Soldato
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Yeah you'll be looking at couple of hundred quid minimum
Something like wharefdale diamond sw-150 minimum.
I'm using a subwoofer similar to svs pb 1000 / pro for pc setup.
Edifier vs
- Thread starter uberjuba
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Yeah you'll be looking at couple of hundred quid minimum
Something like wharefdale diamond sw-150 minimum.
I'm using a subwoofer similar to svs pb 1000 / pro for pc setup.
I just got the M60 so figured this might be a thread to share thoughts, they are £160 but given the size, they IMO out-power many speakers that are even bigger than them. I've had Edifier's other compact speakers before and these are the smallest, barely bigger than my phone's face yet the sound is so big. If desk space is an issue then I can 100% recommend these to anyone who likes a wide soundstage with no muddying of highs, mids or lows whatever is being played.
I have had Edifier speakers for i think over 10 years now. Got them from OcUK. Not even sure which model of the top of my head.
Might consider upgrading to these based on your review.
Soldato
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Just checked that edifier is £130 and only 8"
Probably ok for under desk sub but little weedy
Maybe look into bk they have 10" sealed box sub will be better for close use. Smaller .
Probably ok for under desk sub but little weedy
Maybe look into bk they have 10" sealed box sub will be better for close use. Smaller .
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Edifier MR3's are sub £100 and are probably the best thing in that price bracket
There's a good review of them here with full measurements (@ 6:44)
There's a good review of them here with full measurements (@ 6:44)
How do these compare to the M60? I prefer the larger size of these. But is sounds better or at least the same?
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I would expect the MR3 to sound better overall despite being cheaper as the M60's are tiny. Edifier also market the MR3 as having a flat frequency response (good) whereas they don't for the M60's.
@mrk is there something about thr M60 spec wise anyway that would make you go for those over the MR3?
The MR3 looks to be the exact same size as the Edifier's I have at the moment. Would much prefer that size if possible. The M60 just looks too small.
The MR3 looks to be the exact same size as the Edifier's I have at the moment. Would much prefer that size if possible. The M60 just looks too small.
They arrived today. Only plugged them in recently so can't really test them until tomorrow really as too late. So far looks good though. Quite a bit smaller and lighter than Edifiers I have had for over 10 years.
The one's I currently have are the Edifier R1900T Mk II.
Here is the video:
Higher RMS than the M3's but I hardly every use them max volume anyway.
Based on specs, can anyone explain why the M3's are better? I assume the Edifier R1900T Mk II does not support Hi-Res Audio?
@mrk @ATIorNvidia
The one's I currently have are the Edifier R1900T Mk II.
Here is the video:
Higher RMS than the M3's but I hardly every use them max volume anyway.
Based on specs, can anyone explain why the M3's are better? I assume the Edifier R1900T Mk II does not support Hi-Res Audio?
@mrk @ATIorNvidia
Only you can answer that as you can check which bluetooth CODECs are being seen as supported from a phone in Developer Settings, likely to be AAC and SBC only given the age so no high res.
MR3 has a bigger cabinet so bass will naturally be a bit lower down the range.
MR3 has a bigger cabinet so bass will naturally be a bit lower down the range.
Oh I thought you meant wireless hi res audio. If wired digitally then yes 24/96 is the standard typically not that you'd ever need to run it at 96KHz, 24/48 or 32/48 is the generally accepted mode and the default for most USB connected amps/speakers/DACs etc. Windows 11 internally resolves all audio at 32 bit float so no reason not to just leave it at the max bit depth whether 24 or 32.
If connecting via analogue connection or optical to the speakers then the output is down to the capability of your PC's sound card.
If connecting via analogue connection or optical to the speakers then the output is down to the capability of your PC's sound card.
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There are ways to bypass the Windows buggery with programs like FUBAR and the like, but I imagine for most it just doesn't matter.
For Bluetooth there is tech such as aPTX which allows for lower latency, and I believe a solid wireless 24bit connection. If you're not using them via Bluetooth it doesn't really matter tbh.
@TNA When you get a moment to listen I'd appreciate a tag when you've gathered some impressions.
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Yeah my bad. I am a noob with this stuff tbf.
What i am wondering is specs wise what makes the M3's better? I get the feeling my old ones will have better base, but other than that the new ones should be better in every other way I would imagine?
Will do
The new ones will almost certainly have better stereo imaging, soundstage and pick out details with finer granularity, that's the advances in driver and tweeter engineering with newer generations. The cabinet size typically dictates the bass, although a long throw driver can get great bass in a smaller cabinet, still not as rich as a big cabinet but good enough to enjoy for sure.
You can bypass windows stack by using ASIO but it's pointless unless all of your music is in lossless format which I am 99% sure is not. It also means exclusive mode needs to be used so whilst that ASIO playback is going on, nothing else can use that output. You can sidestep it by enabling WASAPI instead which is shared and works fine but you need an audio player that supports WASAPI like MusicBee, Foobar etc. Bypassing is not necessary in modern times. Windows 11 does a fine enough job with its updated audio stack vs previous versions.
Only aptx LL supports low latency, aptx covers a wide range of CODECs all for specific uses. Be wary of this because LL must be supported by both ends and if on Windows then Windows absolutely will not use the best Bluetooth CODEC, you can only do this manually by installing a third party Bluetooth replacement for Windows (Alternative A2DP driver) where you can pick the highest quality bluetooth mode Windows uses for audio on a specific connected output device. Microsoft never cared about Bluetooth audio so even hi res headphones etc connecting to Windows will just use a baseline CODEC.
You can bypass windows stack by using ASIO but it's pointless unless all of your music is in lossless format which I am 99% sure is not. It also means exclusive mode needs to be used so whilst that ASIO playback is going on, nothing else can use that output. You can sidestep it by enabling WASAPI instead which is shared and works fine but you need an audio player that supports WASAPI like MusicBee, Foobar etc. Bypassing is not necessary in modern times. Windows 11 does a fine enough job with its updated audio stack vs previous versions.
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I run Foobar with ASIO because my audio collection absolutely is entirely lossless, but that's purely for stereo on decent gear and it's not a thing I revisit often, that and I use W10.
Regardless, I do appreciate the info as the entire Bluetooth bit is a bloody minefield.
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Had a play about finally. My impressions:
Old Edifiers louder and quite a bit more base. Naturally I guess as new ones 18 RMS each speaker, Old ones either 22 or 25 each. Also bigger cabinet and speakers obviously help here.
Tried high def music and the M3's slightly cleaner. Not a huge improvement. But it is there.
In games and not a huge difference. But if you do play games loud you miss out on the base. For clarity did not notice much difference here.
Tough one really. The M3's are excellent. But my R1900T Mk II's were very good already so hard to improve I suppose?
Also I am not a audiophile so someone else might appreciate things I am not.
I have decided to keep them. But mainly because I will give my old ones to the missus for her computer in her office.
I do wonder how much better much more expensive speakers would be. I am not really interested in how loud they go, the M3's more than loud enough for desktop pc imo.
Old Edifiers louder and quite a bit more base. Naturally I guess as new ones 18 RMS each speaker, Old ones either 22 or 25 each. Also bigger cabinet and speakers obviously help here.
Tried high def music and the M3's slightly cleaner. Not a huge improvement. But it is there.
In games and not a huge difference. But if you do play games loud you miss out on the base. For clarity did not notice much difference here.
Tough one really. The M3's are excellent. But my R1900T Mk II's were very good already so hard to improve I suppose?
Also I am not a audiophile so someone else might appreciate things I am not.
I have decided to keep them. But mainly because I will give my old ones to the missus for her computer in her office.
I do wonder how much better much more expensive speakers would be. I am not really interested in how loud they go, the M3's more than loud enough for desktop pc imo.
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