Fanatic Clubsport V1 conversion help.

[Uncle Petey]

Mine is currently loose, since I swapped it for the shorter cabled clutch sensor.
It would be hard/long winded to test, since it could work fine for a while and then just lose the top 20% at random, like it has done for years with either sensor.

 

[Yadda]

Might be worth a try. Like I said, calibration hasn't shown any of the usual problems since. Unfortunately, although a PITA, trial and error is all we have if we want to get to the bottom of it.

 

[NirK]

I recently bought a set of these pedals (Fanatec, not Fanatic as the title says) and while I'm very happy with their physical build, the hall sensors and/or PCB are plagued with issues which cause the calibration to sway like a drunk on a tightrope, which isn't ideal.

I'm in the process of making enquiries with Fanatec about refurbung my pedals but as this is a widespread issue, there's no guarantee how long my pedals will behave even after a complete overhaul.

So, I'm looking at alternative options. Has anyone in the sim racing community heard of anyone converting their clubsport pedals to run with different sensors and electronics, such as an Arduino for example, or load cell throttle and clutch (Edit:...or anything more reliable than the standard electronics)?

I'd be grateful for any advice or links. Cheers.

Hello Yadda, I ordered some V1 pedals which have not been dispatched yet, they have new foot plate and pedals plates, so they look almost new, he also said all of the pedals function properly with no problems and the LC was replaced just over a year ago.

I asked but he said he cannot find original receipt. After looking at the number of problems with V1 pedals (although most stuff is exaggerated online as you can find problems with anything, and they might be completely OK) I am a bit worried about if I need any spares from Fanatec.

Most of the parts are easily available, but some parts such as PCB board and sensors are pretty much only from Fanatec, I am a bit worried if I needed these that they would be asking me to send the whole pedals back for a service, rather than just being able to order parts? Can you tell me what happened in the end? Did you manage to get any parts such as PCB / sensors etc. from Fanatec?

For example a PCB for £20 and a couple of Sensors for £10 + shipping would not be a problem, but then if you have to also pay labour (that I could do myself) and 2 ways shipping, it is expensive.

 

[Yadda]

Hello Yadda, I ordered some V1 pedals which have not been dispatched yet, they have new foot plate and pedals plates, so they look almost new, he also said all of the pedals function properly with no problems and the LC was replaced just over a year ago.

I asked but he said he cannot find original receipt. After looking at the number of problems with V1 pedals (although most stuff is exaggerated online as you can find problems with anything, and they might be completely OK) I am a bit worried about if I need any spares from Fanatec.

Most of the parts are easily available, but some parts such as PCB board and sensors are pretty much only from Fanatec, I am a bit worried if I needed these that they would be asking me to send the whole pedals back for a service, rather than just being able to order parts? Can you tell me what happened in the end? Did you manage to get any parts such as PCB / sensors etc. from Fanatec?

For example a PCB for £20 and a couple of Sensors for £10 + shipping would not be a problem, but then if you have to also pay labour (that I could do myself) and 2 ways shipping, it is expensive.

Hi Nirk. Unfortunately, Fanatec would not sell me the parts to overhaul the pedals myself. They insisted that I send the pedals to their UK service centre. Quite frustrating because like you, I priced it up beforehand and was prepared to buy all the bits to cover all possibilities and keep what wasn't needed as spares.

Unfortunately I haven't done anything about fitting alternative electronics yet either (it's been quite a hectic few months) so have just worked around the problem for now (Assetto Corsa allows you adjust the pedal range in its calibration option to compensate for the issue).

 

[Shad Curren]

Yadda,
I was curious if you were able to fit the Leobodnar parts and were successful?

 

[Brendan Tran]

Hey guys just joining in here. Bought clubsport V1 pedals used today but unfortunately they suffer the same symlfons described in this thread. Very intefeinte to hear stories and guides to success if you end up modding your pedals, and would intend to do the same under some direction.

Cheers! Hope to hear from yas

 

[Yadda]

Yadda,
I was curious if you were able to fit the Leobodnar parts and were successful?

Hey guys just joining in here. Bought clubsport V1 pedals used today but unfortunately they suffer the same symlfons described in this thread. Very intefeinte to hear stories and guides to success if you end up modding your pedals, and would intend to do the same under some direction.

Cheers! Hope to hear from yas

I'm afraid I haven't had a chance to work on the pedals at all and I'm still working around the problem (as I describe in my last post).

Sorry folks (and sorry Shad for not replying sooner).

 

[Michael Clough]

Hey guys just joining in here. Bought clubsport V1 pedals used today but unfortunately they suffer the same symlfons described in this thread. Very intefeinte to hear stories and guides to success if you end up modding your pedals, and would intend to do the same under some direction.

Cheers! Hope to hear from yas

Hey Brendan. I bought some used V1s before Christmas and had these problems; last ~20% of the throttle travel was not registering but brake and clutch were fine. I removed the hall sensor (the little PCB attached to the side of the throttle and clutch pedals) from both the throttle and clutch, cleaned them with alcohol (or whatever solvent you happen to have), cleaned the end of the rod in the pedal with the magnet mounted in, and swapped them over for good measure. This resolved the issue.

However, although this sorted it, I noted that the rod with the magnet in on my throttle pedal was wearing down:

I figured this would cause me issues sooner rather than later. So I swapped that between my throttle and clutch too (never use clutch, don't have a shifter yet). I have since ordered a 'Clubsport Pedal Tuning Kit' which includes stainless steel rods:

to replace the brass ones - not got round to doing it yet though.

When removing the hall sensors, make sure to retain the plastic spacers underneath and when refitting it all, make sure that they are fastened back down securely and you've checked all the JST connectors have been plugged back in firmly. Hall sensors work from an initial calibration and if they move in relation to the magnet they are measuring after cal, they will read off. Same goes for the magnet moving in relation to the sensor outside it's calibrated range, hence why I'm swapping the rod for one that isn't worn and loose.

Hope you get sorted!

 

[Mark paul Buttigieg]

ok here is what I have been able to do with my V1s, I purchased the 2 following boards from Leo Bodnar and have connected my brake loadcell to them and they work flawlessly. The only downside is i have 2 usb cables running from the pedals to the pc. One for the brake and one for the clutch and gas.

http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=94&products_id=297
http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=73&products_id=294
But now my hall sensors are starting to act up. So I'm gonna take the plunge and buy a few hall sensors since they are really cheap. The good thing here could be trhat if i can get the mounting done correctly I will be able to eliminate the fanatec pcb entirely and be working off of Leo Bodnards board alone. This also gives you 65000 steps compared to fanatec's 1020. Will keep you guys updated on how this goes. I will also add some photos when I get home from work.

 

[Soggyshoe]

Also just picked up a V1 set of pedals and have the tuning kit with it. No idea what I'm doing with the brake "knob". I just don't get what it does short of making my brake not work

Interested in any mods you have done to replace the ageing original board electronics!

 

[Uncle Petey]

The brake knob basically lets you adjust the level of force required to max out the load cell.

 

[Soggyshoe]

Thanks!

 

[hyperseven]

Thanks!

You also find it's best to put some markings on the knob itself and the outer metal since it has none and then you at least know how far you are adjusting.

 

[maxferrari]

hi everyone, I'm in the complete rods .... I bought the following components,

1- http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=297
2- http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=94&products_id=183
3- http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=73&products_id=294

I made all the connections it does not read anything acc clutch and load cell remains stationary ... mind acc and clutch osccilano in a shameful way .. I find a guide to be able to use my pedaliara v1 fanatec Thanks in advance