Fanatic Clubsport V1 conversion help.

Yadda · 27 Nov 2018 at 19:58

I recently bought a set of these pedals (Fanatec, not Fanatic as the title says) and while I'm very happy with their physical build, the hall sensors and/or PCB are plagued with issues which cause the calibration to sway like a drunk on a tightrope, which isn't ideal.

I'm in the process of making enquiries with Fanatec about refurbung my pedals but as this is a widespread issue, there's no guarantee how long my pedals will behave even after a complete overhaul.

So, I'm looking at alternative options. Has anyone in the sim racing community heard of anyone converting their clubsport pedals to run with different sensors and electronics, such as an Arduino for example, or load cell throttle and clutch (Edit:...or anything more reliable than the standard electronics)?

I'd be grateful for any advice or links. Cheers.

Yadda · 28 Nov 2018 at 23:02

A quick update in case it's of use to anyone else:

They can't sell me replacement parts but have some available if I send my pedals to their workshop for their engineer to look at.
Cost of parts if deemed necessary after examination: PCB 20 Euro, sensor 10 Euro each (potentially 2 needed).
Cost of labor: 65 Euro per hour. Estimated time required is half an hour at 35 Euro (not sure how that works but anyway...).
Obviously I have to pay shipping both ways, about £15? (They have a UK workshop).

Seeing as they insist on doing the work themselves and not shipping me the parts to fit myself I've asked if the work will be guaranteed. I've also asked if upgrading my pedals to V2 or V3 electronics is possible. I haven't received a reply yet.

What annoys me most is the fact that the parts are so easy to fit on these pedals - it's all exposed: 2 screws, 4 nuts and 6 allen bolts for the lot. It would make much more sense for them to just sell me 2x sensors and a PCB to fit myself. Hey-ho.

To be fair their communication has been prompt and helpful but to be honest, weighing up the costs and likelyhood of future failures, custom electronics is looking like a very good option at the moment.

I'll wait until they respond re guarantee before making a decision.

Uncle Petey · 28 Nov 2018 at 23:42

Could maybe try one of these http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=94&products_id=183
It also has an enclosure http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=102&products_id=223

Then again, it could be replacement magnet/sensor(s) that you need.

Yadda · 28 Nov 2018 at 23:53

Uncle Petey said:
Could maybe try one of these http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=94&products_id=183
It also has an enclosure http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=102&products_id=223

Then again, it could be replacement magnet/sensor(s) that you need.

Fantastic. 12 bit load cell input and 12 bit analogue inputs. That would actually be an upgrade on par with the V3 pedals sensitivity. I'd have to use my current hall sensors, as you say, or source replacements if they're fugged, but it's a good start.

Thanks mate, appreciated.

Edit: have these been used in this application before? What's the score on the software/driver front?

Uncle Petey · 29 Nov 2018 at 00:01

NP.
Was just thinking that you'd lose functionality with the loadcell sensitivity knob if you replaced everything with that. Dunno if that's an issue for you?
I run mine wide open FWIW.
I suppose you could just set it up the way you want when you use DIView to calibrate it.

Yadda · 29 Nov 2018 at 00:03

Uncle Petey said:
NP.
Was just thinking that you'd lose functionality with the loadcell sensitivity knob if you replaced everything with that. Dunno if that's an issue for you?
I run mine wide open FWIW.
I suppose you could just set it up the way you want when you use DIView to calibrate it.

Good point but I think the load cell sensitivity gubbins works upstream and independantly of the PCB. I can't be sure without looking closely but even if not, I should be able to adjust it in software, as you say.

Edit: or even run the two systems in parallel if needs must - the new PCB for throttle & clutch, and the old PCB for brake.

Yadda · 29 Nov 2018 at 00:43

They even sell hall sensors that connect to analogue inputs so should be compatible with the above controller board, £2.50 a pop!

Sure, they need mounting (I could just flip over the existing sensor PCBs and use the back side) but blimey, this is looking like a no-brainer.

http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=103_82&products_id=195

Uncle Petey · 29 Nov 2018 at 01:09

Yeah, I didn't mention it because it could be a hassle. Good luck.

Yadda · 29 Nov 2018 at 01:12

Uncle Petey said:
Yeah, I didn't mention it because it could be a hassle. Good luck.

Cheers, I'll wait await Fanatec's response before mulling it over but honestly I forsee a trip down the fab lab with my pedals very soon. :cool:

Thanks again for pointing me in the right direction.

Uncle Petey · 29 Nov 2018 at 01:24

No probs. I'll be interested to see how you get on.
Seeing as I currently have to limit the throttle to ~80% in game, I might well do the same if it works for you.

Yadda · 29 Nov 2018 at 01:40

Uncle Petey said:
No probs. I'll be interested to see how you get on.
Seeing as I currently have to limit the throttle to ~80% in game, I might well do the same if it works for you.

Yes, it's annoying isn't it? The final straw for me was when it started faulting the other way too - randomly applying about 4% throttle even though my foot was off. It didn't half make T3 & 4 tricky on Silverstone, lol. I was wondering wtf I'd done to the car setup. So I'm now running throttle adjustments which ignore the first 5% and last 20% of throttle input. If the trend continues I may as well use the space bar.

I'll let you know how I get on.

Yadda · 29 Nov 2018 at 14:20

I heard back from Fanatec re my questions about guarantee and upgrading the electronics. They said all new parts "are usually"(?) guaranteed for 6 months. The V3 electronics aren't compatible and V1 and V2 electronics are the same.

I've asked them to put the RMA on hold "while I consider other options".

Leobodnar it is. I just need to decide whether to stick with hall sensors or adapt the pedals to take high quality pots instead, which seem a more reliable option. There's also a tasty 16 bit dedicated 3 input (1x load cell and 2x pot) Leobodnar controller board on their website that's specifically made for DIY SIM pedals if I go down the pot route.

Edit: and Fair play to the Fanatec team, they responded again wishing me well with the overhaul. Can't fault their customer service, they've been great to deal with.

Uncle Petey · 2 Dec 2018 at 11:55

You might want to read this: https://www.racedepartment.com/threads/help-load-cell-with-leobodnar-board.136672/

NirK · 2 Dec 2018 at 14:48

Just read this thread, so are you saying that the Fanatec V1 and V2 pedals are unreliable and not that good?

I was considering some V2 pedals, I read the V2 are a fair bit better than the V1. But the V3 pedals are very expensive.

From what you have said there the V1 and V2 have bad electronics in them which are likely to fail and difficult to replace? You said the V1 have these problems, then in your next message Fanatec said the V1 and V2 have same electronics?

Or are they all quite good and unlikely to fail?

Looks to me that other than the V2, the CSL elite pedals V2 might be a good option? They don't look as nice and do not have springs on the accelerator / clutch, but other than that look like they are good.

Yadda · 2 Dec 2018 at 17:25

NirK said:
Just read this thread, so are you saying that the Fanatec V1 and V2 pedals are unreliable and not that good?

I was considering some V2 pedals, I read the V2 are a fair bit better than the V1. But the V3 pedals are very expensive.

From what you have said there the V1 and V2 have bad electronics in them which are likely to fail and difficult to replace? You said the V1 have these problems, then in your next message Fanatec said the V1 and V2 have same electronics?

Or are they all quite good and unlikely to fail?

Looks to me that other than the V2, the CSL elite pedals V2 might be a good option? They don't look as nice and do not have springs on the accelerator / clutch, but other than that look like they are good.

Well, I wouldn't say the V1's and V2's aren't good (I love mine) but they do seem to suffer more than their fair share of calibration issues. I know people are far more vocal about bad experiences than good but have a google search, it's quite revealing. Additionally, two other people on this forum I have spoken to with older Fanatec pedals (one with exactly the same set as me) suffer the same problem.

All I'll say is if you're going to get an older set of Fanatec pedals, don't expect them to be as problem-free as you might expect. If you want something that works absolutely problem free out of the box and indefinitely but don't want to shell out for a set of V3's then Logitech or T3PA/T3PA-pro are probably the pedals for you.

Edit:
I'm currently testing after securing the cables that link the sensors to the main PCB, so they don't move when the pedals are pressed. It's early days yet but so far it appears that calibration stability has improved (fingers crossed though because I thought cleaning the sensors sorted it... and then swapping the PCB input of clutch and throttle... and then swapping the magnets... so only time will tell).

Yadda · 2 Dec 2018 at 19:03

Uncle Petey said:
You might want to read this: https://www.racedepartment.com/threads/help-load-cell-with-leobodnar-board.136672/

Just spotted your post, cheers Petey.

I'd noticed the difference in the number of wires and was going to look into it further. Good stuff, let's see how he's hooked up that resistor.

Edit:
Here's the 16-bit controller BTW. Limited to load cell plus 2x analogue inputs (ideal for pedals but none left over for extra buttons etc) but also "with gain controls", to quote the Tech Support chap I spoke to "which can help maximize the range of the analogue inputs", which the other board doesn't have.

http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=297

Edit2:
Here's the 3-to-4 wire load cell convertor board by the looks of it. Not too bad at a tenner.

http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index...id=294&zenid=4f88a01c0b6f1c9b6e9928fcafdeb722

NirK · 2 Dec 2018 at 19:29

Yadda said:
Well, I wouldn't say the V1's and V2's aren't good (I love mine) but they do seem to suffer more than their fair share of calibration issues. I know people are far more vocal about bad experiences than good but have a google search, it's quite revealing. Additionally, two other people on this forum I have spoken to with older Fanatec pedals (one with exactly the same set as me) suffer the same problem.

All I'll say is if you're going to get an older set of Fanatec pedals, don't expect them to be as problem-free as you might expect. If you want something that works absolutely problem free out of the box and indefinitely but don't want to shell out for a set of V3's then Logitech or T3PA/T3PA-pro are probably the pedals for you.

Edit:
I'm currently testing after securing the cables that link the sensors to the main PCB, so they don't move when the pedals are pressed. It's early days yet but so far it appears that calibration stability has improved (fingers crossed though because I thought cleaning the sensors sorted it... and then swapping the PCB input of clutch and throttle... and then swapping the magnets... so only time will tell).

What do you think about the Fanatec Elite LC? They look like possibly a good upgrade to the T3PA?

Yadda · 2 Dec 2018 at 20:17

NirK said:
What do you think about the Fanatec Elite LC? They look like possibly a good upgrade to the T3PA?

I don't know much about them but they do look very promising. Definitely worth looking into, I'd say.

NirK · 3 Dec 2018 at 02:51

Yes from the description it looks like the same parts as the V3 except for the springs etc.

Yadda · 4 Dec 2018 at 01:31

NirK said:
Yes from the description it looks like the same parts as the V3 except for the springs etc.

Good stuff. Mechanically they look quite different and I don't know what impact that has on their performance but I'm sure you can get a good idea of what they're like by scouring reviews and forums. They sound like they should be very good pedals.

@Uncle Petey Are the sensor cables on your CSP v1's secured to the chassis in any way? Mine were just hanging freely and moved quite a bit during use. Since securing the throttle cable with a small piece of gaffa-tape to the black cross member near the bottom of the pedal it hasn't shown any of the usual symptoms when calibrating in (which I do at the start of every racing session).

I haven't tried it in-game without filtering-out the top 20% yet but going by how stable it seems during calibration now, I'm beginning to think it may be a loose connection/wiring issue. Can you give it a try and see what happens?