Ground Grid, Dynogrid etc etc - anyone used this?

You just need to dig out enough space at each corner to get a drill in, so you can drive the screws home.

If you have the space elsewhere, do a dry run, lay out the frame mark up the holes & drill your pilot holes for corners & pegs, a lot easier than trying to do it in a hole.
 
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That's a good plan!

I was thinking of putting 2 maybe three pegs on each of the sides and attaching them first so each side was just (yeah right...just) a case of putting them into position and then hammering them down? would it be better to put the pegs in first and get them to the level I need then attaching the framing?
 
Better to drive pegs in, then attach 6x2 & level that, then trim off the pegs flush.
Do one side at a time & use the 6x2 as a guide for the peg locations, or use a builder's line.
 
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Well, just ordered up the wood, which will be delivered tomorrow...hopefully first thing, then we can get cracking and get as much done as possible while my parents look after the little man!!! :)
 
I've just been thinking, I'm at a bit of a loss as to how I keep things level as my driveway has a slight slope and I need really to follow the slope of the drive with the grid and hence the sub base layer.

If I was trying to get it flat I'd obviously just use a spirit level but how do I do it to maintain the same slope as the drive has?
 
The way I do it, is, set out the pegs on highest side level first, then level from one of those pegs to the lower peg & using a spacer,ie, a piece of 12mm ply as the fall placed on the lower peg, adjust peg until level, remove ply, & level from that peg all the other lower pegs.
You can check the fall is correct, by using the ply again on other pegs & it should be level from the high to low pegs.
 
I see, I think that makes sense. Though not 100% clear on how to match the existing slope of the drive.

Seeing as my driveway slopes down towards the far edge of the garden that I have dugout, the drive would be the high point and the far edge the low point.

So I could use a straight piece of wood across from the drive to a peg at the far edge, with the spirit level on it (longest spirit level I have is 1m, gap is about 5m). Then use a spacer on the peg to raise the wood until the spirit level is 'level'

But then I'm not quite sure how I ensure the peg is in far enough.If it's not far enough I just won't need such a large spacer and if it's in too far I'll be using a spacer thats bigger...

I'm probably making this much harder than it needs to be but I can't quite get my brain around it...
 
What's the thickness of the ground grid your using, cut a piece of wood same thickness & use that as your spacer.
Start at highest point you need to drive in peg until with the spacer on top, so it's level with your driveway. (Finished Height)
Repeat again with further pegs along driveway, you should be able get fall from these pegs, will need/may additional spacer under wood block to give you your fall.

The pegs will then be at the finished height of the hardcore.
 
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On Friday I had the day off to crack on with this project and get it ready to finally move forward to completion having stalled over the last month or more due to nice weather, a holiday and various evenets etc that have severely limited the time we've had to work on it.

My parents were having the little boy for the day and as soon as he was gone I set up my tools on the driveway ready to get to work. After a bit of brain work to think about the best way to tackle things we began by cutting some 2x2 in to lengths to use as pegs to hold the framing we were putting in place which will contain the subbase and hold the grid in place.

Workshop:
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With a couple of pegs in place we set about cutting the 6x2 timber for the side making sure it was long enough and cutting one end at the right angle to match the curved driveway. My sliding mitre saw from Lidl turned out to be a brilliant purchase, cutting the board even at the angle was so simple.

Once cut we marked where the top of the grid would come to up the board. We then offered the board up to the edge and found we needed to dig out a little more. Once we were happy the board was at the right height and level we screwed it to the pegs using decking screws.

Side one in place:
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We then moved on to the second board, measured where it needed to come to in order to fit the gridding nicely and hammer in two pegs. Again, cutting the board was a nice simple job. And once again we needed to dig out a bit more to get the board at the right level but soon it was in place.

Side two in place:
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The third side was a little more tricky as the ground was so hard but we persevered and finally got it in place. With the three sides of framing in place the front garden was finally looking like we were actually doing something with it rather than just being a partially dug out mess as it has been for the past few weeks!!

All we had to do then was ensure it was dug out enough to give room for the aggregate base and the grid. Living in an area with very clayey (sp?) soil this is always a chore as the ground bakes so hard you can barely get the tip of a spade into it, so I set about it with the spade end of a pickaxe I've borrowed from our neighbours. That and some damping got the surface broken up nicely and with my girlfriend raking it into piles and me shovelling we finally got it to the fdepth we wanted all over!! Here it is ready for the next stage - 2 tonnes of aggregate to be added and compacted!

Side 3 in place - finished and ready for the aggregate!!
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When starting the project, never having done anything like this, I hadn't really realised just how much earth would need to be dug out....had I known I would have hired a digger and done it all in one go but as they say, you live and learn!!! We currently have huge amounts of earth sitting around the front of the house as you can see in the pics below...and this doesn't include about 40 sacks (the small ones in the second pic) or both turf and earth that we've already taken to the tip!!!

Earth moving:
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As mentioned earlier in the thread I have decided to use this soil to fill the grid once it's down as it will only be grass growing in it so it doesn't need perfect and lovely top soil. The rest I was going to get rid of but I have decided I will use it level up areas of the lawn come the autumn as once again that won't need brilliant soil and it would be daft to spend out on something I've already had but gotten rid of!!



The next step before the aggregate arrives is to sort out the drain cover so it matches the level of the grid once it's finished. I've decided to get a new recessed cover, these are designed for putting block paving etc into so they can be matched to the area and be discreet. I will cut some grid to fit and add a couple of small drain holes then it can be filled and grassed to match the rest of the grided area.

My only concern in this is that some of the drain covers are quite deep and I might not have the depth needed to get it level with the grid without removing the toplayer of brick around the drain opening. This however would then leave the level too low and I'm not quite sure how I could then bring the level up to where I need it...
 
Making good progress, & it's looking very good.:)

With regards to the manhole, if you have a grinder, it is possible to cut engineering bricks in half.

In the past I done similar jobs lowering & raising manholes, I found it's better to remove two courses, bed the half brick course first, then laid final course as whole bricks.

If you drill holes in manhole cover, lay in a piece of geotextile before adding the soil.
 
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Cheers, was hard work on Friday, the front garden gets blazing sun from about 11.00 on wards so we were roasting all day!!

Thanks for your very helpful knowledge and advice, it's really given me the confidence to get on do this project! :)

Sadly I don't have a grinder. I could probably borrow one but have never used one so wouldn't be very confident about cutting bricks down...

Are there any other options for raising the level a bit?

Someone else mentioned laying a piece of geotextile fabric in the manhole cover if drilling holes, why would this be, is it to act as a sort of filter to stop dirt washing down the holes or something?
 
Someone else mentioned laying a piece of geotextile fabric in the manhole cover if drilling holes, why would this be, is it to act as a sort of filter to stop dirt washing down the holes or something?

Yes, over time you will find holes will clog, or if holes are big, then you will gradually loose the finer particle of soil first, then the larger bits as it breaks down

Grinders are ok if you keep you feet out of the way & wear correct footwear, seen many accidents over the years, where peeps have put the grinder through their foot, lost toes, or the grinder jumps back & they take a piece out of their leg.:D

You could take a course of bricks off, then make up some shuttering to fit inside & outside the manhole, then pour a concrete riser to the height you need.
Would put a screws few fixings like your decking screws in the brickwork so concrete has something to adhere too.
 
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Yes, over time you will find holes will clog, or if holes are big, then you will gradually loose the finer particle of soil first, then the larger bits as it breaks down.

Makes sense really.

Grinders are ok if you keep you feet out of the way & wear correct footwear, seen many accidents over the years, where peeps have put the grinder through their foot, lost toes, or the grinder jumps back & they take a piece out of their leg.:D.

And that is why I'm not confident of using a grinder...lol

You could take a course of bricks off, then make up some shuttering to fit inside & outside the manhole, then pour a concrete riser to the height you need.
Would put a screws few fixings like your decking screws in the brickwork so concrete has something to adhere too.

Hmmm, maybe that would be the way to go, though would be a lot of work... This evening I shall try chipping away the existing mortar and see what space I have to work with, it might be that I can get away without having to resort to such measures...fingers firmly crossed!
 
One other thing cut a piece of ply or other sheet material to fit correctly inside the manhole, just need a bearer each side to support it & a handle on ply to lift it back out.

It will stop 99% of the rubble from dropping down in to the manhole, saves a lot of grief have to get out bits, especially if it's a deep manhole.
 
Having made a start at chipping away the mortar holding the drain cover in place I'm pretty sure I am going to have to remove the top layer of bricks to get enough height to put in a recessed drain cover. Which means a bit more digging again just when I thought I had finished with digging.

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To fill the space, as suggested, I shall lay a layer of half bricks. I was wondereing how I might cut them seeing as I don't have and have never used a grinder...

Then yesterday evening whilst chatting to my neighbour, he said he had a grinder in his van and would cut some bricks for me if I had some. As luck would have it we had found some bricks in the back garden buried amongst the moss and overgrown grass when we moved in.

I took the bricks to the front garden and my neighbour turned up with this gigantic petrol engined Makita grinder which looked like some kind of weapon from Gears of War. A few minutes later I had a pile of half bricks ready for me to use.

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Also, my freshly dug front garden is now a lovely shade of salmon pink.

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As were my shoes...which I wear to work...

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The next stage is to do some measuring to ensure I know what depth I have to play with, then I can order up the drain cover and begin removing the bricks.
 
Those bricks are not engineering bricks, but plain old commons which arn't really suitable for manholes, too soft.


Bought a recessed manhole cover yesterday, £55:95p in Wickes,:eek: surprised how much they cost the, last one I bought was about £28 from Wickes about 10 years ago.
 
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As the parking is going to get occasional use at most (literally maybe on a friday evening if we've got people round) it should be ok to use those bricks shouldn't it?

Yeah recessed manhole covers are fairly pricy, though can be got online for about £40 depending on the size needed...
 
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