Electrical good practice guides

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I've just found these books through this site http://www.technicaltrainingsolutions.co.uk/electricians-guide.html

The books are half the price compared to on-site guides everywhere else

has anyone ever purchased books from this site before and would you recommend them ? if not...


What books would you recommend when it comes to design, installation to inspection and testing for domestic properties ?

I would like something which shows and explains all the different testing procedures, calculation for circuits ect.. preferably not some DIY book

Thanks
 
I think it was 'Part P Doctor' that I bought that explained everything in a straightforward manner. It's written by a sparky, so it's good from a practical point of view. I think I bought it direct

I've not got it to hand, so I can't check, but I'm pretty sure it covered everything from design to installation to testing.
 
The type of book you want I would recommend Guidance note 1 and Guidance note 3 they are not cheap though. The books you linked to look like they are written by the unite union I personally would avoid books written by unions. The only book I ever use for reference is the BS7671:2011 even though it is non statutory that's the book they will use against you should you ever go to court.
 
Best would be the official books but depends what you want to do / know

If your just doing basic / standard domestic stuff then you can just use the rules of thumb for most things no need to calculate really.

Inspection and testing if you don't want to splash out on the official book then i guess you wont have the test equipment anyway.
 
Most of the tables and such can be found online in dribs and drabs. Do you want it with a mind to doing the qualifications or for personal use?
 
Thanks guys, i'll look into that Part P Doctor and the official on site guide book

It's for my own personal use, I will be doing some renovation work on my own property.

I'm just weighing up the options, do the installation myself and get someone in to sign it off, or do the installation and testing myself although i'd need the equipment.

What equipment would you need as basic to pass off an installation and would it be worth purchasing it all just for personal use on your own home ?

I believe I read on here that someone wired there own house and they got approved and added to the list of approved electricians or something along them lines.
 
You can always post on here or DIYnot for advice if thats easier for you.

Tester wise you would probably be better off renting one than buying - quick Google crappy multifunction tester starts at £270 with decent around £460 discounted prices rrp like £800, so for 1 usage maybe rent. Plus needs to have a valid calibration cert. Or buy a used one from ebay and get it calibrated.

Afaik to get it signed off building control/the council would get someone to do all the testing anyway - not sure about this thought, better check, i have never had to use them.

Part p changed recently to allow someone else to sign off other peoples work afaik so look into this or get the council / building control to do it
 
For testing you need a proper multifunction tester, off the top of my head earth loop impedance, insulation resistance and possibly RCD testing where relevant?

I'm not a domestic spark, so don't take my word as gospel!

Set up your trust!
 
Thanks guys, i'll look into that Part P Doctor and the official on site guide book

It's for my own personal use, I will be doing some renovation work on my own property.

I'm just weighing up the options, do the installation myself and get someone in to sign it off, or do the installation and testing myself although i'd need the equipment.

What equipment would you need as basic to pass off an installation and would it be worth purchasing it all just for personal use on your own home ?

I believe I read on here that someone wired there own house and they got approved and added to the list of approved electricians or something along them lines.

That was me :). John Whitfield's Electricians Guide is a good book. That, the official BS7671 On Site Guide, the search function on DIYNot.com (which will bring up extensive discussion of the regulations and good practice on any matter you're unsure about by pros and knowledgeable DIYers), and the manual of the test equipment I used was all I needed to do my full rewire.

To go the route where you can test and inspect and submit the Electrical Installation Certificate yourself, you must first convince your Building Control you are 'competent' enough to do so. It's up to them if they will accept that or not. I have a piece of paper that says Electrical Engineering Degree and could say with some small degree of honesty I worked on electrical installations at work and had access to calibrated test equipment and the training to use it. I'd be the first to admit that the degree has nothing at all to do with why I knew what I was doing, but bureaucrats like pieces of paper :). Then you need the test equipment. A decent multi function tester isn't cheap, but you can probably hire them.

It might be easier to go the route of building control certification. Will cost a bit more than my route of just notifying and doing everything yourself, but building control will do all the inspection and testing.

The third party certification scheme HardwareGeek is probably referring to hasn't gotten off the ground yet as far as I'm aware. Last I read a few of the competent persons schemes applied to operate third party certification schemes, but I'm not sure if there are actually any 'registered third party certifiers' yet, or ever will be. You can't just drag any spark off the street and give them beer money to 'certify someone else's work'.

Have a read of Approved Document P if you haven't already.
 
Thanks Liam , I knew I had seen a post on here somewhere but I couldn't find it.

Anyway I received the Part P Doctor and OSG books yesterday and I have to say they are really good, The part p doctor book is broken down separately in to bite size chunks and helps you to understand from designing to testing.

I did a Mechanical and Electrical Engineering Lv2 course at college a couple of years a go so whether or not building control would deem that enough I don't know.

If I go the building control route and get them to inspect and test, I'm guessing
that everything will have to be left exposed for inspection from floorboards to check joists, wall chases, lights to sockets ect ?

How much would it costs to get building control to inspect and test roughly ?

I have a couple of questions you might be able to answer, when you fitted your CU, did you get the mains isolated by the elec board and how much did it cost if you did ?

How much in total did it cost you to re-wire your home if you don't me asking ?

I have TN-S install with an old 90A fuse, is this normal for today's standards ? i'm sure I read houses are installed with 100A now

I'll be sure to check out DIYforum, Thank you
 
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New houses are usually 100 A, but older houses might only have a 60A main fuse.

Council building control charges are capped by law. If you look on the council's website, they probably have a list of the fees there.
 
Guidance Note 3 is thee best book when it comes to Inspection & Testing.

The 17 Ed. BS7671:2008 amdt 2 is also a book you'll need, and the on-site guide to go with it.

With them three books, there isn't a question where the answer isn't in the book :)

I have a couple of questions you might be able to answer, when you fitted your CU, did you get the mains isolated by the elec board and how much did it cost if you did ?

How much in total did it cost you to re-wire your home if you don't me asking ?

I have TN-S install with an old 90A fuse, is this normal for today's standards ? i'm sure I read houses are installed with 100A now

Is your service head sealed by the supplier? If it's not then pull the fuse, that'll isolate your entire property of course.
 
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Hi business man,

Well you can try it on with building control and see what they say. It's important you really know what you're doing, especially with the testing, not just that you can convince building control. Download the model Electrical Installation Certifiacate forms for the 2011 amendment and ask yourself if you are confident you know exactly what to write, what boxes to tick and how to record all the test results. If not, then at the very least you still have a lot of reading to do :). Doing it this way, if BC will even let you, certainly wont save you any time, but maybe a little money.

Back when I did mine, I started off going the building control certification route, because back then the Part P doc said building controls had to cover all the inspection/testing from the initial building notice fee. But many, including mine, were just refusing or saying they couldn't do it. Mine wanted me to get the work done then get a spark in to do a PIR. They did an inspection of the first fix, and a regular inspector came round who clearly didn't really know what he was looking at. He glanced at a few wires, possibly seeing if they were routed in safe zones, but possibly just staring blankly. He didn't even want to go in the loft where most of the wiring was routed (it was a bungalow), then spent most of his visit frowning at a timber beam that had been put in when the previous owners had had an extension in the 70s and was precisely nothing to do with any work I was doing. All not very satisfactory. That situation and the fact I then had access to test equipment was what drove me to try on the other route which they fortunately accepted.

But nowadays, the guidance from central government, and the building regulations themselves, have changed a bit and allowed building controls to charge for inspection and testing, and generally clarified things a bit I think. So building controls have I think got their **** in order a bit more and have set up ways to get testing and inspection done properly and have a schedule of fees and all that. So probably best to get them to advise. For me I lumped everything for the renovation that was notifiable on the one building notice (was also a window enlarging including new lintel etc etc) and it was something like 200 quid if I recall. You'll have some element for testing/inspection but it may be reasonable compared to the battle you might have to get them to accept you are competent to do it yourself and the cost of the test equipment and the time learning etc etc. Not sure how many inspections they will want - for me it was gonna be first fix and completion, but I 'took over' after the first inspection.

The first thing I did was asked my supplier to replace the old meter with a new digital one and at the same time please install an isolator so the consumer unit can be conveniently replaced in the future without having to pull the service fuse. At that time, and with N Power as my supplier, this was all done free of charge! I hope you have the same luck as me! My new consumer unit could fortunately go in a slighty different location to the old one so I could leave the old one in place but strip out the whole old installation down to one socket fed off the old CU so I had some power. I could then install the whole new installation, then at some point got N-power back to move the tails from the isolator from the old CU to the new one. Again I think it was free.

90A fuse sounds fine. I had a 60. I was gonna ask them to upgrade it when I was finished but it just wasn't necessary. Was only a 2 bed bungalow with a big electric dual oven, but no electric showers. Even if you have a bigger house and have electric showers, I cant see you ever popping a 90 A service fuse to be honest.

I honestly cant remember the total cost. It would have been the notification fee I mentioned then just the materials. I used a Hager CU which a lot of pros would still recommend with Hager components. Had a couple of RCBOs with the rest split across 2 RCDs. Included mains with battery backup smoke heat and CO alarms, etc. Got everything from TLC. Im sure it was well under a grand for all the materials.

EDIT: Didn't see the post above. Seriously don't pull your service fuse, even if it isn't sealed! Get your supplier to fit an isolator!
 
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Its a sealed unit but there is no way I'm risking pulling it out. I've read somewhere that one of these fuses exploded as it was being pulled out. :eek:

I'll give e-on a call and get them to fit an isolator, maybe an 100A fuse and some longer tails so the new CU can be moved, its a bit too low and I wouldn't mind it higher up

I'll will take a look in to them other books, the part p doctor book has real examples of test certificates from work carried out and explains what each
part is and how to answer them from the tests shown in the book and OSG.

I'll look into how much it is to get building control out to do the inspection and testing. Its probably the next cheapest option if they don't recognise the electrical engineer qualification.

Thanks for all the helpful advice
 
Its a sealed unit but there is no way I'm risking pulling it out. I've read somewhere that one of these fuses exploded as it was being pulled out. :eek:

That's very unlikely HRC fuses are designed to take very high fault currents. I've come across 100's of really old HRC's and apart from a flaking sticker on them and discoloured they are as strong as the day they were made. What probably happened was the fuse was pulled out cack handed while still having a load on it and the arc and flash was exaggerated as exploding.
 
Its a sealed unit but there is no way I'm risking pulling it out. I've read somewhere that one of these fuses exploded as it was being pulled out. :eek:

lol?

Pulling the service fuse is routine and the completely normal (only!) way to isolate the supply. Every electrician replacing a CU will just pull this fuse. When pulling it, it wont even have a load on it, as you would obviously turn the consumer unit off before hand. (And only replace the fuse with the replacement CU switched off).
 
It's no myth - depending on the condition/antiquity they can give a nasty and dangerous surprise, albeit unlikely. A pro will know what he's looking at and handle with care. Not to mention it's illegal for you to do it. Why even bother taking the risk when your supplier/network operator will do it and fit an isolator so they don't have to return?
 
Why even bother taking the risk when your supplier/network operator will do it and fit an isolator so they don't have to return?

Because 1) Its not a risk in the slightest, and 2) They will charge for this and it is completely pointless for a one off consumer unit change.
 
What?

It's not illegal to pull the fuse if it's not sealed.

It's illegal to cut the seal, not to pull it...............

Previously...

Its a sealed unit

Ergo...


It's not exactly the lowest risk thing you could think of. One slip could be fatal. Not the sort of thing I'd expect to see recommended in a thread with 'electrical good practice' in the title. The OP is clearly interested in doing things properly. Didn't cost me a penny.
 
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