House Radiator Cooling

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150W CPU usage is a little understated my thoughts for this was cooling a dedicated folding rig with an i7 920@ 4ghz which produces 285W and a GTX295 as these produce the highest PPD producing 289W of heat so your looking at closer to 600W heat load at least.

Water colour would be no big deal as this would be functional rather than aestheic
 
O_O 4.0ghz really use 285w omg. lol well, a cooling maxtrix out of a car is a lot better than any watercooling fan you would buy. you can see how tightly the fins are... and it would easly support 600w heat anyways :)
 
electrical watts and heat output watts are not the same.
heatcore are old school - they work, but you need high pressure noisey fans.
PA / RX / feser rads are so much better (but more expensive)

and the brown muck is not what you want in your blocks
 
Not sure there's that big a difference between electrical and heat wattage with a processor, I'd expect well over 90% of the energy input to be lost as heat. I think the above 285W includes the motherboard and ram, possibly other things too. I'm working to roughly 200W for a 4ghz 920 under load, but can't seem to find a source for it.

A heatercore sitting in an outdoors swimming pool is what I think I want.
 
There is a calculator floating around that will calculate TDP for your processor but I cant seem to find it.

Would you have issues with your system freezing up in winter JonJ or would you be running anti-freeze or something similar?
 
If I had a heatercore sat in a swimming pool? I'd need to get a house with a garden and dig a damned great hole first unfortunately. But no, there wouldn't be any problems with it freezing. The water in the bottom of a pool will tend to sit at 4 degrees even when the top has frozen over, water under pressure is reluctant to freeze as it expands when cooled below 4 degrees. The ice on the top is a pretty good insulator too.
 
I forgot to factor in that i would be sat submersed, how would say a waterbutt fair at cooling a heatcore compare to a large swimming pool

I cant see it making a large difference but costing a hell of a lot less
 
I don't think there'd be much in it either to be honest. A water butt is more likely to freeze solid I suppose, but the heat capacity of either is sufficiently ludicrous that a 300W heat load from a computer just wouldn't matter. Even running 24/7 I can't see it mattering.

A 200 litre water butt costs £35 and looks to be a fairly normal size. To increase the temperature of the water by ten centigrade with a heat input of 300W would take eight hours. I don't know how to estimate heat loss to surroundings, but I suspect it can keep up with a rate of about a degree per hour. I think I need to get a ground floor flat and a water butt (kept in the shade). Silent cooling for £35 is ridiculously good value.
 
Frozen pipe would be a bad thing, but the idea was refined while asleep.

Set up waterbutt in "normal" fashion, i.e. rain that drains off the roof ends up in the butt. Drill two 3/4" holes in the lid and one in the side near the top. Feed some 1/2" garden hose into the one on the side, run the other end to a drain, leave the free end floating about halfway down the butt. Maybe with a crude filter attached. Run a rather longer 1/2" piece of garden tubing from the computer to the butt, through one of the holes in the lid, then coil it around the inside, preferably to at least half the height of the butt, then out the last hole and back to the computer.

Pump deionied/glycol mix down the hose from the computer. May work better if two or three hoses are run in parallel and all coiled in the butt to decrease the pressure the pump has to work against. Relies on conduction through the considerable area of hose that's in the butt. Would work better if copper pipe was used, but then the cost would go up and the water would be toxic to plants. If antifreeze isn't sufficient to avoid fear of damaged pipes, run a pump 24/7 somewhere along the line.

I'll get a ground floor flat next year and try this. Cheaper than a swimming pool.
 
Why not use a submerged pond pump - lots of head and you can fit standard watercooling tube directly to it.
Or better still use underfloor heating hose instead of garden hose (cheaper and more thermally efficient)
It's 'back the the old school' but should work - summer days may cause you problems.

Still think a second hand PA120.3 run passive like I do is a lot less hassle and expense.
but might be worth it for highend gpu/i7 pc's
 
The main advantage to the coil of tubing is in isolating the two liquids, I'm reluctant to pump rainwater through waterblocks and also reluctant to fill a sealed butt with antifreeze as it seems a shame to miss out on evaporative cooling and cold rainwater running into it, plus the missus would water plants with it. Either approach is viable though, pump in the butt has the benefit of it being thoroughly vibration damped.

The only reason I didn't suggest underfloor heating tubing is that I didn't know it existed. If it tolerates immersion in water, can't imagine why it wouldn't, then that's a better idea. Not quite as good as actually running it under the floorboards though.
 
This is certainly getting intersting from something I considered a possibly silly idea being refined into something very do-able and cheap.

Looks like some experimenting may have to be done in the future when I have the money to play with, until then I shall wait and see what you guys coem up with
 
I think it'll work fairly well. Back of the envelope, but for 11/8mm PVC tubing (which just happens to be the size I use), you'd need 20m immersed in the butt to get rid of 300W with a 5 centigrade temperature gradient. 300W is about right for the watercooling part of my computer, so I think 20m of tubing in the butt will lead to loop temperatures 5 degrees over the temperature of the water in the butt. 5 degrees is a good air-water delta for convective radiators. 15m of tubing would do if using 10/8mm tubing.

The butt is 0.5m across, so a circle of pipe within this is about 1.5m long. Something like 15 loops of it in the butt, would occupy about 1/5th of the available height. So the tubing would fit comfortably as well.

I've suggested the idea to the missus. She's not keen, thinks running tubes from the house into a large tub of water is a bad idea as I might drill holes in the wall while she isn't looking. Otherwise I think the plan is a sound one.
 
JonJ678 said:
The main advantage to the coil of tubing is in isolating the two liquids, I'm reluctant to pump rainwater through waterblocks and also reluctant to fill a sealed butt with antifreeze as it seems a shame to miss out on evaporative cooling and cold rainwater running into it, plus the missus would water plants with it. Either approach is viable though, pump in the butt has the benefit of it being thoroughly vibration damped.

The only reason I didn't suggest underfloor heating tubing is that I didn't know it existed. If it tolerates immersion in water, can't imagine why it wouldn't, then that's a better idea. Not quite as good as actually running it under the floorboards though.
Click to expand...

Could you use a central heating water pump ?
 
The main problem with CHP's is even on the low setting they push quite hard and could cause the pipes in your PC to come off unless you're really confident with it.
Unless there's a lot of tight turns or restrictions, a 'reasonable' aquarium pump should be up to the task.
 
JonJ678 said:
I think it'll work fairly well. Back of the envelope, but for 11/8mm PVC tubing (which just happens to be the size I use), you'd need 20m immersed in the butt to get rid of 300W with a 5 centigrade temperature gradient. 300W is about right for the watercooling part of my computer, so I think 20m of tubing in the butt will lead to loop temperatures 5 degrees over the temperature of the water in the butt. 5 degrees is a good air-water delta for convective radiators. 15m of tubing would do if using 10/8mm tubing.

The butt is 0.5m across, so a circle of pipe within this is about 1.5m long. Something like 15 loops of it in the butt, would occupy about 1/5th of the available height. So the tubing would fit comfortably as well.

I've suggested the idea to the missus. She's not keen, thinks running tubes from the house into a large tub of water is a bad idea as I might drill holes in the wall while she isn't looking. Otherwise I think the plan is a sound one.
Click to expand...

I have wanted to drill holes in the floor boards here and run a rad box in the basement which is always cool... misses won't let me :(
 
weird_dave said:
The main problem with CHP's is even on the low setting they push quite hard and could cause the pipes in your PC to come off unless you're really confident with it.
Unless there's a lot of tight turns or restrictions, a 'reasonable' aquarium pump should be up to the task.
Click to expand...

you could use a bulkhead for the pipes like we do when we install water turbines. and i guess an aquarium pump would be good to and the ones i have lying around are
used submerged.
 
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