Growing Chillies

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Sounds like something quick growing to fit in with our 'short' summer. They need to be ready to flower/fruit when we get some sun!

I'm not sure on varieties and how fast they grow either but I know japalenos seem to be quick. Best thing would be to ask on the Chilli Galore forums.
 
How long do the seedlings take to germinate?

I put them in a plastic tub with wet cotton wool in my bedroom about 5 days ago and so far nothing.

What kind of moisture content and temps are needed for germination? The room temp is a bout 22*C which should mean the seeds are the same.

Do you know the type?

Naga/Bonnets/Bhut etc take can take 6+ weeks and are very demanding about temps (well about everything!). I had a few that took ages and appeared after I thought they'd died!
 
couple of my plants are now getting their second sets of leaves :)

will repot them soon

If they're in their own pots already, I'd wait and just leave them to become pot bound first.


My current problem is that the Naga's are looking at bit unhappy at the moment. I think this is down to the temps getting to cold at night (turned the heating off and I have a window open in the bedroom) and they're tall enough at the moment they're getting too close to the lamp. Also I think they had to get used to being repotted too (which explains the growth).

The Jalapenos are going great guns - lots of peppers and flowers.
 
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11days in:
Woot 7/18 have sprouted.

The question is, at night the temperature can drop to 22degrees and during the day upto 32degrees. Should I wait until more sprout. Or should I be opening up the ventilation holes know, maybe just during the hot days?

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Superb. I was wondering how you got on.
You'll need to give them light now - lots of it to prevent them from being leggy (long thin stems that don't support their weight). Also if they start falling over they'll keep that bend into adult life and the pot will overbalance and fall over when the water has been sucked out of it! (4 of my Japalenos are like this, the others are perfectly upright and don't need anything to prop them up.

I would wait a little until their first set of leaves have grown, then repot into small pots (even plastic drinks cups with holes in the bottom). Certainly repot them out of the single block of soil otherwise they'll be a pig to separate later. When you repot, get a bag of Pearlite and Vermiculite. These are cheap and easy to find in garden centres in the potting areas.
Then use a mixture of soil, pearlite and vermiculite such as 1/3 each or 1/2 soil, 1/4 each of v and p. This will help the water drain out and allow the roots to breath. Chillies hate having their roots in water.

At night - 22 is fine. Even my Naga's like that. 32 is ok at the moment but later they'll wilt a little and use a lot of water. Once they're bigger they'll probably prefer 27-29 during the day. Into the 30s with masses of light is probably a sure way of getting steam hot chillies :D


I have lots and lots of fruit on the Jalapenos. Some are starting to show signs of tinting from green so I think they're starting to ripen. They're now holding steady at about 45 cm tall in the 12 cm pots and seem happy.

The three large (80 cm tall!) Nagas threw a hissy fit after their much needed repotting into 21 cm pots. It was the right thing for them but they dropped all their main stem leaves in protest (the branch leaves were fine). I think this was also partly because I stopped heating at night and we started getting some colder nights again. Now with minimal heating at night they're looking a lot happier.
They have flowers but they're not producing pollen - a second sign of stress from the repotting/cold.
The two small Nagas are still in their 12 cm pots sitting on the shelf away from cold draughts and one is happy as larry and looks stunning. The other is not a happy bunny as it is showing signs of stress which I think are down to the soil not draining properly.

The scotch bonnets are looking bonny - they're more delicate looking than the Jalapenos and are flowering but haven't set fruit yet. Need to experiment to find out what makes them tick.
 
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Will get the light set up tomorrow. What do you do just leave it on for like 10 hours?
As it's led wont be much heat coming from it like your set up.

didn't go for the jalapeños in the end, as I've lost the seeds
so got the other 4

Yup - I tried 24 hour light initially but found that they grow more during the 8-9 hours of darkness at night.
I give mine 7am to 10-11pm. The long hours generate a good temperature too so they think it's summer :D

You'll need to find the right level above the seedlings too. Too close and they'll get scorched (even just light), too far away.. well you get the idea.
I'd look at making a little cardboard box lid for your prop - then you can line it with reflective foil to maximise the light and retain heat. At the moment you should be fine. Probably worth using both panels and then swapping them over each day so they get blue and red.

7 plants is good but remember the sizing of the adult plant if you repot into larger pots!!

I'm starting to eye up my loft ;) However all the grow tents are maximum of 200cm high.. which is too low for the 400W light.
 
Well the Hot cherry are doing amazingly well. 5 out of 6 have sprouted and growing massively.

The fratellis 3 out of 6 have sprouted but they look shrivelled. Any ideas why, too hot to moist?

Ahh just give them time and some light and they'll be ok. Soon enough they'll sprout more leaves. It's a learning/experiement to find what works - it could be how much light they're getting.. how close is the panel normally?
Additionally if they're in a cold draught that will occur too.
Remember these are the 'baby' leaves that don't really grow large. The next leaves that will appear will be the first set of proper leaves.
Some of mine were really messy with their baby leaves but they've done well so just leave them to it.

Just make sure at this stage the stems are growing straight up or they'll be a pain later (they'll 'set' in that position later).

And the Hungarian hots and peach harbenaros 50% have sprouted and are looking good.

Really could do with two panels, but I'm rotating. Is it a good idea to use both red and blue lights at the same time? Or should red only be used when you want them to fruit when they are larger?

Well firstly they like the brightness, so any light is better than no light! I've grown a few seedlings under just HPS (equivalent to red) and they do grow slower but they still grow. They may start developing buds quicker but in the end, they'll only really start flowering/setting once the plant's are happy.

The temptation to add more hardware (lights etc) is always there.. best thing is to think ahead a little more as you may find that it's cheaper (and more effective overall) to jump to CFL rather than continuing to invest in additional LED lights.

I'd also really advise on the box lined with reflective kitchen aluminium foil which will maximise the light utilisation too.
 
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CFl along these lines?
Is there anything I need to know about CFL?
What connection does the bulb have. are they just normal screw/bayonet. Or do something else.

Ahh yup -exactly. I'd be slightly worried that the reflector is mirrored rather than dispersal which could cause hot spots but that's not so much of a problem with 200/250W CFL..

This is the same bulb/reflector I think (the photos and comments will answer a lot of your questions):
http://www.greenshorticulture.co.uk/CFL-Lights-95/CFL-Grow-Lights-122/Budget-250W-CFL-System-800.asp

Basically you'll need the E40 connector in the reflector (the bulb fitting is larger than a standard bulb) and as it's self-ballasting you just plug it straight into the normal mains.
 
do these look ready for repotting yet? there in a tray of about 1 inch soil atm

Yes. They look just right.
They may sulk for a few days after and then pep up again.

I'd also rotate the tray 180 each day so they get used to growing straight otherwise they'll stay bent and the adult plant will be a pain to keep upright!

Just make sure that the soil mixture is well draining - get the pearlite and vermiculite mixed in. Either 1/2 soil to 1/4 each v & p, or, just use a 1/3 of each. Mix thoroughly and break up the clumps.

When you repot bury the plant stem just a few mm short of it's baby leaves. It may look odd by that part of the plant will sprout roots and the stem will be secured upright rather than falling over.. a couple of my plants I didn't do this and they wobble. The better repotted Nagas are rock steady.

Once repotted - start watering by bottom up (a good habit) when they need it (ie lower leaves start wilting). This ensures you're not over watering. It may be a little as once a week.. but each variety/plant and maturity will make a difference.. best thing is to watch them.
They'll not need chilli feed and usually attempting to feed them too much causes them to droop etc. Only later when they're heavy in flower/fruit they may need more.

The pot size does have an effect on the size of the plant and when it flowers/fruits. A plant will contiinue growing until it's roots become pot bound. At which point it usually stops growing and starts flowering/fruiting. The size of pot defines the amount of roots which defines the nutrients which then defines the size of the plant.

My Nagas in 12 cm pots are 1/2 the height and width of the 21 cm repotted nagas (they've not stopped growing yet!) which are beasts at 80+ cm tall. The small pots are also looking like their flowers will mature and create pollen (because they're now pot bound). Repotting the large pots caused the plants to stress out and their flowers haven't matured and they dropped some of their lower leaves in shock.

I've left my Jalapenos in the 12 cm pots and they're perfect size (and have a lot of fruit!).

You want to repot in stages to ensure that the roots grow to use all the space. going from seedling tray to monster 50cm pot isn't a good idea unless you know exactly how big it's going to get!

In short: small pot = smaller plant/foliage quick to fruit, less fruit growing at one time. Large pot = slower to fruit but more fruit at one time from a large plant with large amounts of foliage..
 
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One thing - getting a fan to blow the warm air (ie the warm air in the room) at them is a good idea as it will strengthen the stems, will keep the humidity under the leaves down (lowers chance of molds).

Once they're beyond seedlings they don't need humidity.
 
Bigchez - they look good and I was wondering about the 'odd' chilli until I read Aubergine!. What species did you go for? They look similar to my Jalapeno leaves so I'm assuming they're in the same family.
 
Short update - those that have Nagas/Bhuts take note.. this is what happens when you repot from 12 cm to 21 cm..

Spot the naga..
IMG_1190.jpg


From the top of the base of the plant..
IMG_1191.jpg


Now this is annoying.. they've dropped their stem leaves (except the one right at the back) which makes me think that there's a draught. Also these are too big for the space :cry: so I'm going to have to find a friendly fellow to rehome them. Possibly start again with smaller pots.

This is a very happy ikkle naga left in it's inital 12 cm pot done as a seedling.. stress free.. this is one of the late germinators. I decided to leave it in it's small pot.
IMG_1193.jpg


Still probably going to be a medium sized plant but the leaves and flowering look much better than the big nagas.
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what are these?

They're an inert mineral that has been heated to a high temperature which causes them to expand leaving lattice structure.

Pearlite - hard, white and has the consistency of Cruchie honeycomb. Will store water.

Vermiculite - soft squeezy, brown/bronze looking and stores water.

When mixed into soil they prevent it from packing hard which allows the water to drain through leaving it moist but not waterlogged and prevents the roots from suffocating.

Chilli plants hate (and I mean hate) having their roots in standing water. It's better to let them wilt with dehydration and then place the pot into a bucket of water to soak for 5-10 minutes then let drain before placing back into position. The Nagas get this once a week, or so.
Watering from the top is ok, although you may not get a good penetration (the water may channel out to the bottom of the pot).

The pots you chose should have holes at the bottom to allow excess water to drain out (and obviously in for this better soak based watering).
 
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