HeadPhone Amp ?
- Thread starter humax
- Start date
Soldato
- Joined
- 14 Apr 2014
- Posts
- 7,396
- Location
- Hampshire
I think some of the recommendations are way over the top. Something like a Fiio E10K would be perfect for the DT770
Just seen comments about analogue inputs. What are your sources OP?
Just seen comments about analogue inputs. What are your sources OP?
Get a FiiO. I've owned a FiiO A3 E11K for a few years and it works really well. It's tiny, absolutely pocketsize and you can get one for £45 on amazon.
https://www.head-fi.org/showcase/fiio-kilimanjaro-2-e11k-portable-headphone-amplifier.20228/reviews
"So far I’ve noticed no heat build-up at all with the E11K. Even after a couple of hours (driving my HD600s), it’s still cool to touch. For output power the E11K uses the OPA1642 for preamp and the AD8397 as its power amplifier. Fiio rates the target headphone impedance as 16-150 ohm, and I think that maybe a lot of people see this and automatically assume this little unit can’t drive a headphone like the HD600 (300 ohm properly). But as I do the final edit of this review, I’m sitting with the X3ii feeding the E11K, then into my HD600’s. Volume on the pot is around 3/9 (low gain), and I’m getting a very comfortable 65-75 dB with minimal effort. This is my usual listening level so I’m pretty content. Taking the HD600 off my head, and cranking to maximum volume gives me 90 dB peaks. High gain would add another 15 dB to take that to 105 dB – more than you’d ever need. And at no stage do the HD600 feel under driven."
https://www.head-fi.org/showcase/fiio-kilimanjaro-2-e11k-portable-headphone-amplifier.20228/reviews
"So far I’ve noticed no heat build-up at all with the E11K. Even after a couple of hours (driving my HD600s), it’s still cool to touch. For output power the E11K uses the OPA1642 for preamp and the AD8397 as its power amplifier. Fiio rates the target headphone impedance as 16-150 ohm, and I think that maybe a lot of people see this and automatically assume this little unit can’t drive a headphone like the HD600 (300 ohm properly). But as I do the final edit of this review, I’m sitting with the X3ii feeding the E11K, then into my HD600’s. Volume on the pot is around 3/9 (low gain), and I’m getting a very comfortable 65-75 dB with minimal effort. This is my usual listening level so I’m pretty content. Taking the HD600 off my head, and cranking to maximum volume gives me 90 dB peaks. High gain would add another 15 dB to take that to 105 dB – more than you’d ever need. And at no stage do the HD600 feel under driven."
FiiO A3 is a good choice for an inexpensive headphone amp. It's portable, so you'd need to charge the battery, or possibly just leave it plugged into USB. You'd still need your E-DAC though, which is fine. It's just a headphone amp, unlike the E10K which is a DAC/amp. Only one input though, so you'd need to run another splitter cable in order to plug both E-DAC and input from the Humax box into the A3.
Perfectly workable option though.
Just had a look at the FiiO Q1. I'm not familiar with that as it's one of FiiO's newer products. Looking a bit closer; it is similar to the A3, but a DAC/amp. Looks like the amp puts out less power than the A3 though. While looking to see if this would be a suitable choice, I found a question on FiiO's forums from someone asking about using the DT770's with the Q1. A FiiO rep said the Q1 may not have enough for those headphones. As I said in a previous post though, FiiO are conservative when it comes to the output power of their headphone amps. Certainly a good thing and better than claims of being able to drive 600 Ohm headphones, when it can't; like we see from some gaming audio product manufacturers.
Read a review on head-fi of the Q1, from someone who does very good thorough reviews and he mentions that while using pair of Sennheiser HD600's, which he thought the Q1 did a commendable job with. If it can do fine with the HD600/650, it shouldn't have any trouble with the DT770.
The Q1 a better option than the A3 in my opinion, as it has 2 inputs; DAC via USB and 3.5mm analogue. Costs slightly more, but only about £10 extra.
So far then, we have; Creative G5, FiiO A3 or Q1 and FX-Audio X6. All are workable solutions. G5 is double or more the cost of the others, but I'm not certain it's £120 well spent if you have no use for the other features it has over the cheaper options. Technically, you'd be paying twice as much or more than one of the others that will do the same thing. G5 has a better DAC, but whether that will be noticeable and worth the extra is uncertain.
Perfectly workable option though.
Just had a look at the FiiO Q1. I'm not familiar with that as it's one of FiiO's newer products. Looking a bit closer; it is similar to the A3, but a DAC/amp. Looks like the amp puts out less power than the A3 though. While looking to see if this would be a suitable choice, I found a question on FiiO's forums from someone asking about using the DT770's with the Q1. A FiiO rep said the Q1 may not have enough for those headphones. As I said in a previous post though, FiiO are conservative when it comes to the output power of their headphone amps. Certainly a good thing and better than claims of being able to drive 600 Ohm headphones, when it can't; like we see from some gaming audio product manufacturers.
Read a review on head-fi of the Q1, from someone who does very good thorough reviews and he mentions that while using pair of Sennheiser HD600's, which he thought the Q1 did a commendable job with. If it can do fine with the HD600/650, it shouldn't have any trouble with the DT770.
The Q1 a better option than the A3 in my opinion, as it has 2 inputs; DAC via USB and 3.5mm analogue. Costs slightly more, but only about £10 extra.
So far then, we have; Creative G5, FiiO A3 or Q1 and FX-Audio X6. All are workable solutions. G5 is double or more the cost of the others, but I'm not certain it's £120 well spent if you have no use for the other features it has over the cheaper options. Technically, you'd be paying twice as much or more than one of the others that will do the same thing. G5 has a better DAC, but whether that will be noticeable and worth the extra is uncertain.
Thanks Marsman that was a long one
Okay off to look at some reviews on it. I see there is also a Mark 2 of this for about 30 quid more. But for now will just look at the reviews on the Q1Thanks Mate
.
Q1 MKII adds some refinements and features; Apple support and also DSD support. New looks that are more in keeping what Apple users might expect. We know Apple users love good looking products. 
Same guy on head-fi reviewed the MKII and said that if it came to a blind test, he probably wouldn't be able to tell between the Q1 and MKII. Not really worth the extra £30 over the Q1, unless you need the extra features.
Same guy on head-fi reviewed the MKII and said that if it came to a blind test, he probably wouldn't be able to tell between the Q1 and MKII. Not really worth the extra £30 over the Q1, unless you need the extra features.
Yes.
There are two ways to go about it.
1. Use a standard 2x RCA to 3.5mm.
Connect the RCA cable coming from the Humax to the L and R inputs on 'tape 1' and connect a standard 2x RCA to 3.5mm cable to the L and R outputs on 'tape 1'. 3.5mm end to the Q1. The amp will need to be on for the Q1 to receive audio from the Humax. When you don't want sound from the speakers, just turn down the volume. It won't affect the audio coming out that goes to the Q1 as it's a fixed level.
2. Use a stackable RCA to 3.5mm cable like the one I linked to in post #58.
Plug that cable into the L and R RCA connections of the input you want to use on the NAD amp, but let's say 'tuner'. Plug the cable coming from the Humax box into the sockets on the back of the stackable RCA cable. 3.5mm end to the Q1.
Using a stackable RCA cable, connects the cables coming from the Humax box and the Q1 before it gets to the NAD amp, meaning the Q1 can receive audio from the Humax box even when the NAD amp is off.
Doesn't really matter which way. Comes down to preference. One way means having the amp on with the volume turned down when you don't want sound through the speakers. The other way, you just turn the amp off when you don't want sound from speakers.
There are two ways to go about it.
1. Use a standard 2x RCA to 3.5mm.
Connect the RCA cable coming from the Humax to the L and R inputs on 'tape 1' and connect a standard 2x RCA to 3.5mm cable to the L and R outputs on 'tape 1'. 3.5mm end to the Q1. The amp will need to be on for the Q1 to receive audio from the Humax. When you don't want sound from the speakers, just turn down the volume. It won't affect the audio coming out that goes to the Q1 as it's a fixed level.
2. Use a stackable RCA to 3.5mm cable like the one I linked to in post #58.
Plug that cable into the L and R RCA connections of the input you want to use on the NAD amp, but let's say 'tuner'. Plug the cable coming from the Humax box into the sockets on the back of the stackable RCA cable. 3.5mm end to the Q1.
Using a stackable RCA cable, connects the cables coming from the Humax box and the Q1 before it gets to the NAD amp, meaning the Q1 can receive audio from the Humax box even when the NAD amp is off.
Doesn't really matter which way. Comes down to preference. One way means having the amp on with the volume turned down when you don't want sound through the speakers. The other way, you just turn the amp off when you don't want sound from speakers.
Associate
- Joined
- 21 Apr 2016
- Posts
- 1,967
- Location
- Oh Canada!
Purely OPAMP based amps sound like hollow garbage. Seriously bad. Pick up a Schiit modi/magni combo. $199 USD not sure what it is in the UK but there is a distributor. You can't beat them for the price. Just can't.
Thanks for that
.
No. Two RCA connectors one 3.5mm. Difference compared to a standard RCA to 3.5mm cable is that each RCA connector has a male plug and female socket, rather than just a male plug. Allows for another RCA to be connected to it.
Not true
depends a lot on the op amp and circuit. Some are pretty decent.The problem is a lot of consumer devices and even higher end ones use workhorse parts like the NE55xx and OPA213x that have decent numbers from an engineering perspective but are clinical and horrid to listen through and/or general purpose capacitors, buffers designed for non-audio use, etc. etc. and they sound meh - something made with a little more boutique parts can sound great.
So will the NAD Amp always have to be on for me to get sound from the PC and the Humax box.
.
.
Associate
- Joined
- 21 Apr 2016
- Posts
- 1,967
- Location
- Oh Canada!
Is this not just Willy Waving going on here
.
My willy whole heartedly agrees with me, sir.