Expensive Build, need help

Soldato
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badbob said:
You could buy retail CPU and use stock CPU HSF for now. You can then replace the CPU HSF when you've paid the computer off and decided which is best.

Or you could buy OEM CPU and buy a CPU HSF straight away. OEM CPU's are cheaper, so the money saved can go towards the HSF.

And yes you do need CPU & GFX card HSF. Unless you have a really cool machine ie Pentium P200 where you can just get away with heatsinks, although a single slow 12cm is still needed to at least blow over mobo/ram/CPU heatsink.

As for PSU I would go for Enermax or Antec.

im so sorry but huh? im lost with all the cut down words, e.g. HSF, OEM, heatsinks?

Has the li-li v1000 case got 12cm fans included? if so are they any good? should i replace them?

ive updated my spec's again, with the asus board and i think nothing else
 
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OEM is in the form that is sent to manufacturers.. for software that means no nice flashy boxes. For hardware means the same but also, on CPU's, no HSF ( heat sink and fan ) - so have to buy an aftermarket one.
 
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BigDom said:
OEM is in the form that is sent to manufacturers.. for software that means no nice flashy boxes. For hardware means the same but also, on CPU's, no HSF ( heat sink and fan ) - so have to buy an aftermarket one.

ok thanks for letting me know, was kinda confused by all the comoputer slang

so if you look at what i have listed in first post, what else do i require to get this machine running, and running nice and quetly as possible without being too expensive?
 
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I don't think the Retail HSF is particularly noisy but the Freezer cooler 64 HSF is very very quiet so that will reduce noise a little bit.

The Asus board is passivly cooled so no fans there (silence :) ).

Only area of noise I can see is the 1900XT-X as it, like ALL top end cards, is a little noisy in games. But should be near silent when idling. However if the Zalman cooler supports the 1900 then that is an option to cut noise there.
 
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I would go for a Arctic Cooling Freezer 64 Pro CPU Cooler (Socket 754/939/940) (FG-000-AR to replace the stock cpu cooler, (and it only costs 17.57 inc Vat) which should allow you to overclock the cpu should you choose to in the future. As for Graphics card, im not sure but arent the X1900 as loud as the previous x1800 generation? If so i would look to get a VGA (Graphics Card) cooler from artic cooling
 
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ok i have changed back to the older mobo i was going to use as someone mentioned it didnt work with the lian-li case. Does the one i have listed work with the li-li v1000 case? i've removed the fans as im going to check out how the fans supplied with the case are

im struggling for what power i need for the PSU and which one, as im looking for quiet ones that will be compatable with this system. Do you have any suggestions?

Im currently looking at the Thermaltake PurePower 680W ATX2.0 Power Supply for £82 VAT included. Is this any good. The tihng that im confused about is that it has 2 8cm fans, arent these supposed to be the lowedest, however it says it is almost silent, and there is another one, same make, which has 1 12cm fan and is 600W and it says it gives off the impression that this one is lower. Which is better?
 
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addy_010 said:
ok i have changed back to the older mobo i was going to use as someone mentioned it didnt work with the lian-li case. Does the one i have listed work with the li-li v1000 case? i've removed the fans as im going to check out how the fans supplied with the case are

No not any of the heatpipe passive mobos wil work with the lian li case you wil have to get a normal mobo with a fan then take that off and get summot like the zalman northbride cooler and put it on

Zalman ZM-NB47J Northbridge Cooler (SY-007-ZA)

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/acatalog/copy_of_Zalman.html

just dont kno if it wil fit with *** eva mobo u get and graphic card
 
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The Asus isn't a heatpipe board, it's just passivly cooled like putting a Zalman on in your suggestion.

Asus_A8R_MVP.jpg


See :p

If a Zalman will work then a Asus will work.
 
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kinggost said:
you cant use the asus mobo on the lian li case because it inverts the mobo. The passive cooling is to do with heat riseing and it cant because the mobo is inverted.

:p

Asus = passive non-heatpipe
Abit = passive with heatpipe
 
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kinggost said:
is he useing the Abit AT8 mobo or is it me not reading the whole thread

i was going to use the abit, then i was told to use the asus so i did as it was better and cheaper, then i was told the asus didnt work with the case im going to use so i went back to the abit. which is better?, i'd rather get the asus as it's cheaper and supposably better but obviously only if it works with the case

im currently looking at Thermaltake PurePower 600W from overclockers.co.uk. Is this any good e.g. sound, heat etc

how often do OC get stock in? the PSU i listed above it currenlty out of stock so i can't add it to my order list :(((

im also a little bit confsued with my HD. Is this one of the fastest sata2 drives and quetiest drives available? if not which is better? is the p120 better?
 
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nikebee said:
The idea of 7 fans inside a case to me, seems a tad LOUD ;)
but anyway...

to say that Dual Core is not needed in games says your quite miss-informed.
Dual Core is here, and is now...

maxtor HDDs are not unreliable at all, they're good drives...

Firstly I totally agree, I have a coolermaster tornado case I bought about 3 years ago and can't wait to get rid of it. It has 6 80mm fans!, 1 at the front (in) , 1 on the back (out), 2 on the side (in-constantly cover the GPU with muck!) and 2 on the top (out). I've now disable the 2 side fans and 2 top fans cos I got fed up with my ears ringing for an hour after leaving my pc. Also 1 thing to really bear in mind with this kind of case is that whatever the DB quoted by the manufacturer will dramatically increase as the fan attacts dust and hence resistance, you can then probably double the DB.

Secondly buying now and not buying dual core, especially with this budget would be utterly stupid!

Finally I would like to echo the fact that there is nothing wrong with the Maxtor drive, in fact it's the only HDD i've had for more than 2 years without it going wrong!
 
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addy_010 said:
CP-127-AM AMD Athlon 64 X2 Dual Core 4400+ (Socket 939) - Retail (ADA4400CDBOX) (CP-127-AM)
£289.95

CD-024-NE NEC ND4550 16x16 DVD±RW Dual Layer ReWriter (Black) - OEM (CD-024-NE)
£25.50

HD-018-SA Samsung SpinPoint P SP2504C 250GB SATA-II 8MB Cache - OEM (HD-018-SA)
£61.95

CA-024-LL Lian-Li PC V1000 PLUS Silver Aluminium Midi-Tower (No PSU) (CA-024-LL)
£114.95

MY-079-CS Corsair 2GB DDR XMS3200C2PT TwinX (2x1GB) CAS2 (MY-079-CS)
£129.95

GX-046-CO Connect3D ATI Radeon X1900 XT-X 512MB GDDR3 AVIVO TV-Out/Dual DVI (PCI-Express) - Retail (3055) (GX-046-CO)
£329.95

MB-091-AB Abit AT8 ATI RD480 Crossfire (Socket 939) PCI-Express Motherboard (MB-091-AB)
£74.95

HD-000-MI Mitsumi FA 404M 7in1 USB 2.0 Floppy & Media Drive - Silver (HD-000-MI)
£13.95

Subtotal £1,041.15
VAT £182.21
Total £1,223.36

addy_010 said:
im currently looking at Thermaltake PurePower 600W from overclockers.co.uk. Is this any good e.g. sound, heat etc

Keep the dual core CPU. :)

Personally i think the Samsung SpinPoint HDD you listed are one of the best HDD available & if it was me i would stick with it.

Ram is a good choice.

The Connect3D ATI Radeon X1900 XT-X is a great choice. :D

The Abit AT8 ATI RD480 Crossfire has a heatpipe so you should get the Asus A8R-MVP Crossfire (Socket 939) PCI-Express Motherboard (MB-129-AS)

Thermaltake PurePower 600W is a good PSU, but if you dont want to wait you could go for the.. Antec NeoHE 500W Modular ATX2.0 PSU (CA-045-AN)
 
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the seasonic 600W psu is excellent if a tad overkill.

also the cpu you could always replace with a opteron 165 or 170 as these can then be overclocked further than the X2's and are not too much more. hope i have not made it much more confusing (also they work on both the boards you have suggested).
 
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