fiesta 1.25. interference engine?

It'll be buggered, these engines don't fare too well if the belt goes.

You can tell this over the internet? :confused:

I'm with Biohazard - if it drove, then it'll more than likely be fine. **** inspecting it, I wouldn't even bother with a compression test if she's selling it - Time it up, put a new belt on and flog it.
 
You can tell this over the internet? :confused:

I'm with Biohazard - if it drove, then it'll more than likely be fine. **** inspecting it, I wouldn't even bother with a compression test if she's selling it - Time it up, put a new belt on and flog it.

Not a great attitude take, how would you feel buying a car in such condition.
 
You can tell this over the internet? :confused:

I'm with Biohazard - if it drove, then it'll more than likely be fine. **** inspecting it, I wouldn't even bother with a compression test if she's selling it - Time it up, put a new belt on and flog it.

I'd love to buy a second hand car from you, the man with no conscience. I don't know about anyone else but I'd feel pretty bad selling a car with a known fault to someone unsuspecting. Driving 20 miles, with a broken tensioner and the car sounding like a bag of spanners, on an interference engine. How broken does it have to be before I can tell over the internet?

Don't listen to this guy to be frank.

Check it first.

I didn't say not to check :confused:
 
I'd love to buy a second hand car from you, the man with no conscience. I don't know about anyone else but I'd feel pretty bad selling a car with a known fault to someone unsuspecting. Driving 20 miles, with a broken tensioner and the car sounding like a bag of spanners, on an interference engine. How broken does it have to be before I can tell over the internet?

Being able to run 'normally' for 20 miles is generally a strong clue that it is not 'buggered'.
 
It was originally, I think they changed it to 60k after some started failing

how do they inform people that its changed ? serious quesiton

sure my wifes 1.25 handbook says 100k/10yrs

its still on its original (1999) cambelt - but the cars worth so little its hardly worth replacing
 
how do they inform people that its changed ? serious quesiton

sure my wifes 1.25 handbook says 100k/10yrs

its still on its original (1999) cambelt - but the cars worth so little its hardly worth replacing

Ford's servicing schedules are known to be 'optimistic'. 60k or 6 years is the generally accepted rule.
 
step away from the handbags ladies.

ill try and pop round there on monday, explaining that her car created an internet barney and im gonna try and get a pic of the pistons lol
 
im hedging my bets on "absolutely rogered"

it was just the weight of the belt keeping it on the cam pulleys. on the intake cam (the one nearer the front of the car) the teeth of the belt were resting on the teeth of the pulley. i think when the engine was running there was enough tension to keep it timed. she made one stop on the way home and after that it stalled a couple times in traffic the revs were hunting (classic lambda seeing all sorts of gasses that it shoudlnt)

since then it has been started and stopped a couple times.

wonder if shell wanna sell it for buttons. the mech work i do on the side has been a bit slow lately
 
Need to get the belt & tensioner changed on the gf's, I have it ready. Just need my mechanic to fit it
What did you pay for the parts and what's the schedule on these? My GF's car is on about 40k but 10 years old now. Clutch release bearing is a bit whiney and I think the clutch is quite worn now so tempted to buy an engine hoist. Lift it out and change the lot.
 
im hedging my bets on "absolutely rogered"

it was just the weight of the belt keeping it on the cam pulleys. on the intake cam (the one nearer the front of the car) the teeth of the belt were resting on the teeth of the pulley. i think when the engine was running there was enough tension to keep it timed. she made one stop on the way home and after that it stalled a couple times in traffic the revs were hunting (classic lambda seeing all sorts of gasses that it shoudlnt)

since then it has been started and stopped a couple times.

wonder if shell wanna sell it for buttons. the mech work i do on the side has been a bit slow lately

have you tried to sort the belt and start it up again? coming off the throttle quickly should have thrown it if it was that loose I would have thought

depends on what she wants to do with it really, try and get it stupidly cheap ;)

if it was struggling around 400-600rpm when she stalled it, could have been lambda hunting
 
well, just got back from a noon round there putting a new belt kit on there

cheapest i could find was £45 and it was a GATES! rocked up, stripped it down, got the crank to tdc, belt off and realigned the cams. intake cam had jumped two or three teeth, it was at last 30* out, maybe more.

old tension was proper fubar, might try and get some pics up. put the new belt on, tried to retime it without faffing with the cam pulleys but couldnt get the tension i liked.

did it all properly, put it back together far enough that it could be started. i knew it went round without making contact but who knows the state of the valves

fired it up and could hear all sorts (then remembered one wheel was off, one disc would be spinning) so put my foot on the brakes and all was silent and all was good in the world

friggin thing is good for another 96k.

old tensioner had failed badly, the plastic roller was off the bearing, god knows how it escaped because there didnt look like there was enough space for it to get past the belt and cover.

fixed
 
as I thought, the timing being that far out would cause that awful running.

well done, glad to hear its going again. get the tension sorted though, or you'll have the exact same problem or worse happen again.

:)
 
cam pulleys can unbolt, theyre on a taper and move independantly of the cams so you can get the tension perfect if you try.. so i did

fun fun fun
 
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