i5 Overclock

bulldog147 · 16 Jul 2011 at 22:10

I put mine on LLC Level 4 @ 1.32V and got stable 4.4GHz for 8 hours a few days ago and idle was 1.344V and under prime it went down to 1.284V with the rest on auto, just change the LLC and vcore that was it. Temp never get over 63C on core 2

LEK-89 · 16 Jul 2011 at 22:11

Plec said:
That really depends on you and what you want to get out of the chip.

But as you seemed quite happy with 4.4GHz and cool/silence seems key i would be temped to test 4.3GHz at auto voltages.

I know it's only dropping 100MHz but it could make all the difference.

Or you could try pumping 1.31V @ 4.4GHz as CPUz was only registering 1.27V(?) so you have room to maneuver.

I've dropped down to 4.3Ghz at auto voltages, CPU-Z is reporting at full load the voltage is 1.272v (same as 4.4Ghz on auto strangely?) and sometimes it goes down to 1.264v but bounces back up to 1.272v, I'm running prime again now. When I was on 4.4Ghz with the manual 1.30v CPU voltage, CPU-Z reported at full load the voltage was 1.288v.

Thanks Plec - Liam

Plec · 16 Jul 2011 at 22:25

I just want to make sure i understand the sequence of events...

bulldog147 said:
My SSD is windows 7 x64 bit with all drivers coming from my old EX58 UD5 board and I just put new board in and the i7 2600K and windows automatically found new hardwares and updated. I put Gigabyte CD in and updates all drivers, and checked all my hardwares in the system and all look good. Then few days later got BSD.

So when you got the Z68 you added the SSD, with an existing ex58 win 7 installed, without doing a fresh install?

bulldog147 said:
My HDD is a clean installed fresh of windows 7 on it with this new board and chip and had no issues.

Yet, you have no problems using a conventional HDD - even at 4.6GHz - using a fresh Win 7 install?

Have you tried doing a fresh Win 7 install on the SSD for the Z68 as it could be a software/corruption issue?

Plec · 16 Jul 2011 at 22:28

LEK-89 said:
I've dropped down to 4.3Ghz at auto voltages, CPU-Z is reporting at full load the voltage is 1.272v (same as 4.4Ghz on auto strangely?) and sometimes it goes down to 1.264v but bounces back up to 1.272v, I'm running prime again now.

Best of luck...

LEK-89 · 16 Jul 2011 at 22:38

Out of interest Plec,

Why did the test for me fail when on 4.4Ghz, even with the voltage set to auto? I don't quite understand - as when the voltage is set to auto, the motherboard decides the best voltage to run at doesn't it? If 4.4Ghz required more volts when set to auto, then why didn't it get bumped up to 1.31v on it's own?

Thanks - Liam

Plec · 16 Jul 2011 at 22:52

LEK-89 said:
Why did the test for me fail when on 4.4Ghz, even with the voltage set to auto? I don't quite understand - as when the voltage is set to auto, the motherboard decides the best voltage to run at doesn't it?

I'm afarid i can't give you a definitive answer to this - but essentially you're right - the MB is deciding/calculating from the info given from the CPU what is the best voltage to be applied at any given moment.

However, if it doesn't give enough juice at the exact required time the system will crash. And it could be that it's pre-determined/variable voltage was never going to enough - it's essentially an educated guess with the data it has.

Usually, they pump too much juice in (over compensate) so your results are a little surprising - but not worrying.

I shoud have asked earlier - what is your complete spec?

LEK-89 · 16 Jul 2011 at 22:58

Aahhh ok I get what you mean. If this now goes through Prime95 sucessfully for a few hours or overnight, shall I leave the voltage set to auto on 4.3Ghz for 24/7 use?

Core i5 2500K
MSI P67A-GD53 (latest 1.C BIOS)
8GB HyperX Genesis 1600Mhz
CoolerMaster CM690-II Lite
XFX 650W XXX Edition
BeQuiet Dark Rock Advanced
GTX570
Seagate Barracuda 1TB 7200.12
Sony DVD-RW

Liam

bulldog147 · 16 Jul 2011 at 23:08

Plec said:
I just want to make sure i understand the sequence of events...

So when you got the Z68 you added the SSD, with an existing ex58 win 7 installed, without doing a fresh install?

Yet, you have no problems using a conventional HDD - even at 4.6GHz - using a fresh Win 7 install?

Have you tried doing a fresh Win 7 install on the SSD for the Z68 as it could be a software/corruption issue?

Going to try a fresh windows 7 installing tomorrow after hdderase secure on SSD first. See if it was stable at 4.6GHz

I have to download all gigabyte latest driver for 64 bit onsite tomorrow before I do the SSD.

Plec · 16 Jul 2011 at 23:10

LEK-89 said:
If this now goes through Prime95 sucessfully for a few hours or overnight, shall I leave the voltage set to auto on 4.3Ghz for 24/7 use?

If you're happy with 4.3GHz and your load voltage is ~1.27V and idles at ~0.99V then, yes, as you've essentially reached the clock you were after (minus 100MHz) and you've got the idle voltage benefit.

You know from experimenting that 4.4GHz (with basic setting) will not run under 1.3V so 4.3GHz at 1.27V with idle voltage benefits seems like a good compromise.

LEK-89 said:
Core i5 2500K
MSI P67A-GD53 (latest 1.C BIOS)
8GB HyperX Genesis 1600Mhz
CoolerMaster CM690-II Lite
XFX 650W XXX Edition
BeQuiet Dark Rock Advanced
GTX570
Seagate Barracuda 1TB 7200.12
Sony DVD-RW

That's a very tidy spec.

How have you got your CPU and system fans setup in the BIOS? (they may be running at full pelt - even at idle if yo haven't adjusted the fan settings)

bulldog147 · 16 Jul 2011 at 23:15

To be honest it sound rather odd.....
4.3GHz on auto (idle at 0.97v) and under load it between 1.27v and 1.28v)

Now on 4.4 (100MHz extra) and auto will not work, failed, set vcore at 1.29v on LLC Level 6 and idle was 1.34v and under load was between 1.32 and 1.33v. The auto will not let 1.29v-1.30v because it need more vcore mean poor chip which it such a shame!

I don't understand why all the fake reviews saying all sandybridge chip was easy to get 4.4 on auto which it totally lies and untrue!

LEK-89 · 16 Jul 2011 at 23:16

From what I remember reading before I purchased the parts, the BeQuiet cooler does not have it's own regulated fan setting - it connects directly to the motherboard and relies on what setting the motherboard gives it. From what I have experienced though, it seems to run at 100% all the time, even when idle. I don't mind though, as it only runs at 1500rpm and it is very, very quiet.

Definately the quietest CPU cooler I have ever used and with the temps I have been getting with OC'ing, I would recommend this cooler again. Indeed it may not be the best cooler for when OC'ing but say for someone else doing non-extreme OC'ing like me, it definately is more than adequate for the job.

Bulldog - the only explanation I could give regarding what you said is that your using a Gigabyte board. Just saying, as I am using an MSI board.

Liam

Plec · 16 Jul 2011 at 23:17

bulldog147 said:
Going to try a fresh windows 7 installing tomorrow after hdderase secure on SSD first. See if it was stable at 4.6GHz

That would seem the most logical step given the symptoms and the direct comparison to the hdd with a fresh install.

Hopefully, the clean install with resolve your issues. Post back when you've completed your install and tested for stability as i would be interested in your results.

Best of luck.

bulldog147 · 16 Jul 2011 at 23:18

Plec said:
That would seem the most logical step given the symptoms and the direct comparison to the hdd with a fresh install.

Hopefully, the clean install with resolve your issues. Post back when you've completed your install and tested for stability as i would be interested in your results.

Best of luck.

Will do but I hate to do all windows updates online all over again, installing flash player etc!

Plec · 16 Jul 2011 at 23:25

LEK-89 said:
>snip<

You should still be able to set fan speed through the MB.

As you have a MSI P67A *** - you can set the percentage of the fans speed in the BIOS via "CPU SMART FAN TARGET" (you can also do this with the case fans) - it will then only increase the fan speed if it goes over the dictated temperature that you input when setting up fan speed.

E.g. I've set my CPU fan speed to 50% (silent) and input a temperature of 60 degrees for the fan to start to spin to full speed. The only time it starts to do this is if i'm stress testing the CPU otherwise it's spinning silently at half it's optimum speed. Once the temps drop below 60 degrees the CPU fan then drops back to 50%.

Basically, my system is silent thanks to this setting.

LEK-89 · 16 Jul 2011 at 23:29

Plec said:
You should still be able to set fan speed through the MB.

As you have a MSI P67A *** - you can set the percentage of the fans speed in the BIOS via "CPU SMART FAN TARGET" (you can also do this with the case fans) - it will then only increase the fan speed if it goes over the dictated temperature that you input when setting up fan speed.

E.g. I've set my CPU fan speed to 50% (silent) and input a temperature of 60 degrees for the fan to start to spin to full speed. The only time it starts to do this is if i'm stress testing the CPU otherwise it's spinning silently at half it's optimum speed. Once the temps drop below 60 degrees the CPU fan then drops back to 50%.

Basically, my system is silent thanks to this setting.

Thanks Plec, I may look into this tomorrow

Liam

Plec · 16 Jul 2011 at 23:37

bulldog147 said:
Will do but I hate to do all windows updates online all over again, installing flash player etc!

Additional: Did you update the SSD with the latest firmware?

If you didn't i would do this before you do your fresh install.

bulldog147 · 16 Jul 2011 at 23:38

Maybe we could try 103 x 43 that make it 4.4GHz and leave the rest on Auto, see if it stable ok ? Never try it myself yet thought

bulldog147 · 16 Jul 2011 at 23:39

Plec said:
Additional: Did you update the SSD with the latest firmware?

If you didn't i would do this before you do your fresh install.

I think mine is 1.23V OCZ Vertex2 SSD firmware last year

Plec · 17 Jul 2011 at 00:03

bulldog147 said:
I think mine is 1.23V OCZ Vertex2 SSD firmware last year

Your firmware is probably out of date if it hasn't been updated in the last year - and as your installing it in to a newly released motherboard (Z68) it's advisible to get the latest firmware to increase your chances of compatibilty (and help rule it out as the cause of stability issues).

A brief look at the OCZ websie for various Vertex 2 drives shows that you may be a few firmwares behind...

bulldog147 · 17 Jul 2011 at 00:04

I done it now, blimey cor me my firmware had now updated from 1.23v to 1.33v now! I try 4.6GHz now, if still BSD then a clean installing windows 7 tomorrow, where can I get the latest driver for Intel Rapid Storage from ?

Mine is Intel driver 10.5.0.1026