Iridium or Standard plugs?

I actually found that copper were smoother than iridium. The iridium ones are supposed to last longer but I prefer to save the money, get copper and change them more regularly.
 
I found some NGK iridium ones on the bay for very little more than what the copper ones were going for so put those in my Fazer 1000 and haven't looked back. Can't say I noticed any difference in performance/smoothness. My preference is a bigger initial outlay if it results in savings in the long run so I will stick with the Iridiums and their 20-30k mile lifespan.
 
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I went for the iridium in the end £27.15 for 4,i don't think ive changed them in atleast 9/10 years:eek:
 
I keep getting it cut out if idling a long time,or when pulling away,then its hard to start

if I wait 10-20 seconds it will start,its deffo flooding,high speed its fine but just at idle,im hoping its a dodgy plug/plugs probably check the stand and clutch cut out switches but aint had time atm

only last three days its been doing it
 
Pull the plugs and check the colour of them, if they're black then as you say there's too much fuel. If so new plugs won't fix a fueling problem.
 
wazza300 said:
I keep getting it cut out if idling a long time,or when pulling away,then its hard to start

if I wait 10-20 seconds it will start,its deffo flooding,high speed its fine but just at idle,im hoping its a dodgy plug/plugs probably check the stand and clutch cut out switches but aint had time atm

only last three days its been doing it
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Could be the caps are not properly pushed all the way on to the plugs, also if the caps screw into the HT leads try making sure they are tight.
 
If running Iridium plugs on any bike, one thing to keep firmly in mind is to set the gap larger than that stated for the standard plugs that come with the bike. Iridium plugs have a much smaller electrode than a standard plug, so they will initiate a spark at a much lower voltage. Increasing the gap brings the required spark voltage back in line with that outputted from the coils. It also gives a longer a bigger spark than any standard plug would supply. This is then what gives better throttle response and smoother running. Those that just set the gap as stated in their bike manual are not using the full potential that swapping to Iridium plugs should give them.
The recommended gap for Denso Iridium plugs in my Ducati 1098s is 0.035 inch, in fact running them at 0.04 inch is much better all round than the standard gap.
 
never heard of those plugs shaken, but look good to me

just this minute finished changing the plugs(why do they make it so tight? cant swing a ratchet)

the air filter decided to fall apart also:( so put a ladies tights leg over it for now till I can get a new one;)

started up great without any choke so that's a good sign,wont know for sure till I take it for a spin,probably later or tomorrow
 
kitfit1 said:
If running Iridium plugs on any bike, one thing to keep firmly in mind is to set the gap larger than that stated for the standard plugs that come with the bike. Iridium plugs have a much smaller electrode than a standard plug, so they will initiate a spark at a much lower voltage. Increasing the gap brings the required spark voltage back in line with that outputted from the coils. It also gives a longer a bigger spark than any standard plug would supply. This is then what gives better throttle response and smoother running. Those that just set the gap as stated in their bike manual are not using the full potential that swapping to Iridium plugs should give them.
The recommended gap for Denso Iridium plugs in my Ducati 1098s is 0.035 inch, in fact running them at 0.04 inch is much better all round than the standard gap.
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It'll be interesting to test this theory on an ignition scope, I might do some tests in the new year with my Vantage Pro scope.

I've just kept the gaps standard width using iridium plugs, my bike runs perfectly. I bought them for service life rather than for performance benefits.
 
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