Has anyone done a Swytch conversion?

bainbridge

bainbridge

bainbridge

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I'm considering this as a cheaper alternative to spending £1500+ on a ebike for the gf which I know she'll use for 2 days of the year. Plus she likes the colour of her pink bike.

Anyone done the conversion, and if so, what do you think?
 
Well I guess there's not much interest!

Maybe it's because this subforum is called Pedal Powered rather than Powered Pedals :)

If I do go ahead and get the kit I'll report back on the results anyway, just in case anyone is interested.
 
You can see my previous posts in that link above.

I was considering a Swytch as it is fairly straight forward for a light conversion. Only real limitation for most people is the battery size so I would advise to go for the extended battery. Haven't checked for a while but you pay more for an off the shelf unit or go on their list and then they build them in batches to pass on the cost savings.

After a year or so of riding the off road Dillinger kit I can say the UK 250W limit is plenty for most people just after some gentle assistance. Mid-mount motors are far superior for hilly terrain and in general due to having gears between it and the rear wheel. Hub motors can be more convenient to fit and work fine on the flats for some assistance.

I had to upgrade to a gravel bike to allow bigger tyres (37C) as my skinny ass tyres on my Felt (max 28C) road bike couldn't handle the weight of the 750W motor and large battery. I broke several spokes before giving up!
 
Seems like a good idea but I can't bring myself to give them any money simply based on their horrendously annoying adverts that I seem to get all the time.
 
bimbleuk said:
Yeah same here but I looked into it and I realised it's actually a decent well thought out product rather than just clever (annoying) marketing.
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Oh it looks good and I did a bit of googling and it seems very well reviewed. I just hate the advert. It helps that I am not in the market for an ebike conversion as well ;)

If I was getting one it would be something like the Orbea Rise. A moderately powered eMTB rather than a go-around bike.
 
Just buy a Yose Power kit, way better.
I've just received a Yose Power 700c for a mates bike and he's bought a 36v 15ah battery from Yose Power.

Both my conversions use Cyclotricity parts but they are the same as the above.
You can see by the cables and controller you can't make a mistake.

yosepower.jpg


This is a similar kit on one of mine -

TrekFX7.5.jpg


My MTB

Trek4300.jpg
 
SexyGreyFox said:
Just buy a Yose Power kit, way better.
I've just received a Yose Power 700c for a mates bike and he's bought a 36v 15ah battery from Yose Power.
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I won't knock other kits because my Dillinger kit for example is very comprehensive and upgradable as it uses the most common component interconnects. Though it is more expensive.

The Swytch kit when bought at the cheaper group price is a very well judged lite conversion as most of the gubbins are in the battery/BMS bag.

My conversion though far superior in outright performance has some compromises. Such as having to shuffle bags and bottle mounts to fit with the battery installed. Weight is an issue for skinner tyres but I was able to install the weight lower compared to the standard Swytch location.

Basically if you want a no fuss ebike buy an off the shelf mid-drive bike that comes with a warranty and get it on the Cycle to Work scheme!

I like the convenience of having a swappable rear wheel to go back to a road bike for weekends. The only reason I haven't gone for a Bafang mid-drive conversion on one of my bikes.

SlY6jgZ.jpg
 
bimbleuk said:
I won't knock other kits because my Dillinger kit for example is very comprehensive and upgradable as it uses the most common component interconnects. Though it is more expensive.

The Swytch kit when bought at the cheaper group price is a very well judged lite conversion as most of the gubbins are in the battery/BMS bag.

My conversion though far superior in outright performance has some compromises. Such as having to shuffle bags and bottle mounts to fit with the battery installed. Weight is an issue for skinner tyres but I was able to install the weight lower compared to the standard Swytch location.

Basically if you want a no fuss ebike buy an off the shelf mid-drive bike that comes with a warranty and get it on the Cycle to Work scheme!

I like the convenience of having a swappable rear wheel to go back to a road bike for weekends. The only reason I haven't gone for a Bafang mid-drive conversion on one of my bikes.
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Just been on the Dillinger site and you're correct, they use KT/Julet connectors the same as Yose Power and Cyclotricity.
It looks like the controller is built into the battery holder which saves a bit of space.
For similar gear Yose Power does come in a lot cheaper and if you bought from Cyclotricity UK they are way dearer than Yose Power even though it's the same.
It's the same with anything bought in the UK, they want to add their bit on top.

Three things:
1) Yours is the first conversion I've seen on a road bike
2) I've only just got rid of my Topeak bag after 12 years, decided to use a rucksack. I had the really big Topeak that I called my Mary Poppins bag because I could get so much in it.
3) Consider going back to normal pedals, after raving about cleats for around 8 years I tried normal pedals and there was zero difference but I had the advantage of not having to keep messing about getting my shoes in and out of the cleats. I was also thankful when I was hit side on and th eCopper said it was a good job I wasn't wearing cleats because I would have been under the car instead of being thrown away.
 
SexyGreyFox said:
Three things:
1) Yours is the first conversion I've seen on a road bike
2) I've only just got rid of my Topeak bag after 12 years, decided to use a rucksack. I had the really big Topeak that I called my Mary Poppins bag because I could get so much in it.
3) Consider going back to normal pedals, after raving about cleats for around 8 years I tried normal pedals and there was zero difference but I had the advantage of not having to keep messing about getting my shoes in and out of the cleats. I was also thankful when I was hit side on and th eCopper said it was a good job I wasn't wearing cleats because I would have been under the car instead of being thrown away.
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1) As mentioned I did have to buy a new bike to get it to be reliable! 37C tyres would be a good minimum start which are only available on gravel bikes. Maybe a mid-drive would work on skinnier tyres but then it's so much more comfortable while commuting (32C for weekend rides). Don't underestimate the weight of an ebike conversion.

2) If I had planned ahead I'd have bought a DX rack to match the DX bag which slides in.

3) I'll consider it for the commute bike. Only accident so far was a hit from behind but plenty of idiot drivers including a van overtaking into a blind corner only today!

Big cost for the Dillinger kit seems to be the 48V 13ah battery which so say has superior Samsung cells. I've seen some comparisons between branded and cheaper cells so I thought I'd pay the extra. Comes from driving an EV with a super expensive battery. They also have great support. They followed up the sale with a courtesy call/email asking if everything was OK plus my feedback. When I broke a couple of spokes on the first bike they sent a set of replacement spokes free of charge even though they aren't actually covered under warranty.
 
bimbleuk said:
2) If I had planned ahead I'd have bought a DX rack to match the DX bag which slides in.
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I now have two since I've removed them from both eBikes above

bimbleuk said:
Big cost for the Dillinger kit seems to be the 48V 13ah battery which so say has superior Samsung cells. I've seen some comparisons between branded and cheaper cells so I thought I'd pay the extra.
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Yes Samsung batteries are supposed to be the best, I have them in my batteries.
 
Must say i'm tempted. I'm about to buy a bike which is fine for me, and we've talked about getting us both a bike for ages so been looking at electric bikes for the wife. She wants a step through type and i've seen a Pendleton Somerby electric bike locally for sale for £400 which may need a new battery (the advert suggests this is priced in but i'm wondering if i can repair it)

If it does need a new battery though then it's getting towards £700.

I'm now wondering whether it makes more sense to just buy a regular bike for her and add the Swytch system which would get to a similar cost at the worst case scenario. Plus it gives me the option to fit it to my bike if i ever want to in the future and she's not using it. The current pre-order window is coming to an end. @bainbridge have you gone for it?
 
@bimbleuk Yes I read your posts and, though I'd like MORE POWER! I took on board your experience regarding wattage.

@Martynt74 Yes I've pre ordered x2 kits (I have to have one too :) ), for the gf I've ordered the standard Eco kit, with black wheel/hub to match her bike, and for myself I've ordered the Pro kit, again with black wheel/hub, with a thumb throttle too. Also ordered torque arms for both kits, probably overkill but a couple of small torque washers don't seem up to the job IMO.

Just waiting for them to be manufactured and delivered now!
 
Awesome.

I’ve only just bought myself a bike so I’m looking forward to going down a long road of messing around. Just ordered a hydraulic bleed kit so praying I don’t mess that up!

Have seen a used electric bike for my wife. At £500 it seems a better option at this point as she’s very keen on a Dutch style bike and without having something already it probably makes sense.
 
Martynt74 said:
Awesome.

I’ve only just bought myself a bike so I’m looking forward to going down a long road of messing around. Just ordered a hydraulic bleed kit so praying I don’t mess that up!

Have seen a used electric bike for my wife. At £500 it seems a better option at this point as she’s very keen on a Dutch style bike and without having something already it probably makes sense.
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That sounds reasonable, many ebikes I've seen are Dutch style. One thing to bear in mind is the condition of the batteries on a used ebike. They're only good for a limited number of charging cycles before the degradation really starts to affect the performance. I'd recommend finding out the cost and availability of replacement batteries and factoring that in, just in case.
 
bainbridge said:
That sounds reasonable, many ebikes I've seen are Dutch style. One thing to bear in mind is the condition of the batteries on a used ebike. They're only good for a limited number of charging cycles before the degradation really starts to affect the performance. I'd recommend finding out the cost and availability of replacement batteries and factoring that in, just in case.
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Absolutely, in 10 years I am now on my 3rd set of batteries for each bike.
 
SexyGreyFox said:
Absolutely, in 10 years I am now on my 3rd set of batteries for each bike.
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Hopefully I've bought better cells from Dillinger but just in case I also invested in a Luna charger (imported from the US!) which can be programmed for charge rate and charge percentage. So charge to 80% for storage and then charge higher just before hoping on the bike to cycle to work. Same discipline I apply to my big EV except I tend to keep the big EV at a lower SOC range see below.

Bike batteries being smaller have a noticeable power/torque drop over the capacity. Larger higher voltage packs have less drop off. 36V packs are common and relatively cheap 48V becoming more available and 52V was desirable but too expensive when I bought mine.
 
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bainbridge said:
@bimbleukAlso ordered torque arms for both kits, probably overkill but a couple of small torque washers don't seem up to the job IMO.
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It the kit is going to stay on the bike then torque arms are a bit of insurance against the motor twisting in the forks. May be a tight fit so no problem but helps to mitigate bike tolerances.

I have one but because I swap rear wheels often I've stopped fitting it. I also ditched the throttle because I only want assistance and applying the throttle at low speed with a potential 1000W (500W nominal) motor instantly spinning up was definitely inviting a small disaster :)
 
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