Gearbox/transmission module fault

Okay so I asked the garage to email me their diagnosis.

On inspection the vehicle has been fitted with new front brake pads at some point with an obscene amount of cooper grease on the brake pad sliders.

This has made its way on to the brake discs and contaminated them to the point when warm not being able to brake efficiently.

Copper grease should not be used on modern braking systems as copper and aluminium brake caliper carrier do not mix well and the amount used is here is very excessive.

The vehicle also has a sticking nsr brake caliper which will need to be replaced and the brake fluid in the vehicle is at 5% water content which will also need to be replaced.



So to rectify the vehicle it requires:

New front brake disc and pads

Brake fluid change

Nsr brake caliper
 
tacticalx86 said:
Okay so I asked the garage to email me their diagnosis.

On inspection the vehicle has been fitted with new front brake pads at some point with an obscene amount of cooper grease on the brake pad sliders.

This has made its way on to the brake discs and contaminated them to the point when warm not being able to brake efficiently.

Copper grease should not be used on modern braking systems as copper and aluminium brake caliper carrier do not mix well and the amount used is here is very excessive.

The vehicle also has a sticking nsr brake caliper which will need to be replaced and the brake fluid in the vehicle is at 5% water content which will also need to be replaced.



So to rectify the vehicle it requires:

New front brake disc and pads

Brake fluid change

Nsr brake caliper
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Did @BUDFORCE do your brakes?
 
Told the car dealer under CRA 2015 he is responsible for repairing car however basically told him I don't trust him to repair it so the best option is to let me get it repaired and then reimbursed, at the very least, for the brake pads discs and fluid, not sure if the calipher is directly implicated in what he has done.
 
At this point why are you not looking to just reject the car? The fact that you can't seem to get a straight answer from several mechanics on what the issues might be, you could be chucking lots of money at this over the next year or so. It doesn't sound like it's safe to drive if you're not able to brake when you need to.
 
Semple said:
At this point why are you not looking to just reject the car? The fact that you can't seem to get a straight answer from several mechanics on what the issues might be, you could be chucking lots of money at this over the next year or so. It doesn't sound like it's safe to drive if you're not able to brake when you need to.
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I trust this garage. It sounds exactly like what is causing the issue. The other garage basically did identify it, they just didn't explain it very well, the first garage was absolutely useless (Formula 1 autocentres) and said absolutely nothing was wrong, tbh as soon as I mentioned the transmission OBD thing he started trying to convince me that was the issue and wanted to call his mate who ran a transmission place.

AFAIK the right to reject only exists within the first 30 days of purcahse OR once a repair has been carried out and failed.

From looking online, brake fade is what is happening, and whilst someone on another forum said that but blamed it on me "driving like a dick", grease on the brake discs can cause brake fade.

If I can fix the car, even if I can't get that £544 back, I will. But first port of call is to establish whether I can.
 
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Even if copper grease is on the brake discs you shouldn't need new ones unless they are warped which is highly unlikely with a new set of discs. When new discs are taken out of the packaging most if not all are coated with a thin film of oil to prevent rusting. This is removed by spraying with brake cleaner and wiping and it will do the same with copper grease. You will need new pads if the copper grease has impregnated the pads. Don't let them rip you off for replacing parts that don't actually need anything more than a good clean.

Copper grease is usually applied as a small dab behind the pad to prevent brake squeal. The sliders should have special grease, usually red in colour applied to them as it is rubber friendly.
 
pastymuncher said:
Even if copper grease is on the brake discs you shouldn't need new ones unless they are warped which is highly unlikely with a new set of discs. When new discs are taken out of the packaging most if not all are coated with a thin film of oil to prevent rusting. This is removed by spraying with brake cleaner and wiping and it will do the same with copper grease. You will need new pads if the copper grease has impregnated the pads. Don't let them rip you off for replacing parts that don't actually need anything more than a good clean.

Copper grease is usually applied as a small dab behind the pad to prevent brake squeal. The sliders should have special grease, usually red in colour applied to them as it is rubber friendly.
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To my knowledge it was only the brakepads which were replaced, not the brake discs.
 
The dealer is repeating his claim that they can "just give me the parts" and get it repaired at a garage of my choice, which isn't in line with the CRA. He's saying they ddin't use copper grease whilst simultaneously saying it would have been another garage that installed the brakepads, and that the grease on the discs would not be dangerous or cause this issue
 
Yeah my stop/start doesn’t always activate. I disable it anyway each time I start, but when it’s enabled sometimes it just shows an orange symbol instead of green. Depends on a number of factors whether it will activate but there’s nothing wrong with it.
 
mainly america, but seriously why havent you just started the rejection.
when my daughter bought her galaxy she was told 30 days bla bla bla. actually a trade customer told me if you find a fault at sale you have 6 months comeback, if the garage are stringing you on then reject it.
i wish my daughter had but she kept saying it will be a good car and i like the colour. 3500 later for a recon gearbox and yes its ok but would have saved a lot of hassle.
 
Let the dealer you bought it from have a go, if it's still broken reject it.

It's starting to sound like something you might want to get rid of asap.
 
Sounds more plausible that a vacuum for brakes assist is failing - the copper grease on front brakes wasn't going to stop rear brakes working,
if indeed it had genuinely contaminated front pads - did they provide any pics (had they been replaced due to a previous failed attempt to diagnose problem)
was there a recall/sevice-inspection in the UK, for the vacuum pump issue for your vin.

either need to go back to garage who suspected copper grease and tell them to look further .. or find another more competent garage and approach them with the details of that thread.
 
gc123 said:
mainly america, but seriously why havent you just started the rejection.
when my daughter bought her galaxy she was told 30 days bla bla bla. actually a trade customer told me if you find a fault at sale you have 6 months comeback, if the garage are stringing you on then reject it.
i wish my daughter had but she kept saying it will be a good car and i like the colour. 3500 later for a recon gearbox and yes its ok but would have saved a lot of hassle.
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jpaul said:
Sounds more plausible that a vacuum for brakes assist is failing - the copper grease on front brakes wasn't going to stop rear brakes working,
if indeed it had genuinely contaminated front pads - did they provide any pics (had they been replaced due to a previous failed attempt to diagnose problem)
was there a recall/sevice-inspection in the UK, for the vacuum pump issue for your vin.

either need to go back to garage who suspected copper grease and tell them to look further .. or find another more competent garage and approach them with the details of that thread.
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No recall in the UK, that's the thing, and no recall showing up

They had pics and will show me

And not replaced by anyone else but the dealer
 
So taken it to the dealer. His response was to take it for a car wash to get the grease off the pads and discs...

Anyway I've seen them because I insisted they checked and they seem to look fine. They're doing a brake fluid change.

OBD produced a ton of errors including the ABS and TCM but reset and theyve gone and went for a drive and they didn't appear. Only one which is staying is to do with the voltage for the battery so might explain why the stop/start isn't working now.

They've changed the brake fluid and also cleaned the brakes.
 
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Think I would nonetheless revisit the garage who did the diagnosis, to ask for confirmation that they do not think vacuum pump might be failing,
since the greasy front pads & fluid alone don't necessarily explain why rear brakes wouldn't have stopped car - it is a safety issue after all,

plus tell the dealer that perhaps you have reservation on the garages analysis (so more warranty issues could be incoming)
suppose you can view it as the dealers first attempt to fix the problem, and, hopefully, no more will be needed, that might justify car rejection.
 
jpaul said:
Think I would nonetheless revisit the garage who did the diagnosis, to ask for confirmation that they do not think vacuum pump might be failing,
since the greasy front pads & fluid alone don't necessarily explain why rear brakes wouldn't have stopped car - it is a safety issue after all,

plus tell the dealer that perhaps you have reservation on the garages analysis (so more warranty issues could be incoming)
suppose you can view it as the dealers first attempt to fix the problem, and, hopefully, no more will be needed, that might justify car rejection.
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What's the rear brakes got to do with it, the only rear brake related issue was a calipher on rear drivers side
the last garage i went to didnt think there was an issue with it but when i said the last one did, they said if it was under warranty i might as well get it replaced. so maybe its not that bad

The brake fluid was absolutely terrible tbf I'm surprised there was no warning light for it.
It feels like part of it might be adjustment on my part, maybe i'm not putting my foot fully on the pedal, because it seems to be a lot more effective if i change my position, naturally my foot is more on the right side of the pedal when if its further left its so much better. The mechanic test drove the car before and after the fluid change and it was noticeable for him and for me the improvement.
 
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