Final Spec
- Thread starter tcody
- Start date
Good man, that's a far better response than just asking what lapping is 
I used scythe s-flex on my true, adding a second got me one degree under load and none when idle. I think this is because I had an exhaust fan already lined up with the cooler, so with the second fan there was barely a centimeter between the two. Essentially the same as with your case.
Lapping a true will take you a while. Start on coarse grit, probably 240. You'll mainly find advice on processors, similar idea with heatsinks. Rub back and forth until you see copper all over, rotate 90 degrees and use finer paper until scratches look gone, rotate 90 and use finer again. Repeat. Remember that the aim is to have it flat, not just shiny.
It'll take a while. Probably 2 or 3 hours. I lapped it on a machine and it took about half an hour, but I was fortunate enough to have one available.
Reason it helps is that making the base flatter increases the area in contact with the processor. As a side effect you get rid of the nickel layer which also helps slightly. Doing it to the processor is considered risky as it voids warranty, and people occasionally return processors under warranty. I can't think of any reason why you might want to return a large chunk of metal under warranty, so the risk is rather less
I used scythe s-flex on my true, adding a second got me one degree under load and none when idle. I think this is because I had an exhaust fan already lined up with the cooler, so with the second fan there was barely a centimeter between the two. Essentially the same as with your case.
Lapping a true will take you a while. Start on coarse grit, probably 240. You'll mainly find advice on processors, similar idea with heatsinks. Rub back and forth until you see copper all over, rotate 90 degrees and use finer paper until scratches look gone, rotate 90 and use finer again. Repeat. Remember that the aim is to have it flat, not just shiny.
It'll take a while. Probably 2 or 3 hours. I lapped it on a machine and it took about half an hour, but I was fortunate enough to have one available.
Reason it helps is that making the base flatter increases the area in contact with the processor. As a side effect you get rid of the nickel layer which also helps slightly. Doing it to the processor is considered risky as it voids warranty, and people occasionally return processors under warranty. I can't think of any reason why you might want to return a large chunk of metal under warranty, so the risk is rather less
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Good man, that's a far better response than just asking what lapping is
I used scythe s-flex on my true, adding a second got me one degree under load and none when idle. I think this is because I had an exhaust fan already lined up with the cooler, so with the second fan there was barely a centimeter between the two. Essentially the same as with your case.
Lapping a true will take you a while. Start on coarse grit, probably 240. You'll mainly find advice on processors, similar idea with heatsinks. Rub back and forth until you see copper all over, rotate 90 degrees and use finer paper until scratches look gone, rotate 90 and use finer again. Repeat. Remember that the aim is to have it flat, not just shiny.
It'll take a while. Probably 2 or 3 hours. I lapped it on a machine and it took about half an hour, but I was fortunate enough to have one available.
Reason it helps is that making the base flatter increases the area in contact with the processor. As a side effect you get rid of the nickel layer which also helps slightly. Doing it to the processor is considered risky as it voids warranty, and people occasionally return processors under warranty. I can't think of any reason why you might want to return a large chunk of metal under warranty, so the risk is rather less
you do it to the actual processor
....That's surely risky.... Not sure what the back of the processor looks like... But can't you zap it in the process? Break it?
And why don't CPU cooler companies supply them flat / copper plated?
I've seen the evidence everywhere for the much better temp readings... but not sure its worth the risk of messing up...
On another note, I see what you mean about second fan, guessing my case will be very tight as it is and that second fan wont make much of a difference...
as its an added cost to make the heat sink or CPU (some Intel cpus have been concave and needed to be flattened out)
the Corsair S128 SSD it self if fast on access times
are you going to be messing with big files or not {ok most likely big from your other posts} (the samsung or falcon/vertex are a lot faster on the data rate front but under norm day to day use your not likely see much improvement unless your messing with 5gb files often)
but if you can afford to get the samsung second gen or falcon/vertex SSD drive you not be let down any way (well the samsung will not anyway)
with the programs you are using more data rate is most likely better any way
the Corsair S128 SSD it self if fast on access times
are you going to be messing with big files or not {ok most likely big from your other posts} (the samsung or falcon/vertex are a lot faster on the data rate front but under norm day to day use your not likely see much improvement unless your messing with 5gb files often)
but if you can afford to get the samsung second gen or falcon/vertex SSD drive you not be let down any way (well the samsung will not anyway)
with the programs you are using more data rate is most likely better any way
Aye getting a 128gb SSD G Skill Falcon... With the option to get another in Raid later...
think its for the best... Can't believe I've put up with this macbook for so long, letting it slowly crunch through 3d studio in bootcamp... crazymost likely payed the same amount for it for the Mac, your about to Buy and its going to be like 10x faster then it
i got an mac here Right now driving me mad as it refuse to boot from USB pen to put 10.5 back on (dvd DL disks do not work for some reason and it only comes on 1 DL dvd now not 2) any one in the warrington area got an OSX 10.5 disk i can lend or tell me how to do an Network install
i got an mac here Right now driving me mad as it refuse to boot from USB pen to put 10.5 back on (dvd DL disks do not work for some reason and it only comes on 1 DL dvd now not 2) any one in the warrington area got an OSX 10.5 disk i can lend
or tell me how to do an Network installDepends what normal day to day use is. Not everyone games. Part of the joy of computers is the options available, everyone has a slightly different idea of what is best and most ideas can be realized without your own machining lab.
I lapped my e8400, it allowed nice running temperatures at 3.6ghz in a matx case with sod all airflow and a 7 quid cpu cooler. Well worth it. Back of the processor is a thin layer of nickel then about 3mm of copper. Yeah, you could damage it. Sanding with water/oil would be a good way to start with that. Static discharge/temperatures could also be a problem. If you're patient it's fine. Heatsinks on the other hand, couldn't care less about temperatures or static. Can't hurt them
They're nickel plated as this is more inert than copper I believe. Copper is attacked by fingerprints, which isn't that desirable in a processor. Not everyone takes care never to touch the surface after all. It's also more convenient to stamp id numbers into nickel.
Several waterblocks come with lapped copper bases, but they're aimed at a different market to air heatsinks.
You might find that the extra fan actually hurts temperatures, air cooling is strange like that
Network installation is fairly advanced. I know the basics to it, but as I haven't done it myself I'm not going to try to talk you through it. Google will steer you better I'm afraid. I'd personally track down an external dvd drive and install from that. Alternatively, an internal dvd drive with a sata to usb adapter taken from an external hard drive enclosure works just as well.
I lapped my e8400, it allowed nice running temperatures at 3.6ghz in a matx case with sod all airflow and a 7 quid cpu cooler. Well worth it. Back of the processor is a thin layer of nickel then about 3mm of copper. Yeah, you could damage it. Sanding with water/oil would be a good way to start with that. Static discharge/temperatures could also be a problem. If you're patient it's fine. Heatsinks on the other hand, couldn't care less about temperatures or static. Can't hurt them
They're nickel plated as this is more inert than copper I believe. Copper is attacked by fingerprints, which isn't that desirable in a processor. Not everyone takes care never to touch the surface after all. It's also more convenient to stamp id numbers into nickel.
Several waterblocks come with lapped copper bases, but they're aimed at a different market to air heatsinks.
You might find that the extra fan actually hurts temperatures, air cooling is strange like that
Network installation is fairly advanced. I know the basics to it, but as I haven't done it myself I'm not going to try to talk you through it. Google will steer you better I'm afraid. I'd personally track down an external dvd drive and install from that. Alternatively, an internal dvd drive with a sata to usb adapter taken from an external hard drive enclosure works just as well.
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most likely payed the same amount for it for the Mac, your about to Buy and its going to be like 10x faster then it
i got an mac here Right now driving me mad as it refuse to boot from USB pen to put 10.5 back on (dvd DL disks do not work for some reason and it only comes on 1 DL dvd now not 2) any one in the warrington area got an OSX 10.5 disk i can lend
True, this is the 2.2 ghz core 2 duo, cost 1000 at the time... This machine is ATLEAST gonna be 10x better and will be 10x faster than a 1000 macbook now...
I just want something that will last, and is upgradeable... two things apple dont supply...Thats a major pain about your install disc.. If i were you i'd download it.. comfortable in the fact that you own it (no moral issues to do with copyright).. dunno if you can dl the two disc version though..
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Depends what normal day to day use is. Not everyone games. Part of the joy of computers is the options available, everyone has a slightly different idea of what is best and most ideas can be realized without your own machining lab.
I lapped my e8400, it allowed nice running temperatures at 3.6ghz in a matx case with sod all airflow and a 7 quid cpu cooler. Well worth it. Back of the processor is a thin layer of nickel then about 3mm of copper. Yeah, you could damage it. Sanding with water/oil would be a good way to start with that. Static discharge/temperatures could also be a problem. If you're patient it's fine. Heatsinks on the other hand, couldn't care less about temperatures or static. Can't hurt them
They're nickel plated as this is more inert than copper I believe. Copper is attacked by fingerprints, which isn't that desirable in a processor. Not everyone takes care never to touch the surface after all. It's also more convenient to stamp id numbers into nickel.
Several waterblocks come with lapped copper bases, but they're aimed at a different market to air heatsinks.
You might find that the extra fan actually hurts temperatures, air cooling is strange like that
Network installation is fairly advanced. I know the basics to it, but as I haven't done it myself I'm not going to try to talk you through it. Google will steer you better I'm afraid. I'd personally track down an external dvd drive and install from that. Alternatively, an internal dvd drive with a sata to usb adapter taken from an external hard drive enclosure works just as well.
If I was only willing to attempt it on the CPU cooler what temp decrease could i expect... not even half of doing both right? Its a tricky one, will give it thought whilst it gets delivered...
So what do i need? Oil, Sandpaper (different degrees) and saw on a guide a glass slab...
So both the processor and cpu cooler have nickel plating and copper underneath? Sanding doesnt produce static does it? How confidently did you do your CPU?
Tempting....
No oil man, not a good call for doing it by hand. Piece of glass with wet and dry paper (different to sand paper) taped to it. Use it dry or very slightly wet, wash it off and let it dry when it gets clogged. Several sheets in rotation will make this rather quicker. The glass is there because glass is flat, thats all.
Definitely lap the true. It's time consuming, but temps will be better. Hard to say by how much, depends on many factors. I'd estimate 3 degrees, but if the base of your TRUE is particularly curved it'll be more.
Have a look at the processor before doing it. Hold a razor/something else straight against the top and hold it up against a light. That'll give you a fair estimate of how flat it is. If it's very curved, then lapping will help. If it's basically flat, it will help less. I'd personally lap the TRUE but not the processor. If later on you're just missing the overclock you want because of temperatures, that's the time to lap the processor or play with water.
My quad core is not lapped because it's voltage limited more than temperature limited (with a TRUE), so I never bothered. Were temperatures the problem, I'd have no hesitation lapping it whatsoever. Reminds me that I need to polish out the scratches in the bottom of my waterblock as well. Yep, both will be copper blocks with a very thin nickel plating over the top.
Definitely lap the true. It's time consuming, but temps will be better. Hard to say by how much, depends on many factors. I'd estimate 3 degrees, but if the base of your TRUE is particularly curved it'll be more.
Have a look at the processor before doing it. Hold a razor/something else straight against the top and hold it up against a light. That'll give you a fair estimate of how flat it is. If it's very curved, then lapping will help. If it's basically flat, it will help less. I'd personally lap the TRUE but not the processor. If later on you're just missing the overclock you want because of temperatures, that's the time to lap the processor or play with water.
My quad core is not lapped because it's voltage limited more than temperature limited (with a TRUE), so I never bothered. Were temperatures the problem, I'd have no hesitation lapping it whatsoever. Reminds me that I need to polish out the scratches in the bottom of my waterblock as well. Yep, both will be copper blocks with a very thin nickel plating over the top.
Ive learnt quite a lot from you jon, so thanks very much.. Guessing OCuK don't supply a lapping kit.. not that its needed. I'll just get some wet and dry from local store and handy piece of glass (have worked with copper and wet and dry before at uni so shouldnt be too much of an issue)..
Am gonna post my final final spec, so if you can just look over it once more would be appreciated... Hope you pop by my build log too, as you're very helpful!
Am gonna post my final final spec, so if you can just look over it once more would be appreciated... Hope you pop by my build log too, as you're very helpful!
Looks good mate, can see nowhere you could improve.
I think its a good sign when your local computing store doesn't sell things you want for your computer. Wet and dry, glass from somewhere, and cable ties will go a long way. Nail clippers are also good, as they're remarkably good for cutting cable ties in difficult to reach places.
Quite looking forward to the build log, I really like that case. Bed time for me now I think, catch you later man
I think its a good sign when your local computing store doesn't sell things you want for your computer. Wet and dry, glass from somewhere, and cable ties will go a long way. Nail clippers are also good, as they're remarkably good for cutting cable ties in difficult to reach places.
Quite looking forward to the build log, I really like that case. Bed time for me now I think, catch you later man
... damnA lot of people do boot from image, I wonder why its not working out for you.. Wish I could help but I've always had the CD so never needed to boot from image...
Card keeps getting declined :/ Annoying... Shall be calling OcUK tomorrow
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hi all back from night shift if you can call it that.im glad i helped out with the gfx card and im glad you joined me in buying the gtx285,whens your delivery date mines tuesday knowing my luck it will be afternoon.
john i download that bench mark program later after some shut eye,might even do it for my 4850 just out of curosity.gets some pics up of your build tcody i like to see builds in progress here's my one http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=17927553&highlight=username_rick+fowler
john i download that bench mark program later after some shut eye,might even do it for my 4850 just out of curosity.gets some pics up of your build tcody i like to see builds in progress here's my one http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=17927553&highlight=username_rick+fowler
to bad about card not accepting
i got the OS x to load in the end so to not make it long this is what i did to make it work ( http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=328221 )
i got the OS x to load in the end so to not make it long this is what i did to make it work ( http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=328221 )
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