First DSLR: 600d?

Dunks said:
The 50mm 1.8 is a good lens for the money, but I'm not sure how you'll get on with it, it's pretty long on a crop sensor.

I used the Sigma 50mm f/1.4 for a while before swapping to a Sigma 30mm f/1.4, much better focal range imo.
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What he said, i use a 35mm 1.8 on a crop and even thats too long sometimes indoors.
 
danoliver1 said:
What he said, i use a 35mm 1.8 on a crop and even thats too long sometimes indoors.
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Yeah I've noticed this, certainly seems a little long. Hopefully when the weather clears up ill get out and about.

On that point, generally how weather proof are these cameras?
 
Looking at the 600D kit with 18-55mm results in raw, I note a slight blue tinge to zooming into the picture. In Astro-photography this is chromatic aberration (where not all light wavelengths are brought to focus at the same point). I get the same from my achromatic scope. My apochromatic scope (where all light is brought to the same focus - with perhaps infrared or UV being filtered out) doesn't have this.

Are these achromatic rather than apochromatic? How do you differentiate - do lens makers market them as achro or apo etc? A bit of a disappointment but perhaps I'm spoilt in terms of glassware.

Some overcast shots have resulted in ISO3200 being used.. ouch - noise fest! (compared to cooled CCDs)

It's a light camera, with a quality feel in operation - a good point a click mode but also with a range of programable modes. The raw mode is worth the upgrade to her Olympus alone (only saved JPG).
 
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ETTR is only suitable/practical in limited number of situations (increased risk of clipping highlights/blur from slower shutter). Software noise reduction can be time consuming and robs detail/makes pictures look like an oil painting.
If noise is enough of a concern to go through all that hassle, you probably haven't picked the most appropriate tool tbh.
 
An Exception said:
ETTR is only suitable/practical in limited number of situations (increased risk of clipping highlights/blur from slower shutter). Software noise reduction can be time consuming and robs detail/makes pictures look like an oil painting.
If noise is enough of a concern to go through all that hassle, you probably haven't picked the most appropriate tool tbh.
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For her it's fine.. the addition of a better lens (ie aperture) could help here and the portrait shots are fine with the flash engaged.

Probably just used to running CCDs at -10 to -24 degC which reduces noise considerably - coupled with stacking results in really low noise.. something you can't do when your target has any movement!

So I'm guessing this is all down to:
a) right amount of light (signal)
b) right amount of aperture (lower f-stop)
 
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An Exception said:
Yeh I know temps can make a big difference. How big are those CCD's btw?
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The 383L is mono 3362x2504 16 bit with 5.4um pixels. For colour this means using separate red, green and blue filters resulting in a mono 3362x2504 16 bit for each colour. These are then combined.. So unlike a DSLR it doesn't have a Bayer matrix with R,G,G,B etc reducing the colour resolution.
At 670mm this means 1.67 arcsec/pixel resolution at 1340mm this is 0.88 arc/sec pixel where the 105mm aperture has a Dawes limit of 1.10 arcsec/pixel.

Arcsec is the angular resolution.. so 1 arc second is three 10p coins side-by-side at a kilometer away. So I could spot on roughly one pixel (if the atmospheric turbulence was ideal) those three 10p coins at 1340mm.

I'll have to take a day time photo of the bottom of the garden (although the mechanical shutter leaves a little shadow for exposures < 3 sec.

The Titan and 16IC are both small chip 658×492 mono 16bit with 7.4um pixels but without a mechanical shutter can get very fast exposures. Also their Sony sensor is less noisy than the Kodak in the 383..
 
£388 gets you the 600d with the same kit lens from ******* (pay with bank transfer) but as this is a grey import the prices are low. They don't have the 550d anymore by the look of things!

£349 from a UK supplier doesn't sound too bad but I wouldn't really know without checking around :)
 
Simon said:
The 550D is £349 with 18-55 lens.

Is this a good price ?
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600D is £419.99 from the rainforest with same lense if you were after the 600d matey.

Also, Canon are still running their cashback promotion by the looks of things, so you can get £40 on the 600d making it £379 after cashback!
 
You can keep going Simon!

You could have gone T28, T28 standalone management, but then you'd be wanting some forged internals and then........ and then ;) (bit of rover for you ;) )
 
For an extra £50 I would but that's me :P

I have the 650d and the touchscreen is actually very good imo. Looking at the stats, the AF seems better as it has more cross types if you use them and it shoots faster (5fps rather than 3.7). Other than that there's probably not a lot of difference? It has builtin HDR which could be nice if you don't mind the fact that it dumps straight to jpg with no option to dump to RAW

Other than that they're pretty much the same camera so it depends what you think those differences are worth :)
 
600d is about 18 months older and is either about the same price or a little bit cheaper.

Comparing them is still rather pointless since you either want a DSLR or you want a point and shoot. Once you know what you want then the choice should be clear!
 
Phal said:
600d is about 18 months older and is either about the same price or a little bit cheaper.
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It's current tech vs current tech. Even if you compared it to the recently released 650d, the result wouldn't be any different.

I take your point though that you either want a compact or a DSLR. However if your just a casual photographer looking for entry level DSLR + kit lens image quality, then something like an RX100 is a more than feasible alternative considering it offers as good/better IQ (considering the lens aperture advantage), yet is a camera that can be taken anywhere.
 
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