Hazro dilemma

BananaDunka · 30 Aug 2011 at 13:13

You don't need an OSD to hardware calibrate but having basic controls like contrast and brightness to initially set a value that's comfortable is ideal.

I have the i1Display2 and it's quite a fine piece of kit, hasn't missed a beat yetand calibrations on my screen continues with good results each run every few months as the backlight shifts around.

Tephnos · 30 Aug 2011 at 13:17

mrk said:
You don't need an OSD to hardware calibrate but having basic controls like contrast and brightness to initially set a value that's comfortable is ideal.

I have the i1Display2 and it's quite a fine piece of kit, hasn't missed a beat yetand calibrations on my screen continues with good results each run every few months as the backlight shifts around.

Ah. The C version can only control the backlight, no OSD contrast control.

BananaDunka · 30 Aug 2011 at 13:21

That may well be enough, does it have colour temp control?

Tephnos · 30 Aug 2011 at 13:22

mrk said:
That may well be enough, does it have colour temp control?

No controls at all. You only get the backlight and volume control. It's the A version that comes with the OSD.

BananaDunka · 30 Aug 2011 at 13:28

You can still do a successful calibration with only backlight control if you use a suitable probe like the i1D2. Just set the backlight to a comfortable level then run the calibration for 6500K, Gamma 2.2 and and skip the steps to adjust brightness/contrast etc. The final stage is to set the right colour temp and analyse the results and fine tune. You should end up with a result that is 6500k, Gamma 2.2 and a black level around 0.38.

Tephnos · 30 Aug 2011 at 13:35

mrk said:
You can still do a successful calibration with only backlight control if you use a suitable probe like the i1D2. Just set the backlight to a comfortable level then run the calibration for 6500K, Gamma 2.2 and and skip the steps to adjust brightness/contrast etc. The final stage is to set the right colour temp and analyse the results and fine tune. You should end up with a result that is 6500k, Gamma 2.2 and a black level around 0.38.

Oh sweet, thanks.

So I shouldn't lose anything by not having the controls? It just makes it a bit 'easier' so to speak?

BananaDunka · 30 Aug 2011 at 14:27

Yeah having the controls enables fine tuning but with the right probe and software its not really needed. I have never needed to fine tune mine, for example.

Tephnos · 30 Aug 2011 at 20:35

mrk said:
Yeah having the controls enables fine tuning but with the right probe and software its not really needed. I have never needed to fine tune mine, for example.

Alright, sweet. Better buy one tomorrow then.

Now back to the good old question...

Glass or non glass, haha.

klaus · 30 Aug 2011 at 20:39

LC155 said:
Now back to the good old question...

Glass or non glass, haha.

I vote for non glass (after having tried them both, WA with glass, WD without).

Cheers - Klaus

N19h7m4r3 · 30 Aug 2011 at 22:16

LC155 said:
Alright, sweet. Better buy one tomorrow then.

Now back to the good old question...

Glass or non glass, haha.

Glass gets my vote.

Tephnos · 30 Aug 2011 at 23:33

klaus said:
I vote for non glass (after having tried them both, WA with glass, WD without).

Cheers - Klaus

Gotta admit, everyone who has tried both has gone with the non glass

Can I ask why you returned your A and went for the D? Why'd you get that version (over the C) with the extra expense?

N19h7m4r3 said:
Glass gets my vote.

Of course.

Weretree · 30 Aug 2011 at 23:41

If it helps, here's a picture of the non-glass in *really* bad conditions (windows both side, off, from the side, and over-exposed)

http://i.imgur.com/sgGAi.jpg

Certainly nowhere near that bad in actual use, but the glass won't help

klaus · 31 Aug 2011 at 00:03

LC155 said:
Gotta admit, everyone who has tried both has gone with the non glass

Can I ask why you returned your A and went for the D? Why'd you get that version (over the C) with the extra expense?

The backlight of the A-version stopped working after some months. As a warranty replacement, Hazro offered D-version, and I asked for the non-glass variant.

I don't use games, and as I combine office work (extra pixels very welcome) and nature photo hobby (more color adjustments, maybe better gradients), I preferred the A/D over the C.

Nonglass versions were not available when I bought the A version, so there was no option.

Cheers - Klaus

spleenharvester · 31 Aug 2011 at 01:00

LC155 said:
That you can tell the 1-255 squares apart from the background and themselves. Every one should be distinguishable.

When I had my C version I couldn't tell 1, 2 and 3 apart, making dark scenes very very dark. It sucked.

I can't tell 1-9 apart on my old Dell E173FPb lol. Want my X223HQb back.

msaunders · 31 Aug 2011 at 11:19

LC155 said:
Alright, sweet. Better buy one tomorrow then.

Now back to the good old question...

Glass or non glass, haha.

Its a tough decision to make . I went for glass. Still getting used to it but I went from from a matte finish screen to this so its like night and day . Even if I went for the non-glass I think I would still be noticing all the new reflections which your going to get no matter what version you go for .

In the evening/night time however , it is barely noticeable at all.

msaunders · 31 Aug 2011 at 12:18

Actually I just put my Dell Studio XPS laptop (glossy screen) open beside my WC Glass version and in terms of reflections its practically identical.

Tephnos · 31 Aug 2011 at 16:19

Well, I ordered one (decided on the non glass again

)

Man that delivery price makes me sick, £13-14ish.

Now let's hope I don't need a calibrator this time. (or end up with any other defects. It was so much easier with Dell "Hey this thing has a dead pixel" *get new monitor at door next day*)

N19h7m4r3 · 31 Aug 2011 at 17:33

Non-Glass?!

YOU FOOL! What have you done? Now you'll never know the pure sexiness of the glass covered monitor.

Tephnos · 31 Aug 2011 at 18:42

N19h7m4r3 said:
Non-Glass?!

YOU FOOL! What have you done? Now you'll never know the pure sexiness of the glass covered monitor.

Haha, it's mainly because people who buy the glass on here (for example, you) go on about how awesome it is. People who buy the non glass go on about how awesome it is.

People who have owned both (so far I remember 3 I think) have all said non glass was the best.

So, because returning is a lot more of a pain on here than Dell, I'll just go with the non glass.

I'll just canned air blow out the gap when I clean my stuff. (like how I blow my K750 keyboard with the air to clean the big dust off of it before I wipe it. Paranoia? Yes. But realistic when given crappy plastic shiny finishes). Nothing should go behind and into the actual panel as I'm sure that's impossible, so win.

N19h7m4r3 · 31 Aug 2011 at 18:52

Sure you can use compressed air to clean it, and then microfibre cloths and all that crap for the screen.

Or you can get glass, love it and think it's sexy then clean it normally because it's Glass.

MWahahaha!