Installing a H100i - Fan direction question

azibux1 · 8 Apr 2014 at 12:01

phate1337 said:
Something to do first will be to create your own fan profile which is linked to heat of the cpu. Decide what the loudest speed you are comfortable running them at by either selecting fixed speed rpm or % and then create a custom fan profile with that as the top level and step it down as you see fit. I have my h100i run at a highest point of 2000rpm at 60 degrees but naturally, that is my setup it probably won't be the same for you! If you do this and you still don't like the temps, pull the cpu block off and check that the thermal paste has markings indicative of a good fitting. Also check the block orientation on your processor aa this can have a big affect of Cooling.
Regards

Okay thanks I'll take a look at tweaking the profiles in the software

In general though, I just stuck it on max RPM as a test, just doing web browsing, and it has been on for around 10 miuntes like that, currently on about 37-40 degrees... Does that sound about right to you? I just don't want to take the block off, then have to re-apply paste etc if this is as good as it will perform anyway

And just to confirm, this is how I set it up (arrows show fan airflow), I think I understood your explanation correctly

Thanks!

EDIT: Going to do some more cable management later, I may take it off and apply some arctic silver paste instead

azibux1 · 10 Apr 2014 at 13:41

Hi!

Am I correct in saying that the pump speed doesn't/shouldn't change at all, regardless of how fast fans are spinning?

When my fans spin up to a certain speed (possibly just one fan, I'm still diagnosing) I can hear a slight rattle (hard to explain).

But I'm just wondering is this the fan itself or the pump... I think the pump remains at a certain noise level regardless of whatever is happening?

darrenkarp · 19 Apr 2014 at 18:19

azibux1 said:
Okay thanks I'll take a look at tweaking the profiles in the software

In general though, I just stuck it on max RPM as a test, just doing web browsing, and it has been on for around 10 miuntes like that, currently on about 37-40 degrees... Does that sound about right to you? I just don't want to take the block off, then have to re-apply paste etc if this is as good as it will perform anyway

And just to confirm, this is how I set it up (arrows show fan airflow), I think I understood your explanation correctly

Thanks!

EDIT: Going to do some more cable management later, I may take it off and apply some arctic silver paste instead

Did you add arctic silver? What were the results like as I'm thinking of doing the same.

azibux1 · 19 Apr 2014 at 18:21

Haven't got round to it yet

phate1337 · 19 Apr 2014 at 19:27

Hey. The pump speed sgouldnt change much it should be around 2000-2200 rpm. When I am next on my rig that has my h100i in I will take a screenshot of my corsair link setup. You can set it to change the fan speeds in relation to the cpu temp instead of the coolant temp which is the default by putting the cpu in the same group as the fans I think. The temps look good by the way. Run it for a few weeks before considering replacing the TIM. Also try prolimatech pk-3 instead of AS5. I did and I haven't looked back! No cure time and better temps. Only thing is you want to soak the tube in warm water for a few minutes before using it to make the liquid a bit more usable.

azibux1 · 19 Apr 2014 at 20:17

phate1337 said:
Hey. The pump speed sgouldnt change much it should be around 2000-2200 rpm. When I am next on my rig that has my h100i in I will take a screenshot of my corsair link setup. You can set it to change the fan speeds in relation to the cpu temp instead of the coolant temp which is the default by putting the cpu in the same group as the fans I think. The temps look good by the way. Run it for a few weeks before considering replacing the TIM. Also try prolimatech pk-3 instead of AS5. I did and I haven't looked back! No cure time and better temps. Only thing is you want to soak the tube in warm water for a few minutes before using it to make the liquid a bit more usable.

Hi!

Okay yeah that will be good thanks

I did set it too CPU load temporarily but that is too erratic and changes too regularly. I think it is currently on water temp.

I may not change the TIM just now then if you think the temps are fine, I think they may just 'look' high as the CPU is overclocked. I was expecting a drop in temps compared to my air cooler (gelid tranquillo) but maybe that was a good air cooler so I can't see much difference

Thanks for the info with regards to TIM though, will purchase the prolimatech instead if I decide to change it

phate1337 · 19 Apr 2014 at 20:30

Regarding the temps, just bear in mind the tjmax for your chip. The idle temp won't be much lower than on air but the load temps should be better. My 2500k at 5.2ghz hit 86 degrees using ibt on a h80(non-i). My 3570k rig hits around 75 degrees at 4.5ghz with my h100i. Haven't played much with my new rig yet but that is using. Complete customer loop.

azibux1 · 24 Apr 2014 at 00:33

phate1337 said:
Regarding the temps, just bear in mind the tjmax for your chip. The idle temp won't be much lower than on air but the load temps should be better. My 2500k at 5.2ghz hit 86 degrees using ibt on a h80(non-i). My 3570k rig hits around 75 degrees at 4.5ghz with my h100i. Haven't played much with my new rig yet but that is using. Complete customer loop.

tjmax is 98 which I've luckily never got near

Alright nice! Thanks for the temps. Out of interest are they with stock paste? Or prolimatech?

Damo667 · 24 Apr 2014 at 02:23

I have the fractal case and I had to fit the 240 rad in the roof with the inlet/outlet at the rear as it hit the optical drive bay the other way round.

azibux1 · 24 Apr 2014 at 02:25

Damo667 said:
I have the fractal case and I had to fit the 240 rad in the roof with the inlet/outlet at the rear as it hit the optical drive bay the other way round.

Yeah I had to end up doing the same

Didn't want to initially as I though the pipes would come down 'infront' of the nice lit up block, but they don't so it is okay

haha

Damo667 · 24 Apr 2014 at 02:32

I really like the fractal case tho for the price the watercooling options and features are excellent. Glad you got it sorted tho. I need to rearrange my fans they're by no means in the optimal configuration haha.

azibux1 · 24 Apr 2014 at 02:33

Yeah it is a really nice case I think!

In the end I went with:

2 x 120mm intake on the front
1 x 120mm exhaust on the back
2 x 120mm exhaust on the top (radiator fans, above the radiator, pulling air)
1 x 140mm intake (fractal silent series fan that comes with case) on the bottom infront of the PSU

ocmanus · 25 Apr 2014 at 16:21

I'd be interested to know, does the intake at the bottom make much difference in your setup?

azibux1 said:
Yeah it is a really nice case I think!

In the end I went with:

2 x 120mm intake on the front
1 x 120mm exhaust on the back
2 x 120mm exhaust on the top (radiator fans, above the radiator, pulling air)
1 x 140mm intake (fractal silent series fan that comes with case) on the bottom infront of the PSU

azibux1 · 25 Apr 2014 at 16:25

Bit busy at the moment but I might test it out one day with the fan on different speeds to see if it makes any difference. I just thought it will help bring in a bit more air, and push any hot air up out of the case

But hot air rises anyway, so it's only use may be to bring in a bit more air

It is only the fan that came with the case and doesn't seem to push much air even on full power through, think it is only 1000RPM (or maybe a bit more) max

Davanius · 26 Apr 2014 at 09:43

I spent yesterday installing the h100i. I previously had the h100 for over two years and used the fans as an intake during that time due to the 690 ii case being tight above the motherboard. It was only during the last week that I changed them to exhaust through the rad after managing to squeeze it all in.

I saw no real difference in cpu temps using the older h100 as an exhaust but I did notice a drop in motherboard and gpu temps by a few degrees. I have a custom cooled gpu though with the side fan as an exhaust. So it seems that it's better for other components to exhaust the hot air out through the rad imo.

One thing I will say about the h100i is that it keeps my cpu 8-10c cooler with less noise than the h100. I have installed the sp120 pwm performance fans which are controlled by the motherboard to run at 1250 rpm at idle to 1450 rpm at load resulting in a max temp of 67c during prime on a 2600k @ 4.5 ghz, 1.350v and that's just on one core. The other cores were 60-62c with a room temp of about 23c. The older h100 was hitting 76 on the hottest core.

I installed the corsair link only to changed the led color and did not upgrade the firmware when prompted as the unit is running silently. I removed corsair link and the usb cable so now there is only one wire coming out of the pump. I have corsair quiet edition af fans on the case and now the pc is as quiet as I have ever heard it.

snips86x · 26 Apr 2014 at 10:00

phate1337 said:
Something to do first will be to create your own fan profile which is linked to heat of the cpu. Decide what the loudest speed you are comfortable running them at by either selecting fixed speed rpm or % and then create a custom fan profile with that as the top level and step it down as you see fit. I have my h100i run at a highest point of 2000rpm at 60 degrees but naturally, that is my setup it probably won't be the same for you! If you do this and you still don't like the temps, pull the cpu block off and check that the thermal paste has markings indicative of a good fitting. Also check the block orientation on your processor aa this can have a big affect of Cooling.
Regards

The custom fan profile is not linked to the CPU temp but the temp of the coolant. Depending on the coolant temp, the RPM will obviously change. I had a similar question when I installed mine, this was confirmed by the Corsair rep on this forum.

If you are running the Corsair fans from the H100i, you will get better control over the speed compapred to the motherboard. Mine idle at 400rpm with a custom profile in Corsair Link 2.

azibux1 · 26 Apr 2014 at 16:14

Hmm I'll have to have a mess around and tweak the profile maybe... But I think I may also need to re apply the block

I have an i5 2500K overclocked to 4GHz (just upped the multiplier, didn't touch voltage) and with all fans on max RPM, I still saw temperatures of above 70 with the H100i

I will test again and confirm this, but if it is the case, would you say the block should be re applied? I also have some Prolimatech PK3 now too

Mads1 · 26 Apr 2014 at 16:47

azibux1 said:
Hmm I'll have to have a mess around and tweak the profile maybe... But I think I may also need to re apply the block

I have an i5 2500K overclocked to 4GHz (just upped the multiplier, didn't touch voltage) and with all fans on max RPM, I still saw temperatures of above 70 with the H100i

I will test again and confirm this, but if it is the case, would you say the block should be re applied? I also have some Prolimatech PK3 now too

i took the pre-applied tim off and replaced with artic mx4 seems to work for me, ive a i7 4770k @4.6 1.25v on idle 22-28 across cores and load running prime95 64-69 hope this helps, but it cant do any harm in re-sitting the block.
and also i keep my fans at a constant rpm as i tested the fans at higher rpm on load and only saw a couple of degree's difference, h100i fans at 600rpm enermax cluster advance, fronts enermax silence at 500rpm and rear 3x80mm enermax silence at 450rpm, controlled by pwm via motherboard command programme.

phate1337 · 27 Apr 2014 at 18:00

Look out for the cpu voltage. If you just upped the multi then chances are the voltage is on auto and may be pulling far more than it needs. If you are going to apply your pk-3 then can I recommend that you soak the tube in warm water a while to make the paste easier to work with. Also, I use the rice grain method with those chips and coolers. Make sure you do the grain in the same direction as the die underneath the heatsink. Also, check that you have orientated the block in the correct direction! You want to be looking for around 65c if you can. Some chips do run hot so don't despair if you can't chill it down. Don't just give up though. I didn't with my 2500k and ended up getting it stable at 5.2ghz without breaking 85c

azibux1 · 27 Apr 2014 at 23:38

phate1337 said:
Look out for the cpu voltage. If you just upped the multi then chances are the voltage is on auto and may be pulling far more than it needs. If you are going to apply your pk-3 then can I recommend that you soak the tube in warm water a while to make the paste easier to work with. Also, I use the rice grain method with those chips and coolers. Make sure you do the grain in the same direction as the die underneath the heatsink. Also, check that you have orientated the block in the correct direction! You want to be looking for around 65c if you can. Some chips do run hot so don't despair if you can't chill it down. Don't just give up though. I didn't with my 2500k and ended up getting it stable at 5.2ghz without breaking 85c

I'm fairly sure the voltage is on auto... In short, what's the best way to work out a suitable voltage? Slowly lower it until you see issues? Then back up a tiny bit? But how do you find out where to start from?

Sorry for all the questions, I just went for a simple overclock when I did it by upping the multiplier

Just for info, currently typing this out I'm on 1.320v

Thanks for the tips too, couple more questions if you don't mind haha:

1. With regards to soaking the TIM tube, never done that before, I guess no water gets in if you stand the syringe face down in hot water, just make sure no water gets in the 'top' of the syringe (towards the handle)?

2. What do you mean by going the same direction as the die? I've never heard that term before so I'm not sure what the die is?

Thanks!