Soldato
But the fence posts alone aren't bearing the weight. Surely if you secure them to the concrete wall, that would also take the load.
Fencing advice - how do I cut into concrete?
- Thread starter Ricochet J
- Start date
But the fence posts alone aren't bearing the weight. Surely if you secure them to the concrete wall, that would also take the load.
If i understand your suggestion correctly..... when the concrete ends and the panel starts you will be going from a 1 inch timber to 4 inch timber. Yes you may have bolted the notched out timber to the concrete wall but at this point any cross winds will put most of the force into the post at the point where the notch is and there you will only have 1 inch of timber. Any substantial force will break it.
Soldato
Good point. I hadn't considered that.
I suppose you'd then need to start considering re-inforcing the joint with a steel L bracket and it becomes extra hassle.
And even they you would be at the mercy of the strength of your screws that hold the plates in place.
I think cutting some more channels is the only way. Its a bit of a ball ache but if you want it the look right it will need to be done this way.
Soldato
What about building them using components.
Eg the arris rail and posts and featheredge type things.
I am 99% sure mine are at like 2.4m spaceing at home, certainly feel about 25% wider apart than 1.8m
You can then do each section to the width of the slots you have available, and also follow the slope
Will for sure be more expensive and take a little longer, but it would use whats already there and avoid anything else.
I would always be cautious messing with something like that concrete wall. If it was to crack albeit unlikely you would be in for some hastle for sure
Eg the arris rail and posts and featheredge type things.
I am 99% sure mine are at like 2.4m spaceing at home, certainly feel about 25% wider apart than 1.8m
You can then do each section to the width of the slots you have available, and also follow the slope
Will for sure be more expensive and take a little longer, but it would use whats already there and avoid anything else.
I would always be cautious messing with something like that concrete wall. If it was to crack albeit unlikely you would be in for some hastle for sure
The concrete will not crack. Looking at it in the first post it looks like it was mixed correctly with lots of gravel/hardcore mixed in, unlike nowadays where its cracks away in your hands due to cost cutting materials.
The featheredge board is not a bad idea at all, only problem is that you should be fixing it every 60 - 80cm if you want it to last. You cant have it really spanning the whole 180cm and only have a fixing at each end, it will end up twisting and warping as it gets weathered.
I guess we need to listen to the OP and read what he has written. He needs to chop some channels out so that he can evenly space out longer higher posts so that he gets more privacy.
Rent out a stone saw, hit it hard for a few hours and you will have your channels. Get in your longer 4x4 posts and fix them into your channels with some bolts and plugs. Fix your panels to these and then finish off the job neatly by filling in the old channels with some concrete/cement mix.
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Soldato
I may be using the wrong description here, but I have what looks like featheredge, the posts are around 2.5m apart from feel, but it seems 2.4m is the common length of those arris rails so I guess 2.4 it is.
They have 3 rails, bottom middle and top, bottom and top are around 10-15cm from the edge, so I would say around a metre of board between the 3 fixing points.
I was actually asking the fencer who did a neighrbours fence which is panels for the 2nd time in 10 years about fences as we live in a windy area, his seem to take the brute force where wind is channelled between some houses. The fencer said the best in windy areas are the ones where you attach the boards each side and have a gap, so the wind can go through the gap, but vision is obscured. They are more expensive, but they do look nice. Must be a little bit of a bitch to treat though I guess, as spray would also go through!
They have 3 rails, bottom middle and top, bottom and top are around 10-15cm from the edge, so I would say around a metre of board between the 3 fixing points.
I was actually asking the fencer who did a neighrbours fence which is panels for the 2nd time in 10 years about fences as we live in a windy area, his seem to take the brute force where wind is channelled between some houses. The fencer said the best in windy areas are the ones where you attach the boards each side and have a gap, so the wind can go through the gap, but vision is obscured. They are more expensive, but they do look nice. Must be a little bit of a bitch to treat though I guess, as spray would also go through!
That is correct. Basically the OP would find uprights the same as already on the fence and fix them to the other side of the rail (neighbours side). You fix them opposite the gaps so you can only see through at extreme angles to the fence itself. This wont work though as the OP has said he wants the fence higher for more privacy. The house next door is lower so i expect the upstairs windows star right over the fence and into the downstairs windows of his place. Making the fence higher gets rid of this issue.
Im not really sure i understand your first part of the post. Images maybe?
Soldato
Looks like this
Now I find it can be 3m lengths, I would hazard a guess mine is 3m now
https://www.aaronfencing.co.uk/product/1-x-3m-bay-wooden-closeboard-fencing
Now I find it can be 3m lengths, I would hazard a guess mine is 3m now
https://www.aaronfencing.co.uk/product/1-x-3m-bay-wooden-closeboard-fencing
Soldato
Ah board on board was the type I was thinking of although not sure this is what he called it.
https://www.frederickfence.com/fences/board-on-board/
Op could easily do this, using the bolt down anchors. Its supposed to be much better in windy locations. (I am told)
i think it looks pretty much the most attractive fencing as well personally but of course thats personal choice
https://www.frederickfence.com/fences/board-on-board/
Op could easily do this, using the bolt down anchors. Its supposed to be much better in windy locations. (I am told)
i think it looks pretty much the most attractive fencing as well personally but of course thats personal choice
Soldato
I put a couple posts of fence in below thread. If you have a good base to tie into using frame fixings those floor fixings will be fine (will look worse on neighbours side that yours, but saves effort 
)
Example of fence posts (in latter pictures) here
https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/posts/31976950/
As long as you have enough slab to conned to you'll be fine. The bit that's cut into an angled slab with very little tread isn't as good for fixings as where I've gone into a couple levels of brick with frame fixings.
https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/posts/32045526/
I think you could cut the opening deeper in the slab with a disc saw /sds then tie in with threaded bars (similar to my post above).
)Example of fence posts (in latter pictures) here
https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/posts/31976950/
As long as you have enough slab to conned to you'll be fine. The bit that's cut into an angled slab with very little tread isn't as good for fixings as where I've gone into a couple levels of brick with frame fixings.
https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/posts/32045526/
I think you could cut the opening deeper in the slab with a disc saw /sds then tie in with threaded bars (similar to my post above).
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“Hit and miss” I think is another name for it.
Soldato
Or shadow box fencing