Internal door smaller than frame

[MatteH Oxford]

Because you would still have the clearance gap between the door and frame.
Putting it on top of the door takes the top of the door back into the rebate.

Of course, but sticking a bit on the top of the door would look crap unless it was done properly and painted afterwards. Moving the door up would probably make the gap at the bottom massive. This is a rented property we're talking about, if it was owned then I'm sure the op would want a new door and the job fixed properly.

The way I suggested is the quickest & easiest for someone who perhaps doesn't have the best DIY skills to just get rid of the actual gap. And yes, it's a bodge I'm well aware, I am a carpenter by trade. As it happens I'm making solid hardwood doors for one of my clients at their manor house I'm currently working at.

 

[Burned_Alive]

Of course, but sticking a bit on the top of the door would look crap unless it was done properly and painted afterwards. Moving the door up would probably make the gap at the bottom massive. This is a rented property we're talking about, if it was owned then I'm sure the op would want a new door and the job fixed properly.

Surely attaching a section to the door would make more sense due to the very nature of how a door works? He can then put draft foam around the frame and seal the whole door, if required.

Wouldn't your method still leave a direct gap (easy for air to flow through) between door and frame, despite reducing that gap?

 

[dholdi]

I think we are all agreed that all the methods discussed are bodges to one extent apart from the suggestion to fit a new door.
Its down to the op to decide which is the easiest to implement.
Nice doors MatteH, what furious RS do you run ?

 

[MatteH Oxford]

Surely attaching a section to the door would make more sense due to the very nature of how a door works? He can then put draft foam around the frame and seal the whole door, if required.

Wouldn't your method still leave a direct gap (easy for air to flow through) between door and frame, despite reducing that gap?

Not if the piece fitted to the top door stop sits below the top of the door, the back top edge of the door would just sit against the extended stop like a correctly fitted door would.

Rough photo shop job, dotted line is piece extending below & behind the top of the door:

Nice doors MatteH, what furious RS do you run ?

None, I trained as a MV technician years ago and worked for Ford for a while. Got my papers and done lots of other things since then.
The sig isn't serious, just a bit of sillyness tbh

 

[Burned_Alive]

Not if the piece fitted to the top door stop sits below the top of the door, the back top edge of the door would just sit against the extended stop like a correctly fitted door would.

Rough photo shop job, dotted line is piece extending below & behind the top of the door:

I see what you mean now, essentially extending the door stop vertically. I think I would still prefer to extend the door due to the gap. Obviously up to the OP though!

 

[MatteH Oxford]

I often have to reuse doors on refurbishments of listed property, especially external doors.

The "proper" way to do the job is to remove the door and its hinges, plane to suit if required, splice timber in the hinge cut outs, re-cut them in the correct positions and then splice a piece on the bottom of the door. The bottom rail is usually substantially bigger than the top, so you can get away with cutting off a couple of inches then slicing a decent sized piece of timber in and fix it with glue + 100mmm screws countersunk through the bottom side.

Sometimes you have to remove the whole bottom rail so here you have to counter bore the holes so the screw head sits in the hole bottom a couple of inches belwo the bottom of the timber face to ensure the screws go through into the vertical rails. 150mm screws are handy here!