Help me not get electrocuted.

Trigger said:
I'm not sure what you mean about two HDD lights though- does you case have two HDD lights or something?
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It does have two HDD lights, yeh.

Tried what you said and no weird noises or nothing - turned it on and it started up - but noticied that the CPU fan (TT Typhoon) wasn't spinning so turned it off immediately.

It jerked a bit but didn't properly spin. And I know it has been installed right. Something else to overcome.

-edit- Took the fan out of the CPU fan slot (4 pin) and it in a different fan slot (three pin) and it started spinning fine.

Seems quite noisy at start up then sort of gets quieter - don't know if that's it going into idle or powering down - have to hook a monitor up to it to find out.
 
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How many pins is on the heatsink fan connection? I'm guessing there is three which is why it wouldn't start up on the 4 pin connector but the motherboard may well shut itself off if there is no connection on the CPU Fan header :eek: Is there no converter that came with the mainboard to convert the 3 pin to a four pin?

EDIT: Ignore that, i've just re-read the manual. It should be able to work fine in the four pin connector. DId you have the black wire at the top followed by the red wire?
 
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The CPU fan is a 3 pin - there might have been a connector but to be honest, it works out better this way.

The CPU fan is plugged into a 3 pin just to the left of the RAM slots and the original CPU fan slot is now being used by an Akasa fan at the back, which is 3 pin and works fine in the 4 pin slot. Is it bad/unhealthy to have a 3 pin running in a 4 pin slot? It was my understanding that the slot was made for both 3 pin and 4 pin?

Everything seems to be booting up fine in terms of looks and sound - obviously hooking it up to a monitor will be the final test. But I'm quietly confident that it's all sorted bar the HDD leds.

edit - the cpu fan was connected the right way round - not sure why it didn't work.
 
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Right, really the CPU Fan should be in the four pin slot and the Akasa should be in the PWR Fan slot near the RAM as the BIOS should slow down and speed up the CPU fan when needed I think :) As long as the CPU fan will work in the 4 pin slot put it in there- if not it will have to stay where it is.

From what I can see in the manual, you can only have one of the HDD lights plugged in. If you look at the case the same way as before but this time look at the block of connectors 2 pins high by 10 wide (Well there's only 8 pins across but space for 10) in the bottom right corner, the HDD light connector goes on the bottom row, far left. Positive to the left, negative on the right :)
 
The Akasa fan delays a few seconds then switches on - perhaps if I was to put the CPU fan in there and give it a few seconds it might twig on and start spinning?

I understand that running a CPU without a fan isn't the brightest of ideas, but it will be safe enough from cold I imagine?

It probably will - but I'd just want some confirmation as I haven't got another couple of hundred quid to pump into a Conroe. :D

Thanks for all your help so far, by the way - very much appreciated.
 
No probs mate :)

It's a tricky one- I don't own a DS4 board though so I can't comment on whether it is supposed to delay or not. For now, I would leave it where it is and monitor the temperatures in BIOS for a bit to see what they're doing. Most motherboards these days will shut the system off if the CPU temps get too high though so it's your choice :)
 
I tried it there for a few seconds - system is not liking the fan in the cpu slot for some reason - not to worry. I'm not too bothered about sound so if the CPU fan is spinning constant (on high, I presume) then it doesn't really mean that much to me.

In regards to the two four pin connectors you advised me on where to place in the mobo - It turns out I had them in the same place, only in the 3rd last pin set, as opposed to the first pin set that I went for this time.

The crackling nosie is still happening now and again, but is totally depenant on where the plug sits in the wall - I think that socket might be the culprit after all.

I'll be clearing up the room, then I'll put an additional monitor on the desk and run the computer from it - and let you know how I got on.

Hopefully things go well.
 
If the wallsocket is making a funny noise I strongly recommend you get it seen to ASAP*.

One of my sockets used to make a funny noise, and one night (after i'd finally narrowed it down to definately the socket), I turned the power off and inspected it only to find one of the connections was loose and arcing :eek:

I cut away about an inch of the cable that was damaged by the arcing and replaced the socket and it's not been a problem since - I suspect if it had been left it could have been nasty.


*Either contact your landlord (if rented), or an electrician if you can find one (it's not hard to check and replace a socket if you've done electrics in the past but I won't recommend it to someone I know nothing about;)).
 
Yes it does sounds like it's arcing- you can tell quite easily by isolating the power and lifting the face plate forwards- if there is a lot of black dust in the backbox you need to get it sorted :)
 
Will take that on board. The plug used to work selectively and for a good long while it has been working now. First time I've ever experienced that on it.

In regards to the computer - things are as they were. But there are two unknown devices that I can't seem to get rid of. I'll post them in here later if someone is daring enough to look into them - but they can't be found on the mobo cd or graphics card cd.

One of them is sound related I think - because it stops me from playing COD, even though I was just looking to see what it looked like (don't have any speakers hooked up as of yet)
 
Have you run windows update yet? When you do, try the custom option to see if there are any drivers to download :)

If that's been happening to the socket for a while then I suggest you get it looked at ASAP as it could be a fire hazard :eek:
 
I had this fizzing/crackling/arcing sound from an enermax psu. Different cables were tried, but it was the psu. It would make the noise for about 30 seconds when supplied with power, after that it went silent. It worked for about 6 months powering a dfi/4800+x2, but blew up eventually. RMA'd.

Richie.
 
ramdor said:
I had this fizzing/crackling/arcing sound from an enermax psu. Different cables were tried, but it was the psu. It would make the noise for about 30 seconds when supplied with power, after that it went silent. It worked for about 6 months powering a dfi/4800+x2, but blew up eventually. RMA'd.

Richie.
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I've tried the plug in my room and there hasn't been a problem with it yet - sometimes the plug in the other room would crackle then it would be alright.

As I've built a massive number of computers (one, this one) I thought I had messed some wiring up within the system - but it must just be that plug.
 
Trigger said:
Did you install the PCI drivers of the motherboard disk?
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I installed everything on the mobo disc - I even let Windows have a look through the mobo disc to pick up anything I may have missed and it found nothing.

SM Bus I have no idea about either.
 
So I have to download a driver for the chipset?

What Chipset is the Conroe (E6600) - I downloaded Intel's facility to check what it was, but it didn't pick up any information at all.

-edit-

Seems the Intel program did do the trig, after two restarts.

Just the PCI thing to sort out now.

Just as a general question - how important are chipset drivers to performance?
 
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Just as a side note, when the term chipset is used on its own, it is referring to the northbridge controller on the motherboard and not the CPU :D

I'll have to have a dig around for the solution to the PCI problem for you :)
 
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