High water temperature O11D Evo Reflection 2 Distro

0121danwilliams84

0121danwilliams84

0121danwilliams84

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I have an O11D Evo Reflection 2 Distro with 2 360 radiators top and bottom with Corsair ML120 fans. Radiators all outtake seems to cool best with 3 side fans intaking and rear outtake. Cooling an RTX 4090 and Ryzen 7900x. All EK blocks.

I run the fans at 50% rpm and the D5 pump at 65%. That fan speed is the highest I can tolerate and I get 130l/hr flow and about 200 at 100% pump speed. Not much temp difference above certain pump speed.

The room temp is around 23c currently and the water temp always idles about +8c over ambient.

Under load the water temp currently gets to about 45c. Gets up to 40 within about 10 mins and creeps up slowly to settle there.

My GPU temps are the main worry getting to around 65c max at stock. Around 20c over water, which I have heard is fairly standard. The water temp just isn’t helping though. The hotspot temp is about +8 over core at idle and +15 load. Not great not terrible.

I can only get a few C cooler maxing the fans but that’s not tolerable.

I don’t think I want to try reseating the GPU. Anything else I could possibly try to lower the water temps other than AC?

Thanks.
 
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D1craig said:
Nothing much you can do mate. You have the most power hungry gpu that has ever existed so 65c is pretty good. All changes you can possibly make will make at most 5c difference in temps. You do have choices but they won't make you any happier. More rad space, more fans (push/pull), faster fans (obviously = more sound).

Maybe get rid of the single exhaust fan and try allow more air to pass through the radiators.
Possibly have the bottom radiator in taking air.

You could try liquid metal TIM on the gpu which will probably be the biggest benefit you see. If you do go with that make sure you research it first.
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Thanks for the feedback. I haven't tried removing the rear exhaust fan yet, but tried pretty much all other fan orientations. Intake on the bottom radiator didn't get better temps, with both rads intake or top rad exhaust. I do think a GPU reseat and re-paste would help, but not sure I am ready for the trauma of all that! :cry:
 
Mcnumpty2323 said:
Seems a bit hot
Though I only have a 5950x
And a 2080ti
So kind of hard to compare as not as power hungry as your stuff
But few hours gaming yesterday
Max coolant temperature was 33c on mine
43c on gpu
Mid 50s on cpu
You're 45c coolant when it's not even summer yet seems high
Especially if you're using petg tubes
Though I did manage to squeeze in a 44mm
And a 58mm rad in push/pull in my 011d xl
Guessing you might be using 2 x 44mm?
Or maybe even a 30mm and a 44mm?
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I think the 2080ti can still put out 350W and the 5950X pushes 100W+ in games.

I have two EKWB Surface P360 44mm rads, top and bottom.

Yeah, I think the water temps is the cause of most of the problems. Not sure if a bad GPU/CPU mount can push up water temp though, if that was the case.

I get pretty decent flow according to the flow meter, so flow shouldn't be an issue.

It's kind of puzzling really why the water temp goes so high. I start at the temps you have under load.
 
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Jay85 said:
Be interesting to see what your wattage is on your 4090?
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Hi Jay, this is just at stock 450W in a heavy load game like f1 2022 or Hogwarts Legacy or Superposition (The game option of that benchmark keeps it pegged at 450W most of the time, so was good for testing.)

Running at 4K on a 144hz screen.
 
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Parsley said:
I think it's enough and his water temperatures aren't dangerous. The 7900x isn't fantastic power wise, but it's certainly not the worst, pulling about 195watts under a full load like cinebench if I remember it right. It'll be absolutely fine when gaming.

One quick question Dan, since you're focussed on negative pressure, are your intake fans covered by a fine mesh? If those fans are restricted too much it won't be helping your temperatures at all, and I saw not insignificant results when I was just playing around with my Lian Li Lancool 3 and removing the fine mesh filter on the front of it. I just use the metal ventilated front panel now and give the computer a clean a little more often, keeps things quieter.
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I have a 360mm fan filter on the side fans. Will give that a go too. Anything simple I can do to avoid taking the loop apart!
 
Mcnumpty2323 said:
.its possible remounting the gpu might
Lower its temps a bit
But can't see how a bad gpu mount would increase
Coolant temperature
If anything I would expect the opposite
Since better mount would mean more heat transfer to coolant?
Would still assume airflow or amount of radiator might be the culprit
Guess if you remove all the filters
And side panel too just to see what happens
Would be what I would try before remounting the gpu
Since its easier anyway
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No filters on there now as per Parsleys suggestion. Only had one filter on there anyway.

That's what I was thinking that the GPU mount wouldn't increase coolant temp.

I can keep it under 40C with fans at 100% 2,400rpm, but that's crazy.

I start out with water temps in the low 30s to start with so, it just goes up from an already high level which is the most confusing thing.

I am guessing the case with glass panels and distro just retains the heat really well.
 
Parsley said:
If it's of any help, my fan set up is

3x140 on the front as intake, 2 of these are on a 280mm rad.
3x120 intake on the bottom 360 rad. They intake through the basement of the case, you'd have to look at the case to get a better idea.
3x120 exhaust on the top 360 rad.
1x140 exhaust on the rear of the chassis.

I don't run push pull as I don't have the space!

I've set it up so it runs at a slightly positive pressure in terms of the fan speeds.

The rear fan as exhaust is mostly to ensure a bit more airflow when the system is idle and the fans are barely spinning.

Another thing to consider is what is the location of your temperature sensor? It averages out over the loop, so it doesn't really matter, but when I had a sensor before the GPU + CPU, and then another one after, the delta between the two was around 4 degrees. Going through all of the radiators does cause a temperature drop across the loop, especially if running at a low pump speed with only one pump (in series). I only mention it as it may alter your perception of your loop temperature slightly.
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The temp sensor is an aquacomputer next flow and is located right on the Distro with flow coming from the CPU that last visited the GPU from what I can tell. I did think about that slight temp difference across the loop. 4C would be a fairly good saving.
 
SirConfused said:
As numpty said, there's absdolutely 0 chance that remounting the GPU will cause loop temps to go down, that's all about how much heat you're effectively transferring from one medium to another in a given time.

It seems to me like there are 2 potential factors, possibly in combination: something weird is happening with airflow in the case that's starving the rads of cool air, or the rads just don't have the capacity to get rid of as much energy as you want them to (or a combination of both).

Have you tried both rads as intake with the side and rear as exhaust? Or your current setup with the rear as intake as well?

I would think that both rads as intake with no filters would be your absolute best case scenario, you could even take the side panel off to see what your lowest achievable temp delta is and then work from there.
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Have tried all sorts of orientations and both intake actually gave worse temps. I think it’s a probably a perfect storm of problems.
 


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Sorry, don't have a good up to date picture and need to move the PC to get at it! The build is the same as in the top pic but with the GPU in the loop as below image and with all rad fans outtake. Also, the screen is now a 120mm outtake fan. I had a lot of fun turning the bottom ones to outtake without removing the GPU!
 
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Gavster said:
I find my 4090 runs a lot cooler than my 3080ti did, my loop temps are around 33 degrees when gaming and my GPU temps are around the high forties/ low fifties so your temps are quite a bit higher than mine and I have a 280mm rad and a 360mm rad so my cooling area is less than yours too.
Have you tried top, bottom and rear fans as intake and side fans exhaust? This might help encourage air flow where rear and side fans both set to exhaust are working against each other.

[edit] just seen you don`t have a fan on the rear so forget that.
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Yeah, I have tried all sorts of combos including that and nothing makes it better, only worse. Best temps are both rads outtake and 3 intake at the side. I just left the back fan outtake for the moment. Out of interest what is your hotspot delta like under load?
 
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Gavster said:
I`ll get back to you on that tonight as I can`t remember off the top of my head. I`ll run a couple of runs of Timespy to get it nice and warm then look at the temps, last time I looked they were pretty good.
On another note I`ll be installing my new AM5 mobo and 7800X3D tonight once I`ve done that :D
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Nice work! make sure you update that AM5 bios ;). Beautiful chip.
 
Gavster said:
I've already done the bios with q flash+ ;) and I've just drained the system ready for the transplant :D
I've just run timespy extreme 4k three times and my temps are gpu temp 65 degrees, memory junction temp 48 degrees and the hotspot temp was 80 degrees.
My coolant temp was 30 degrees.
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Wow that’s quite a temp delta between water and gpu load. Sounds pretty much the same as my temps but with apparent 45c water.
 
Just a little update. My room temp today was 23c and I haven’t used the PC in a week and it has been turned off. The temp sensor stays on via USB when the pc is shutdown and currently reads around 40c. That seems like such a massive difference between room and water temp when not even in use.
 
D1craig said:
Maybe try some larger feet on your case. That bottom rads fans should be set to intake regardless of anything else in your setup, that is easily the best way to have cool air going over that rad and into your system. The side fans could be a hinderence. I would also make the top rad exhaust so the air goes straight from the outside of the case over 2 rads and then out. If you are worried about extra heat on motherboard vrms etc then maybe make the rear fan an intake or exhaust. I'm no aerodynamics expert but them side fans could cause any cool air to not hit the top rad reducing its effectiveness.

Have you got the loop running through the blocks in the correct direction? Cpu block will have an in and out port and so do many gpu blocks they might add/remove a good 2 to 4 degrees each if not oriented correctly. I've never used a flow metre but I have to ask does that have a correct flow direction?

I did have that case but with a lot less demanding components and tbh I wasn't overly impressed with the cooling performance of it. It was great to work inside of.

I've noticed before an air bubble around my pump and that led to higher loop temps very quickly.

I think the rule was one fan slot of rad space (120mm) per 100 Watts of cooling needed.
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Apologies for the late response to your detailed message!

Pretty sure the loop order is correct as it doesn’t really look right any other way and I copied a build pretty much exactly on the EK website.

The flow meter apparently works in both orientations but I believe is going left to right. With a longer run before hitting the meter itself.

Have tried quite hard to completely get rid of any possible bubbles.

Is quite confusing, but I guess it is a sum of multiple possible issues leading to poor performance.
 
LuckyBenski said:
Sunlight is a good shout - maybe the sensor itself is black and in sunlight?

Water won't flow without a pump so even with sunlight I wouldn't expect the water temp to go up much.
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Thanks for the thoughts. PC is in a fairly small warm room at 23c currently but it is in complete shade. The sensor is black yes. Such strangeness. When the pump starts from PC off the water temp goes quickly to about 30c idling. Maybe it just isn’t accurate. It’s an Aquacomputer next flow which are meant to be pretty good. I don’t know ‍♀️
 
Thanks for the different perspectives and examples. Perhaps my temp sensor is not completely accurate and I may do some further testing on that. I have been working on reseating my GPU and refreshing the coolant, so will see if that makes any difference as well!
 
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