Insulating single brick extension

[ScoobyDoo]

Purchased a new property a year ago and steadily getting through the refurb.
All of downstairs is now done apart from the utility room which is a single brick extension with a seperate toilet area.

Whats an economic way to insulate the single brick walls?. The room will be heated with a gas central heating radiator. Only one wall in the utility is single birck, approx 12ft long and one wall in the toilet only 5ft wide.

I was thinking.

1) Cover walls in damp proof membrane
2) Batton
3) Put polystyrene sheet insulation between battons , something like Celotex Insulation Board
4) Plasterboard
5) Skim

I dont want to loose too much from the width of the room and dont want a costly job, one that i can do myself.

 

[Nedved11]

Your idea is what I would do, you have few options really the other is external insulation which isn't cheap.

 

[bitslice]

The vapour barrier goes on the warm side of the insulation, ie under the plasterboard.

50mm Fibreglass batts would be cheaper

 

[Mark A]

What about the plasterboard that has the insulation and vapour barrier built in? Might be more expensive but you eliminate any cold bridging via the batons and it would make the job a lot faster and easier.

http://www.planetinsulation.co.uk/ZPL4025.php

 

[Nightglow]

What about the plasterboard that has the insulation and vapour barrier built in? Might be more expensive but you eliminate any cold bridging via the batons and it would make the job a lot faster and easier.

http://www.planetinsulation.co.uk/ZPL4025.php

Best way, use 25x50mm batten, I have used tile batten in the past, but you can now get 25x50mm Carcassing timber , both are tanalised, completed thickness would be around 65mm.

I would also paint the inside of the wall with one or two coats of Synthaprufe or similar damp proofing emulsion, it will give you a damp proof and vapour proof membrane.

 

[pitchfork]

Batten out, insulation, insulating board, skim.

I wouldn't use a DPM at all.

 

[Nightglow]

Couldn't think of the name earlier, just came to me, look at 'Marmox Multiboard', maybe be easier than plasterboard, plus you can use a thinner sheet & save space.
I have use them for drylining, waterproofing & insulating cellars, you can get them in various thicknesses from 12.7mm upwards, better than plasterboard.

Dot & dab combine with Marmox Fixing Dowels is my usual way, then tape joints, & skim with a coat of plaster.

http://www.insulationexpress.co.uk/Product.asp?gclid=CKT7_Ln33LwCFQkFwwodgSYACA#nogo

You might have a Minster Insulation branch near you, they should stock it.

http://www.minsteronline.co.uk/

 

[pitchfork]

Wouldn't dot and dab straight on to single skin, that's asking for trouble.

 

[Nightglow]

Wouldn't dot and dab straight on to single skin, that's asking for trouble.

I have done in the past, a easy way to level up the sheet, before fixing with the dowels.

But, I would still batten the wall first, after it's had a couple of coats of a damp proofing emulsion, to give it damp proof and vapour proof membrane.

 

[a1ex2001]

Wouldn't dot and dab straight on to single skin, that's asking for trouble.

What makes you say that? Genuine interest as I've done it in the past onto solid brick walls admittedly most were double brick.

 

[pitchfork]

damp proofing emulsion

This doesn't exist, do you mean bitumen?

What makes you say that? Genuine interest as I've done it in the past onto solid brick walls admittedly most were double brick.

It's about equilibrium.

On a single skin, if you leave it as is, it'll do as was intended (even if it is a bit cold) if you render the outside and inside it will keep the rain out, if you render it on the inside only it gets damp on the inside. The same applies to PB adhesive.

You should always dryline on single skins.

 

[Nightglow]

Damp proof emulsion.

This doesn't exist, do you mean bitumen?

I have use that term for 30 years, what is Everbuild 908 DPM Bitumen Emulsion then, & Feb Aquaseal Hyprufe DPM, Synthaprufe?
They all are rubber/bitumen liquid emulsion products.

http://www.everbuild.co.uk/roofer?product_id=243

To a lot of people they think bitumen is a thick tar like substance.

 

[Mark A]

I'd be worried that adding a damp proofing layer to the brick would allow water to condense on the surface behind the insulation.

 

[john_s]

I'd be worried that adding a damp proofing layer to the brick would allow water to condense on the surface behind the insulation.

That would be my biggest concern too.

 

[pitchfork]

If you were to add a dpm you'd need to leave an air gap between it and the wall.

 

[mattyg]

Batten with DPM behind, Clelotex, board and skim.

 

[ScoobyDoo]

Thanks for all the replies, so best option is to DPM wall, batten, insulation, board and skim?
Or forget the DPM all together? I've ripped the old board off the wall and they did DPM, batten and board, no insulation apart from a bit of rockwool.

 

[Duo]

I know this comment is going to dig up an old post and I apologise for that but I just gotta say how amazed I am that this forum covers such a wide range of topics that I find myself also interested in.

I originally signed up for PC building/modding related reasons but often when I google something random I find myself here again reading posts by members of this forum that are often very informative and either solve my query straight away or provide me with a solid foundation to get myself started on whatever topic it may be...this time it's insulating a single skin brick building but it could be anything.

I wonder if anybody reading this has had a similar experience of finding wisdom for topics they wouldn't typically expect to find on this forum? ... Perhaps asking this question is worthy of its own separate post...

 

[topgun06]

Got to agree! Awesome forum. And coincidentally, the topic of this thread is very relevant to me right now.

 

[topgun06]

So, how did you get on @ScoobyDoo ?