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EV general discussion
- Thread starter Ricochet J
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For the benefit of others, it’s an old destination charger that Tesla uses to give out for free years ago if you agree to offer free charging for Tesla owners.
Most of these have disappeared over the years as EVs have for more common, electricity costs spiked and venues realising they can charge people for the service.
There is a map on the Tesla website but it’s never updated so it’s pot luck whether the charger exists anymore, most don’t.
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Have a look through 500,000 battery tests here
Aviloo launches independent study on EV battery health - Engineer Live
Overall battery health remains strong, however the data shows meaningful differences between models and individual examples of the same model
engineerlive.com
You will easily get 10 years at average annual mileage
Many cars have pre-conditioning (warming/cooling) to help this
What is EV Battery Pre-Conditioning?
Learn more about pre-conditioning the battery in your EV in different temperatures, what it does, and why it’s important.
The only issue I can see with EV batteries is random total failures, which can happen, but are generally uncommon. They don't suddenly start to fail after a certain age/mileage, nor do they seem to lose dramatic amounts of range either even at very high mileage.
One bonus is many EV's have an 8 year/100k~ warranty on the battery. I'm sure in future most batteries will have individually repairable sections to avoid needing to replace the entire thing, or something along those lines.
So if you do buy and run an old/high mileage EV, you are exposed to a major problem in that replacing a battery is typically going to cost more than repairing something on a normal car, should it go wrong. Then again, if your gearbox/engine blows up you can end up having to spend thousands to fix that on many modern cars.
One bonus is many EV's have an 8 year/100k~ warranty on the battery. I'm sure in future most batteries will have individually repairable sections to avoid needing to replace the entire thing, or something along those lines.
So if you do buy and run an old/high mileage EV, you are exposed to a major problem in that replacing a battery is typically going to cost more than repairing something on a normal car, should it go wrong. Then again, if your gearbox/engine blows up you can end up having to spend thousands to fix that on many modern cars.
Pretty sure it's a legal minimum these days to have 8 years/100k cover on the battery, and they're all built from individual cells so can be repaired down to that level. It's just finding someone willing to spend the time doing it and not charging so much to do it that it's cheaper just to bin the whole battery off and replace it.
Interesting so maybe 10% loss at 150,000km so about 93k miles. So over the life of a typical car for me maybe 15-20% loss.Have a look through 500,000 battery tests here
Aviloo launches independent study on EV battery health - Engineer Live
Overall battery health remains strong, however the data shows meaningful differences between models and individual examples of the same model
You will easily get 10 years at average annual mileage
Probably acceptable with the saving of petrol over those 10 years (some of that saving will be eaten by road tax and pay per mile)
Don't forgot, no oil changes in those ten years
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Yes that's a fairly big expense on modern cars as well, gone are the days of 5lt costing £20. Generally £200 for an oil change for me these days.
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I'm just about to buy my first rear tyres for my MG4 Trophy Long Range.
Something I've never thought of before in 51 years of driving, do I buy All Season tyres?
I'm not a boy racer so what is my best option?
If the reply is All Season then what would you have?
Are those cheaper Goodyears going to be OK?
Something I've never thought of before in 51 years of driving, do I buy All Season tyres?
I'm not a boy racer so what is my best option?
If the reply is All Season then what would you have?
Are those cheaper Goodyears going to be OK?
I run all seasons on my ID3 because I've got a nearly 100 mile round trip commute so if the weather gets crap I don't want to get stuck.
I fitted the contis all round when I got the car last year and I've just replaced the rears with the Goodyear 4Seasons so far they feel just as good as the Contis
I fitted the contis all round when I got the car last year and I've just replaced the rears with the Goodyear 4Seasons so far they feel just as good as the Contis
If you live in the south of the country, maybe consider the crossclimate sport range
As long as you put the "good" ones on the rear, would it make much difference compared to e.g. having significantly more worn tyres front/rear? When I changed mine I only did the fronts (which were then swapped to the rear), and didn't notice anything strange (although of course it's one of those things which is fine until suddenly it's not!)
I didn't think garages would generally fit a mix of summer's/all seasons
A garage will do whatever the **** you want if you throw enough coin at them.