First Water Project: The Mad Titan

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how did you get all 8 sticks of am to work ? i am correct in saying you have 2 x separate kits of 64GB so 8 x 16GB kits .

i cant get 8 sticks of 4GB 3000mhz to run on mine , (godlike) bios 1.7 .

i can get 2666mhz to run perfectly with all 8 sticks . 2 x kits of 4x4GB Avexir red

i also can not get any ram sticks be it 1-4 sticks in any even number slot . even having 2,4,6,8 slots occupied the board wont even post to say overclock failure and just get the Debug codes for no ram detected on the board digi display.

Hey mate, I got mine running at 3ghz on all 8 sticks but haven't tried to get 3200hz working to be honest. Once she is back together I will make sure it's doing just that!
I will let you know as soon as I have had a look at it and hopefully I can help you out with your dilemma! :)

Cheers
Ras
 
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Quick update:

Here is the new through ports for the outlet to the pumps - through the Perspex, case and custom rgb light box! It was a scary drilling session for sure! I am not sure if the light box is going to work... We shall see!!
The new down pipes look WAY better than the old bends, I am really pleased with them!! :) Plus the blue Perspex on the back and bottom looks much better and more vibrant too!

JzuV1LHl.jpg

I have completed the fan upgrades on two of the three radiators and there should be a nice blue hew shining outwardly from these bad boys - having tested four of the 120's on my other project the difference between the cooling of the vardars and the corsair's was literally zero - plus the noise was actually 2dbs lower at its worst! I am not sure if I will switch out the fans on the third radiator at the top... Thoughts?

8FuvDAul.jpg

And lastly - screw nvidia... This HB is useless... I was hoping to mod it... This is the most ridiculous board for a bridge I have ever seen.... I guess I will order an evga bridge and wait for the EK bridge to come along.... Sigh..

kWmw7ydl.jpg

Feedback welcomed!! :)

Cheers
Ras
 
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Soldato
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Your res's are crooked again :p ;) :D

So are you saying the Corsair SP120's and EK Vardar's are the same performance but the SP120's are quieter or vice versa?

Nvidia bridge looks...er, floppy :confused:
 
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Your res's are crooked again :p ;) :D

So are you saying the Corsair SP120's and EK Vardar's are the same performance but the SP120's are quieter or vice versa?

Nvidia bridge looks...er, floppy :confused:

Aw man don't even joke, it took me hours... AGAIN!! Lol! ;)

In my limited testing the corsair fans performed the same as the vardars and were quieter. I will have a better test once I have her back together properly... I will keep you posted! :)

I wish the bridge was floppy... Instead it requires dremmeling and I am fairly sure it would stop working and look **** to boot!

Cheers mate, appreciate your help and support!
Ras
 
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Ah, the ML140's sound interesting. I used some SP120 Performance fans on a build for a friend and was impressed at how much of a draft you could feel through a rad even at low speeds. On paper the SP140s looked naff and other people's reports of them didn't add any confidence. So definitely be interested to hear how you find them both as rad fans and also as case fans - I think I'm stuck with four naff 200mmx20mm fans for my rad unless I want to swap for NINE ML140s instead....at only £180 :eek: I think I may just give that a miss! :D Hoping that Noctua may get round to finishing their 200mm offering and that it will be 25mm or less.
 
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Ah, the ML140's sound interesting. I used some SP120 Performance fans on a build for a friend and was impressed at how much of a draft you could feel through a rad even at low speeds. On paper the SP140s looked naff and other people's reports of them didn't add any confidence. So definitely be interested to hear how you find them both as rad fans and also as case fans - I think I'm stuck with four naff 200mmx20mm fans for my rad unless I want to swap for NINE ML140s instead....at only £180 :eek: I think I may just give that a miss! :D Hoping that Noctua may get round to finishing their 200mm offering and that it will be 25mm or less.

Yeah I have just replaced 11 of my vardars leaving 3 in the rear... Crazy but the look amazing!
Your build seems to be coming along nicely mate! The de-lidding was interesting to read about - scary stuff! Not sure I would do that with my 6950X maybe the 6600k I would though.... :)

Cheers
Ras
 
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I'd probably be happy to do it to your 6950x ;) We're talking about £1200 in price difference though :eek: so I don't think I'd be doing my own either! Mind you, aren't the Extreme series soldered anyway?

New bridge looks good. Much less flacid-looking :D
Just need to make some of that pipework less invisible now ;) :D
 
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I'd probably be happy to do it to your 6950x ;) We're talking about £1200 in price difference though :eek: so I don't think I'd be doing my own either! Mind you, aren't the Extreme series soldered anyway?

New bridge looks good. Much less flacid-looking :D
Just need to make some of that pipework less invisible now ;) :D

I bet! ;) I doubt that there are any gains, as you mention, with the X series chips anyway - thankfully! :D

I like the bridge better than the standard HB and non-HB nVidia bridges but the EVGA logo bothers me.... May have to mod that...

I am avoiding the pipework as I know it will be tough and frustrating.... I wish I was better at bending PETG!

Cheers
Ras
 
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And I at bending acrylic! Only tips I can give you are to make sure you heat a wide enough area for the whole bend - otherwise it sort of folds or narrows.
Also not hot enough and you get problems (starts solidifying before you finish the bend) but too hot and it starts bubbling. Be prepared to waste some finding the sweet(ish) spot.
If you're using metal mandrels (I've got a set of Monsoon 13mm ali and a set of Barrow 12mm ABS plastic) it may be beneficial to warm it up first. Otherwise it cools rapidly when it touches and it all goes pear-shaped! ...at least that's what I found with the ye-haw mandrel I made from some ali tube to get a shorter bend.
 
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And I at bending acrylic! Only tips I can give you are to make sure you heat a wide enough area for the whole bend - otherwise it sort of folds or narrows.
Also not hot enough and you get problems (starts solidifying before you finish the bend) but too hot and it starts bubbling. Be prepared to waste some finding the sweet(ish) spot.
If you're using metal mandrels (I've got a set of Monsoon 13mm ali and a set of Barrow 12mm ABS plastic) it may be beneficial to warm it up first. Otherwise it cools rapidly when it touches and it all goes pear-shaped! ...at least that's what I found with the ye-haw mandrel I made from some ali tube to get a shorter bend.

I know, I guess some are better at it than others! I learned loads from the first lot of bends for the purple and yellow phase and while it wasn't awful I knew it could look better so I just need to buckle down and get on it! :)

I hadn't considered warming my monsoon mandrels, I will now! Cheers! :)

Ras
 
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Nice. I like how they're hub-lit rather than edge-lit....although I guess I'd probably be saying the reverse if all fans I'd seen up to now had been hub-lit and these were edge-lit.
That's some serious cash just on fans.....but then I guess it's easier to justify when it's to cool a pair of Titans! :D
 
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Nice. I like how they're hub-lit rather than edge-lit....although I guess I'd probably be saying the reverse if all fans I'd seen up to now had been hub-lit and these were edge-lit.
That's some serious cash just on fans.....but then I guess it's easier to justify when it's to cool a pair of Titans! :D

Well, my philosophy is if you are going to do something, do it without regret! I just hadn't achieved the look I wanted so, change it! :)

The effect is really cool, I can't wait to get the liquid in now! :)

Cheers
Ras
 
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Update: Leak test complete!

I am really happy with the colours! I wanted a bit more of a gold tinge, but that was impossible to do with a non-auroa type liquid.

b30MLCjl.jpg
Ftmq3bLl.jpg

Now it's time to sort out the lighting and get The Mad Titan ready for benching! :)

Cheers
Ras
 
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