High Water Temperatures + High CPU/GPU Temp after heavy gaming?

Im using low fin rads too and i find i need a lot of them to get a decent amount of heat removal if i wanna keep the fans running slow, im actually using 2x240s a 360 and a 480 and if i just leave my fans at 800rpm my loop will eventually get too warm. I would suggest switching your fan speed control to you GPU temps as theyre much closer to the loop temp and more stable than the CPU, this will stop them speeding up for now reason when you CPU is under load for short amounts of time.

Install speedfan theres loads of guides to help ya set it up on youtube, and set up a fancurve for your GPUs, i would set it up to keep your GPUs below 50, this will keep your loop around 40 and stop your CPU overheating.
 
I wouldn't bother with speedfan as it's ancient and buggy. There's no need to link to GPU temperature because if the cards heat up then the CPU will follow suit.

The Asus mobo fan control is more than adequate.
 
Works for me bud, wouldn't have suggested it otherwise :) Speedfan allows you to set max temps for cpu and gpus so no matter what tasks your doing it keeps things cool, I don't have Asus suite so I couldn't say what control that gives you.
 
String said:
I wouldn't bother with speedfan as it's ancient and buggy. There's no need to link to GPU temperature because if the cards heat up then the CPU will follow suit.
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Buggy? Sometimes but once set up right it usually just works.

Ancient? Hardly, the original program has been out years, but its often updated to include latest Mainboard chipsets changes made, issues found and reported etc.


Yes it takes some effort to set up, but I think for most users it will be worth it.

Problem with the Asus Suite off top of my head its only mainboard or CPU temp related.



I'm still rather confused, so we have like 5 fans blowing in and 1 extracting?
I have heard of positive pressure sure, but that's a massive restriction of actually air flow, you can have all the potential Pressure in the world but if friction prevents it leaving quickly and smoothly your actually getting low air movement/air flow.
To make that work that exhaust fan would having to be running flat out and all the other fans on absolute minimum.
All that time that hot air is in your case it is transferring heat to the components it is passing, rather than pulling heat from them.

Any changes to the PSU will make minimal difference as that is down at the bottom of the case with a large GPU in the way blocking airflow.

I have really terrible written that but I hope I have kind of explained my thinking.
 
when gaming my computer gets to these:

CPU: 60C on all cores
GPU's: 55-60c each

I run a 6700k @ 4.5Ghz
and 2x 290x with good level overclocks.

All on a MONSTA 480 Rad.

Your temps are too high. I think you need thicker radiators. as mine gets blooming warm
 
I'm in agreement with the majority here, you've got the airflow all wrong. Adding a PSU is only going to put more warm air in, you need to draw in the air from the front and exhaust it at the top. Right now you've got fans that are not designed for SP and poor airflow which is no doubt rendering the inside of the case super hot.

Try running it with the window panel off, see if it makes a difference and then just flip the top fans over - you should avoid drawing air in from the top anyway its going against the hot air rising and also probably filling your stuff with dust.
 
Example about the airflow thing:

I have a Phanteks Enthoo Primo with a 480 rad in the top (exhaust) and a 240 in the bottom (intake). There's also two 140mm intake fans at the front. I run my fans at fairly low RPM, around 700-800. When I'm gaming, simply removing the dust filter on top of the case can reduce my coolant temperatures by around 5 degrees.

This is why I'm confident having all radiators as intake is a bad idea.
 
tyler_jrb said:
One thing I can't recommend enough for fans/pumps is this:
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/aqua-computer-aquaero-5-lt-usb-fan-controller-wc-011-aq.html

Cheap and does exactly what is needed. Control all my fans perfectly via GPU temp. Or CPU/coolant temp if required. One thing I find with mobo/bios software is it's not accurate enough for my liking.

I hated CPU temp control too, because of how fast it fluctuates.
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Does this kit come with temperature probes? I only ask because i'd love to use GPU temp to control my chassis fans, but the Asus software only let's me see the motherboard.
 
Bantu said:
Does this kit come with temperature probes? I only ask because i'd love to use GPU temp to control my chassis fans, but the Asus software only let's me see the motherboard.
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Yes it comes with four temperature sensors (700mm long)

Plus you can create system and virtual sensors in the software to control which ever fans you desire and using any temperature device i.e GPU, CPU, Even HDD if you really wanted.

IF you decide to go with any aquaero, Here is a basic guide that will really help you when it comes to first time set up. http://www.pcmforums.co.uk/showthread.php?3393-NAMS-NEW-BASIC-GUIDE-to-the-AQUAERO-5

Bone9 said:
You can do that with speedfan for free. That's how mine is setup. Gpu temp adjusts my fans.
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I know but perfect for me to control 12 fans with a single pwm header. Fans are adjusted instantly upon startup i.e -they don't revert to full speed (entire system startup) until receiving a signal.
 
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VKleita said:
Buggy? Sometimes but once set up right it usually just works.
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It doesn't work with some motherboards, and when running a stress test it can stop controlling the fans, which kind of defeats the purpose. So yes, buggy.

I'm not talking about AI Suite, I'm talking about the ASUS BIOS. That's why I mentioned pressing F6.
 
tyler_jrb said:
I know but perfect for me to control 12 fans with a single pwm header. Fans are adjusted instantly upon startup i.e -they don't revert to full speed (entire system startup) until receiving a signal.
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Thats nice if your restarting your PC a lot Speedfan doesnt kick in until the program loads so all the fans go back to bios speeds for a few seconds which would be annoying if ya using high speed fans.
 
Bone9 said:
How did you get on at the weekend mate?
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My new PSU hasn't arrived yet, it's delayed :( So I didn't do anything of the work as i'd only have to drag it all out again when the PSU gets here.

Supposed to get the PSU this week, so hopefully will sort it all out this weekend!

I'm going to flip the top rad fans to be exhausts... the only thing I'm worried about is I don't want negative pressure inside my case as that'll start sucking in dust from all the cracks and it won't look nice :/

so i'm umming and aahing about how to setup my fans still at the moment, I only have 3x intake fans at the front... and if I swap my top fans i'll have 7 fans running as exhaust (3 of those are doubled up in a push/pull setup so not sure how much pressure that will create... but effectively I have 4-7 fans worth going out.)
 
Drazek said:
My new PSU hasn't arrived yet, it's delayed :( So I didn't do anything of the work as i'd only have to drag it all out again when the PSU gets here.

Supposed to get the PSU this week, so hopefully will sort it all out this weekend!

I'm going to flip the top rad fans to be exhausts... the only thing I'm worried about is I don't want negative pressure inside my case as that'll start sucking in dust from all the cracks and it won't look nice :/

so i'm umming and aahing about how to setup my fans still at the moment, I only have 3x intake fans at the front... and if I swap my top fans i'll have 7 fans running as exhaust (3 of those are doubled up in a push/pull setup so not sure how much pressure that will create... but effectively I have 4-7 fans worth going out.)
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Slight negative pressure isn't going to suck loads more dust in. You still have to get a can of compressed air and a vacuum cleaner every few months if you want the system to look in top shape, no matter what air pressure is inside the chassis. Besides, if you flip the rear exhaust around and have it draw cool air in (as well as attach a rear dust filter) you'll have almost equal pressure coming in as going out. And if you fix your temperatures you can turn the front and rear intakes up to, say, 900 RPM and turn the top exhausts down to 700 RPM. This might help create theoretical equal pressure. The additional 'stacked' fans on the top should only really add additional static pressure and might not push that much more air out the top as opposed to a single layer of fans exhausting air out.
 
You have gotten loads of great responses so not really much I can add but just a couple of points I figure are worth repeating/adding:

Your rads/fans are not going to be an issue (assuming the fans aren't running too low to do anything), I have cooled a lot more with a lot less. Have you tried running all the fans at max to see if this solves it? as that would be a great indicator of whether the issue was getting the heat from the components to the rads or off the rads.

I saw mention of intake/exhaust imbalance due to the 6 fans on the top rad but for purposes of airflow that's only 3 fans (fans in series increases pressure to overcome restrictions to airflow, they don't actually increase airflow more than one fan provides, similar to pumps), I personally would run the top fans as an exhaust rather than intake (I would also run the rear fan as intake but this is personal preference).

Personally, looking at that setup and your issue, I would bet on a flow issue caused either by a partial blockage, or simply by the loop being beyond the remit of a single D5 (D5's provide great flow but they are lacking in head pressure compared to say a DDC). I have had a similar issue in the past that was solved by an extra D5 in series.
 
Here is my 2 cents....

I have the same case but only 1 gpu and no motherboard block.
1 x 360 rad top
1 x 280 rad front
3 X 140 intake front
3 x 120 exhaust top
1 x 140 exhaust rear

After gaming for a few hours..
At 30c ambient- summer
My 5820k(no overclock) = 55c max
Gtx 1080 = 50c max
water temp = around 40c

If i was you i would first take the cpu overclock off completely to see what improvement that made to temps. Your cpu temp spikes are your overclock, i had the same when i overclocked mine.

Do you game with the case door closed? This will decrease airflow significantly, i always leave mine open when gaming.

Also had a problem with water flow. I have a flow meter so i saw the issue, wouldn't have noticed it otherwise. After a few weeks when the air had worked it way out and the water level in the res didn't drop further i filled it back up to the top but i noticed the flow meter spinning slower than it did when i first built the loop, i'm pretty sure topping it off caused the issue. I now leave it a little lower than full and its been fine since.

This is my experience anyway hope it helps
 
ubersonic said:
Personally, looking at that setup and your issue, I would bet on a flow issue caused either by a partial blockage, or simply by the loop being beyond the remit of a single D5 (D5's provide great flow but they are lacking in head pressure compared to say a DDC). I have had a similar issue in the past that was solved by an extra D5 in series.
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I would second this - Blackice GTS rads are very restrictive (although very good performance wise). Plus a cpu block, a second rad, 2 x GPU blocks and mb. That's quite an ask for one D5... I would look at flow also.

I have tested my system with the top rad intake vs exhaust and the differences are minimal 1-2 degrees at best. I use GTS rads, 1 x 240 and 1 x 360 both push only with gt-ap15's.
 
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