How many bubbles...
- Thread starter miniyazz
- Start date
That is decidedly cunning
any idea how long it needs to be left equilibrating?I thought I was.. how long can it be left in a half-full (once-opened) but sealed container?
Are you saying that deionised water should not have a significant quantity of dissolved gases? 'cause I've just acquired some more and if so, I'll just drain the loop and use that instead.
Tried both deionised with a silver insert to stop forests growing, but got bored and went back to green dyed stuff, much more fun and I can see it when it spills.But its non-conductive supposedly.
Supposedly, all fluids start becoming significantly conductive within a few days of being in your loop because ions from the components become dissolved in it
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It is genius - poor man's vacuum (and not of the cleaning variety ). I don't think there's a time 'limit' as such and providing the container and pipework is sufficiently sturdy it's difficult to go too far. Make sure you get the arrangement right though so that mavity helps - you want the water to flow past the junction, not into it (otherwise you'll put the bubbles back).
). I don't think there's a time 'limit' as such and providing the container and pipework is sufficiently sturdy it's difficult to go too far. Make sure you get the arrangement right though so that mavity helps - you want the water to flow past the junction, not into it (otherwise you'll put the bubbles back).
Soldato
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I use a sealed loop with a res in line.
bleed the loop as you would with the bubble in the res.
after 24h, fill res to max with separate fill line and seal with plug.
Best of both worlds.
bleed the loop as you would with the bubble in the res.
after 24h, fill res to max with separate fill line and seal with plug.
Best of both worlds.
Soldato
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never really had a problem with bubbles after the first few minutes and that's with T-lines. The trick is to keep the flowrate down until bled.
Better to do it in the bottle it came in, maybe in the microwave. But you know I can't really see the point of all this, everyone has loops that start off cold and then warm up. Just get a small res to stick in the case somewhere unobtrusive, jobs a goodun. I never have trouble with bubbles after a day or so.
Soldato
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Tempted by the 'inline res' idea - I don't want a regular res because I move my computer flat-upright way too often so I'd probably create bubbles each time I did that. But with 3+ graphics cards and 7+ HDDs floating around, I really have next to no room for a res at all. Decisions, decisions. Can't do anything at the moment anyway though as my motherboard appears to have died a little and I'm debating whether to sell the RMA replacement and plump for the seemingly promising X58A-UD3R as, tbh, it seems to fulfill all my criteria!
Soldato
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Its a good board had no trouble with mine nice and stable too.
Soldato
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Pinch the tubing.
Soldato
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Use a T-line instead of a res. Don't use a fill-port. This way the T-line can be kept vertical no matter what way up the case is.
The T-line is slightly abnormal but it works for me. The top of the T is closed off but only to prevent excess evaporation. If I need to lay the case flat, I simply secure the T-line so it remains vertical instead of turning with the case.
Nope, I've checked for that. Even had the loop running for a few hours, no bubbles (not plugged onto CPU etc). Soon as I whacked the iron onto one of the waterblocks and the loop started getting hot, bubbles - within the pump, which is after the waterblocks, and not coming from the radiator
