Hotness seems to vary quite a bit. I suspect that non-supermarket Nagas are probably hotter as Tesco want the sales but not the complaints about being too hot; so probably using the Naga reputation.
Growing Chillies
- Thread starter NickK
- Start date
- Status
Hotness seems to vary quite a bit. I suspect that non-supermarket Nagas are probably hotter as Tesco want the sales but not the complaints about being too hot; so probably using the Naga reputation.
It's only going to get colder with shorter days as we enter autumn. The more artificial support they'll need in terms of heating and electric lighting.
As others have said you'd be looking at december for fruiting. I can tell you from experience that you'll need some expensive-to-run lighting to get them through it. So it's probably better to prepare and wait for next year.
I've pretty much given up hope on my Nagas. They flower - and now have pollen but don't set fruit with manual pollination. I reckon they're so inbred that they extremely overly sensitive.
Shortly (this/next week) I'll place them in the windowsill and let them go into hibernation naturally. If they make it through the winter (this place gets so so cold) it'll be a miracle.
If the plant feels cold or in need etc then it will drop the flowers so don't worry about doing that manually.
Keep going and keep them warm and out the way of draughts as these will be icy cold soon. Give them as much light as you can on the windowsill.
Awesome Nagas. Have they set fruit yet?
Cold weathers hit again and it's drooped again.
Was commenting on the fridge like draught tonight - closed the windows.
Just keep them warm and out of cold draught and they'll recover.
I think summer is over..
Do you or anyone that comes into contact with you/the plants smoke?
Check out Tobacco Mosaic Virus as this has a mottled mosaic browning of the leaves. If it is immediately burn the plant, the pot, any remaining leaf litter and if possible sterilise any of the tools used.
Alternatively you could just have insects biting and transferring an infection between the leaves.
Check out Tobacco Mosaic Virus as this has a mottled mosaic browning of the leaves. If it is immediately burn the plant, the pot, any remaining leaf litter and if possible sterilise any of the tools used.
Alternatively you could just have insects biting and transferring an infection between the leaves.
Yes you can "over winter", often they're better in their second year if they make it.
Usually the process is to first let the sap draw back in the cooler darker weather, the leaves will naturally drop off. Then cut the branches off and trim back to the main stem but leaving enough to base the growth on for next year.
You're supposed to trim the root ball back too but that seems a little harsh!
I've not done over wintering but I have recently cut my Naga's back to start the growth afresh. It seems fine.
I think it depends on the species or even the plant. I've never had any luck with just tapping flowers so I use a wooden peg.
This is just a normal flower wilt.
Flowers can be dropped due to many reasons:
* insufficient light exposure
* too cold, too hot and temperature range too great (cold draught or cold evening/morning will do it too)
* not enough water
* not enough feed, missing nutrients
* non-fertilisation, also under developed flower just got to the end of it's life
* disease
etc
It seems plants prioritise importance: fruit, leaves and lastly flowers so expect a few dropped flowers.
Last edited:
Do you have a photo of the leaf? As it's hard to say otherwise. Are these new leaves or older leaves?
Yes these are germinating nicely. The root comes out first then burrows down and you'll then see it attempt to lift the leaves out of the seed casing. The same is happening in this photo (this is the same fruiting Naga above!):
Skeeter or 5ingha are probably the best people to talk to about with respect moving from cotton wool to soil. They'll be quite sensitive to heat, so wait a little longer.
The options are that you could move to Jiffy pellets (which won't really be needed as they do the same function that you've already done) or straight to potting compost in pots. I would use potting compost rather than normal as it's finer and will give the roots something to get stuck into.
I would use a mix to make up the soil in the pots:
3/5 - potting compost
1/5 - perlite
1/5 - vermiculite
Perlite and vermiculite help break up the soil and prevent it from packing hard over time which suffocates the roots. They also improve the drainage which prevents rotting of the roots.
Shove the mixture into a pot (with a pot saucer thingy), leaving a 3/4 to 1 inch of pot unfilled (you'll see why) and then place the germinated seed into the soil but not deep.
Once the plant has grown and it's first set of leaves have risen above the top of the pot, add additional mixture to fill the pot.
My only concern is that it's late in the season for growing new plants so you may have to focus on growing the plant and then building up it's reserves to over winter.
Last edited:
Well I cut all three Nagas and the scotch bonnet back to just the main stem (ie at the first Y branch).
The Turbo-Naga, which seems to be the fastest and strongest of the plants has grown back to being a full tree - that's the one that's fruited in the pics above.
The other two nagas have always been slower, partly because they're in the shadow of the TN. They're a good bushy size.
The Scotch bonnet didn't really make it, it seems to be stunted in terms of minimal foliage. So I don't know exactly what's going on there.
I'm planning to let the TN fruit out, then as it gets colder let the plants decide it's cooler and I'll probably cut back to just the stem.
Plants over wintering can be just a wooden stem with no leaves. These may look dead but usually spring back to life in spring an grow faster than seedlings because the plant has a good infrastructure.
The idea with over wintering is make the plant go dormant. So it doesn't expend energy with foliage and growth. During this state it also only requires minimal watering. Well that's the idea. Some people cut the plant back to the main stem and trim the roots too. I don't think I'll cut the roots.
The Turbo-Naga, which seems to be the fastest and strongest of the plants has grown back to being a full tree - that's the one that's fruited in the pics above.
The other two nagas have always been slower, partly because they're in the shadow of the TN. They're a good bushy size.
The Scotch bonnet didn't really make it, it seems to be stunted in terms of minimal foliage. So I don't know exactly what's going on there.
I'm planning to let the TN fruit out, then as it gets colder let the plants decide it's cooler and I'll probably cut back to just the stem.
Plants over wintering can be just a wooden stem with no leaves. These may look dead but usually spring back to life in spring an grow faster than seedlings because the plant has a good infrastructure.
The idea with over wintering is make the plant go dormant. So it doesn't expend energy with foliage and growth. During this state it also only requires minimal watering. Well that's the idea. Some people cut the plant back to the main stem and trim the roots too. I don't think I'll cut the roots.
- Status