP_20151129_11_53_25_Pro_zpsurrc7c5z.jpg
 
I've not plugged anything into that but only have a single GPU.

Having said that the i7 5820 only has 28 PCI lanes available. In some ways therefore it is the budget hexacore CPU and if you wanted SLI, the full bandwidth from the M2 drive, and such like then realistically perhaps the i7 5930 would have been the way to go?
 
I've not plugged anything into that but only have a single GPU.

Having said that the i7 5820 only has 28 PCI lanes available. In some ways therefore it is the budget hexacore CPU and if you wanted SLI, the full bandwidth from the M2 drive, and such like then realistically perhaps the i7 5930 would have been the way to go?

it isnt the absolute top of the range....... but budget it certainly isnt.

either way tho, it is a gamers motherboard so the cpu which goes in there does not effect the power socket. 8x pcie 3 lanes are fine for SLI imo.

As for the M2 SSD, again that is down to the board, not the chip, and it is a gaming motherboard..... either way though, its still very fast even at 50% speed.

Am not sure overclockers would agree with you that this is a budget system not suitable for 2 way SLI! ;)
 
So I appreciate the 2 bags of Harribo's in the box but I'd have swapped them for the forgotten 128GB SM951 SSD I was going to use as the boot drive!

Oh well I've still got tomorrow to build the system.
 
So I appreciate the 2 bags of Harribo's in the box but I'd have swapped them for the forgotten 128GB SM951 SSD I was going to use as the boot drive!

Oh well I've still got tomorrow to build the system.

The SSD is the 512GB version and are you sure you have not overlooked it? It is tiny, the bubblewrapped SSD is roughly the size of an adult middle finger. ;)

I'm trying to get my old head around the Asetek installation, thanks to the amazing instruction-less supply. ;)
So I add a washer to each of the 8 long screws, pass that through the slots in the roof of my new Luxe, through the fans and then screw them into the radiator?

Is the pre-applied thermal compound on the Asetek much worse than the Thermal Grizzly?

As mentioned by someone earlier, it looks extremely tight as regards the radiator fan cables reaching the PWM controller, with the radiator installed at the top of the Luxe.
 
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